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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton Time+Tide
Oct 20, 2021

Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton

Custom. A word rarely used in the world of horology. The watches we wear, by and large, are the results of someone else’s designs. Someone else’s passions. We buy into their vision of what works. And even when we do have a say, as one may see with a piece unique, we’re still limited to … ContinuedThe post Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too) Time+Tide
Zenith Oct 18, 2021

We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too)

Andrew’s note: Hi, and greetings from Neuchâtel, Switzerland! It’s not like I needed to prove that I’m here (after all, Zenith totally outed me on their Instagram with a super-fun interview with me and CEO Julien Tornare), but it’s more a case of being so stoked about it, I’m taking every chance to catch it … ContinuedThe post We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition Quill & Pad
Oct 8, 2021

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition

Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!

Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
Aug 27, 2021

Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer

After Bernhard Lederer unveiled his impressive double-wheel escapement wristwatch last year, it was radio silence until now. As it turns out, Mr Lederer was working on refining the Central Impulse Chronometer, which is now being launched in its final, serial-production form. The new watch is essentially the same watch, but with a new and improved dial. The movement remains the same: equipped with a double-wheel escapement featuring twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism – making it one of the serious chronometers in modern horology. Entirely revised is the dial, which now has more elegant design, with slim hour markers framing a chequerboard guilloche centre. And the dial now incorporates gains a symmetrical, figure-of-eight aperture that showcases the twin escapements and remontoirs, with each having its own seconds hand – both turning in the opposite direction. Initial thoughts The CIC is one of the relatively rare wristwatches to incorporate a double-wheel escapement. But what makes the CIC uncommon is its execution – its escapement is powered by twin individual going trains – a construction famously conceived by George Daniels for his pocket watches, most notably the Space Traveller’s Watch. Bernhard Lederer at his bench The degree of miniaturisation to fit such a construction into a watch puts the CIC amongst an exclusive class of timepieces that can be counted on one hand – made by George Daniels, Derek ...

OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?” Time+Tide
Aug 12, 2021

OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?”

We’ve all heard the line “Does my bum look big in this” on cheesy TV sitcoms and yet I’ve never heard a woman say this in real life. What I do see on a regular basis is men asking “Does this look small on me?” while showing off watches that are, if anything, usually too … ContinuedThe post OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Bamford x Revolution GMT Joe Cool will light you up with smiles (and a shed-ton of lume) Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2021

VIDEO: The Bamford x Revolution GMT Joe Cool will light you up with smiles (and a shed-ton of lume)

Imagine an amalgamation of James Dean and the Fonz pepped up with some Bryan Ferry elan and Steve McQueen swagger.  Sure, that’s a formidable combination, but it would still be eclipsed by the unflappable Snoopy when he casually slots on his sunglasses and transforms into the one and only Joe Cool. Now as a tribute … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bamford x Revolution GMT Joe Cool will light you up with smiles (and a shed-ton of lume) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Revolution
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Jun 29, 2021

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch SJX Watches
Jun 24, 2021

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...

Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. Time+Tide
Casio GMWB5000RD-4 While supposedly red Jun 24, 2021

Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids.

Feel free to judge me. After reading my story on wanting a demure 36mm Carrera reissue in 18K gold on a leather strap, you might think I’m losing my marbles buying this dazzling all-metal purple G-Shock, the CasioGMWB5000RD-4. While supposedly red, close-up it’s a vibrant flash of mad purple-ish burgundy. And boy does it it … ContinuedThe post Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video) Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank Talk Jun 14, 2021

Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video)

Martin Green had the pleasure of participating in the Cartier #TankTalk with George Cramer, which saw Cartier's Amsterdam boutique staff sharing experiences selling these watches on a daily basis and George and Martin sharing how they perceive the different models. This gave everyone more in-depth insights, strengthened by the presence of historic Tank models as well as the entire new Must collection.

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster It was only Jun 10, 2021

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster

It was only a couple of weeks ago that we spotted a rare Rolex Submariner on Antiques Roadshow, the valuation of which left its owner with tears in his eyes. The team at Antiques Roadshow have now served up another horological treat, with a gentleman bringing in his Omega Speedmaster for the experts to study … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future Time+Tide
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 1, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future

The Oristas out there eagerly anticipate the annual Oris Hölstein Edition, and the Big Crown is a beloved staple of the range. Recent additions have been strong with the new Caliber 400 making its Aquis debut, and the Big Crown cherry-candy delight of Fratello’s bronze-cased limited edition here. Despite the distinctive looks of the short-lugged … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium Launched May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...

Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration SJX Watches
Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration May 14, 2021

Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration

Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...

Hermès Debuts Sci-Fi Pop Art in Miniature Painting SJX Watches
Casio nally whimsical style Hermès May 12, 2021

Hermès Debuts Sci-Fi Pop Art in Miniature Painting

Defined by its refined and occasionally whimsical style, Hermès emphasises whimsy with the new Arceau Space Derby, which reinterprets the Space Derby scarves, repurposing the sci-fi motif as miniature paintings for the wrist. The Arceau Space Derby will be available in two sizes: the smaller 38 mm with a diamond bezel and pink opaline glass dial, as well as two larger 41 mm models with dials in aventurine glass. The small model is limited to 24 pieces, while only 12 each will be made of the large models. The smaller version with a pink opaline glass dial Initial thoughts I absolutely love the Arceau Space Derby. Hermès makes a diversity of goods, from leather to clothing to high-end homeware, but often sharing the same motifs that are typically appealing and original. So its habit of looking into its past designs for its wristwatches is brilliant. The illustrator of Space Derby, French comic artist Ugo Bienvenu, drew inspiration from 20th-century American comics for the derby set amongst the stars. Depicting a robot horse yet so sci-fi it’s not immediately obvious, the painting is both overt and subtle in its reference to the longstanding equestrian history of Hermès, which was was founded as a saddle maker. And that also explains the signature Arceau watch case, which has an asymmetrical outline inspired by a stirrup. Detail rendered spectacularly by hand The diamond-set, 38 mm variant is clearly for women, while the 41 mm versions are unisex. Between the two lar...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 29, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum

Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...

4 Rad Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Rado Apr 19, 2021

4 Rad Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now it's red's turn, which has the advantage of the richness of hues available. Here Martin Green looks at 4 new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage Time+Tide
Longines are quietly having another Apr 16, 2021

Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage

There has been a huge amount of attention paid to Longines’ new Spirit Collection since it was launched. And rightly so. It offers a contemporary and value-packed new proposition right in the spot where buyers want it; which is a watch that can be a daily wearer that’s robust enough for most situations and well … ContinuedThe post Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.