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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend Time+Tide
Patek Philippe fiend Jimmy Carr Jan 12, 2021

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend

Jimmy Carr is one of my favourite comedians. His quick wit consistently incites belly laughs while his risqué punchlines are some of the best in the business. What’s less known about the British comedian is his incredible taste for watches, which he puts on full display throughout the comedy show Your Face or Mine that he … ContinuedThe post Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e SJX Watches
Minase Dec 11, 2020

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e

Set up only in 2005, Minase is a Japanese brand that excels in high-end cases, befitting a company that’s an offshoot of precision toolmaker Kyowa Co., which also manufactures watch cases and bracelets. The latest from Minase combines its top-of-the-line case making with artisanal craft – the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e has a traditional lacquer dial created collaboration by lacquer artist Megumi Shimamoto. Initial thoughts Exuding a Japanese character in how it combines cutting-edge technology with an ancient craft, the new Divide has a sharply-finished, angular case with an artisanal dial. As with all Minase watches, the case finishing is the most obvious highlight – not only is the case itself elaborate and multifaceted, but each of the surfaces has been finished to a high level with a flat polishing technique, resulting in well-defined breaks between brushed and polished planes. Resembling the robots of Japanese anime, the sleek is design interrupted by only one element, the oversized date window, which mars the purity of the lacquer dial. That said, the date wheel itself is done in good taste, being black with white print. Megumi Shimamoto carefully applies urushi to the dial with a finely-tipped brush In a world of uninspired, recycled watch designs, the Divido is a breath of fresh air – at a hefty price. With its well-executed case and Japanese lacquer dial, the new Divido costs a bit over 5,300 Swiss francs, a 63% premium over the version launc...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date

First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial. Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch). Initial thoughts Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well. While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists. Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers. The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1). The newer L086...

HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF37J Nov 28, 2020

HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese

I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes Nov 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a pitch-perfect, vintage-style diver. Yet somehow it’s failed to get the attention it deserves due, in part, because understatement is the name of its game. While the Rado Captain Cook turns heads with its lush colourways and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five makes noise with its ever-changing iterations, this bronze … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Oct 29, 2020

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount

Having recently ditched its takeover of Tiffany & Co. – citing looming US tariffs on French goods – LVMH has now done what many industry insiders long expected – clinching the deal at a lower price. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Bulgari will pay US$131.50 a share for the American jeweller, instead of the US$135 originally agreed. The discount is more modest than expected, slightly over 2%, which translates into savings of about US$400m, against a total deal value of about US$15.8 billion. The deal is expected to close in early 2021. Regardless of the price, Tiffany is an important addition to LVMH’s expansive stable of luxury brands. Although LVMH is the world’s largest biggest group by a large margin – its 2019 sales were €53.7 billion – it has a comparatively small presence in “hard” luxury, namely watches and jewellery. That segment now makes up less than 10% of its sales, but Tiffany will bulk it up significantly. In fact, the deal’s completion will mean that LVMH owns two of the three largest makers of branded jewellery – Tiffany and Bulgari.  

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF41J Oct 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective SJX Watches
Oct 18, 2020

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective

I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato.  The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking.  Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 6, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold

Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...

Piaget Introduces the Limelight Gala Automatic SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces Sep 25, 2020

Piaget Introduces the Limelight Gala Automatic

Originally a watchmaker, Piaget made its first foray in jewellery in the mid-20th century (which was also the period it debuted its ultra-thin movement, a feat Piaget has since surpassed by a large margin). One of its signature jewellery timepieces is the Limelight Gala, a quirky but elegant watch available only with a quartz movement, till now. Piaget has finally unveiled a mechanical version that preserves the same asymmetric style, the Limelight Gala Automatic. Initial thoughts While evening watches are often conveniently conceived as pick-up-and-go quartz accessories, a mechanical alternative is an intuitive addition to the line given the growing appreciation for old-school watches. Even though the cal. 501P inside the new Limelight Gala is a razor-thin movement of the likes found in the Altiplano automatic, it is small enough for a 32 mm case, larger than the traditionally-tiny norm for evening wear but still agreeable. The larger size, as well as the fact that the cal. 501P is a workhorse movement, making the new Limelight suitable as a daily-wear watch. That said, the cal. 501P is a workhorse – it’s also found in the entry-level and sporty Polo S – which means it doesn’t seem upscale enough for the higher-end versions of the Limelight, which costs a little over US$50,000. The new Limelight Gala is priced steeply, starting at from US$35,000 for the base model with a diamond-set bezel. The quintet The new mechanical Limelight Gala is largely similar to its qu...

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE

Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...

Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 31, 2020

Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02

A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish. As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring2 and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr. Initial thoughts Habring2 are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance. While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions. Vintage inspiration The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the si...

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Jul 30, 2020

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands.  So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world.  The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment.  To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...

Up Close: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Jun 17, 2020

Up Close: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic

Smart and original in design, the Octo Finissimo is extremely slim, well priced, and a strong seller for Bulgari, which has rolled out many iterations, including one in matte-black ceramic last year. Now Bulgari has added the shiny version to the line up with the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic. Initial thoughts The new Octo in all its glossy glory is ideal for anyone who found the original ceramic Octo flat and dull. But I prefer the matte version – the muted look very much suits the style of the watch. At the same time, polished ceramic, especially for a thin and lightweight watch, is too reminiscent of plastic. That aside, the technical appeal of the ceramic case and bracelet is the same as with the matte model. Both are constructed identically – simple and complex at the same time – differing only in the finish and colour. Though visually identical to the metal-alloy models, the ceramic Octo has an entirely different construction, which was a necessity due to the material. That’s an appealing factor in itself, because the watch was designed from the ground up as an all-ceramic watch; even the dial is ceramic. The new Octo Finissimo is light and smooth on the wrist. In fact, it is difficult to distinguish the tangible feel of the two ceramic versions from each other, and even from the titanium version. And like all other versions of the Octo, the new version wears well, with one caveat: wrists below a certain circumference don’t really sui...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Jun 9, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition

When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...

Baselworld officially cancelled for 2021, though MCH Group considering comeback via “follow-up formats”; journalists just pleased press releases will stop now Time+Tide
May 6, 2020

Baselworld officially cancelled for 2021, though MCH Group considering comeback via “follow-up formats”; journalists just pleased press releases will stop now

In what is surely, surely the last press release relating to the collapse of Baselworld, the MCH Group has announced that it has “taken the decision not to hold Baselworld in 2021”. Insert saddest ever meme here. The release also outlines the “amicable” end to a dispute over brands accessing refunds for this year’s cancelled … ContinuedThe post Baselworld officially cancelled for 2021, though MCH Group considering comeback via “follow-up formats”; journalists just pleased press releases will stop now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” Mar 16, 2020

Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407

One of the all-time best-selling Grand Seiko watches is the Spring Drive “Snowflake”, which gets the name from the its distinctive textured dial. And until recently, the snowflake dial was only available on models with bracelets, save for a few pricey limited editions with gold cases. That changed last year when Grand Seiko debuted the Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407. It combines the famous dial with a more classical case, and a good deal of practicality – date, Spring Drive accuracy, and a surprising 100 m water resistance. On the wrist While most Grand Seiko watches are pretty discreet on the wrist, the “Blue Snowflake” makes a statement due to its colour. The styling is most definitely old school, but the pale-blue dial is both modern and unusual; it’s an unorthodox colour for a man’s watch, especially one that leans towards the dress-watch category, but it works. And the “Blue Snowflake” is also a manageable but modern size. The case is a bit over 40 mm in diameter, and fairly thick, while the bezel is narrow. The result is a watch that wears well and has a good presence on the wrist (with one caveat that is common to Grand Seiko watches on straps: the band has odd proportions, with one side being unnecessarily long). The snowflake story The original “Snowflake” was the Grand Seiko Spring Drive ref. SBGA011 (now known as the SBGA211) that made its debut in 2005. While it did have a titanium case and bracelet, which was fairly uncommon a...

New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps Quill & Pad
Tutima Mar 14, 2020

New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps

Tutima Glashütte has launched two pretty colorful variations of the Grand Flieger Airport, one of the brand’s eight cornerstone collections. With their generous portions of pure pilot DNA, gradient dials in expressive green and blue hues and ceramic bezels, these day-date and chronograph watches are perfect for this spring's outdoor activities.

Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date Review WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Mar 11, 2020

Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date Review

“Beauty drives our decisions. In beauty, we find attraction, love even, which drives us to invest. We buy what we love. With a watch, that’s very true. Most often, the heart rules the head.” Those words are from Oris’s Joint Executive Officer; Rolf Studer. The brand celebrated a very important historical role of the Big Crown Pointer Date by giving the latest edition a solid bronze casing and a unique finish on the dial that makes each watch different from one another.  The original Big Crown Pointer Date played a significant role for Oris during the 1970s Quartz Crisis and the revival of the Swiss watch industry. When Oris decided to only build mechanical watches during the mid to late 1980s, the Big Crown Pointer Date was vital in this decision. The watch carried a presence of history and emotional value along with a driven purpose that many of the quartz-powered timepieces in the era of the Quartz Crisis couldn’t compete with. The Big Crown Pointer Date become a signature for not only Oris but also the revival of the mechanical Swiss watch from the Quartz Crisis.  In 1938, the creators of the Big Crown Pointer Date designed the watch so that it was well suited for the aviation industry. Timepieces that were designed in the early days for the aviation industry had to be easily readable at a glance so that pilots were able to do calculations quickly. They also needed to be easily adjustable while also being sturdy and reliable enough to withstand the turbulenc...

Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 5177 deserves Feb 5, 2020

Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look

Editor’s note: At a quick glance, the world of high-end dress watches appears relatively same-same, with the important qualities of each piece only coming to light under much closer inspection. Most dress watches will be time-only, offer a simple dial, and arrive on a leather strap, but as you look closer, you will notice the … ContinuedThe post Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.