Hodinkee
Breaking News: LVMH Watch Brands Leave Baselworld In The Wake Of Rolex, Patek Philippe, And Others
Yet another blow to the industry's oldest fair.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Business News: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith Ditch Baselworld
In a widely expected move, the watch and jewellery brands owned by LVMH – Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – have just announced their pullout from Baselworld. Once the world’s largest watch fair, Baselworld suffered a mortal blow when its largest individual exhibitors, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor, announced their withdrawal a few days ago, opting instead to move to a new fair in Geneva. And surprisingly the fair issued a swift, and clearly miffed, response to the mass exodus. But the die has been cast, with the centre of gravity having shifted decisively to Geneva, making it inevitable that the French luxury conglomerate would follow suit – especially after having made known its wavering commitment to Baselworld – and now it’s official. With the LVMH announcement, Baselworld has lost all the major exhibiting brands in Messe Basel hall 1, the fair’s flagship space. The chiefs of the LVMH watch and jewellery brands at LVMH Watch Week that took place in Dubai in January 2020, a stopgap measure due to the uncertain trade show schedule. Photo – LVMH In a statement fresh off the press, the LVMH Watch Division and Bulgari explain their move with the “clearly weakened representation of the Swiss watch industry and hence inevitably lower participation… [leading us to] withdraw in order to preserve [our] image and relations with clients as well with the media.” What the four brands will do in Geneva has not yet been decided, conti...
Revolution
The Importance of a Daily Routine in the Age of COVID-19
A breakdown of how our Founder spends his day in the age of COVID-19, and the essential role time, and watches, play in it.
SJX Watches
Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.
A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...
Time+Tide
Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases
When it rains it drips. And in April 2020, at a time when we need it most – our kingdom for some new watches to write about! – it drips technicolour divers, classic chronos and two absolute blue beauties. Seriously. Like blue dialled watches? Prepare yourself. In a case of simply weird timing, just a … ContinuedThe post Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith’s 2020 Collection for men, a flyover with CEO Julien Tornare
With the sell-out success of the Revolution ‘Cover Girl’ Limited Edition, and the astonishing Midnight Collection for women launched in January, Zenith are officially on a hot streak. When I put that to CEO Julien Tornare, just before we started rolling camera, he said something quite unforgettable. “When I took over [at Zenith] two and … ContinuedThe post Zenith’s 2020 Collection for men, a flyover with CEO Julien Tornare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 (Relatively) Affordable New Watches For 2020 From Oris, Hamilton, Rado, Longines, And Tissot
Here are five notable and (relatively) affordable timepieces that Nancy Olson hopes to experience firsthand soon and is pleased to highlight here for your pleasure.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor
When the Monta Oceanking arrived one day, I didn’t quite know what to make of it. Luckily, I was able to secure a phone interview with Justin Kraudel, the president of Monta. Mr Kraudel is as enthusiastic about watches as any of us (perhaps more so) and was eager to school me on Monta in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing The Breitling Navitimer Automatic 35
Breitling introduces the Navitimer in its smallest package ever, dedicated to women who want the perfect mix of style and tradition.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial
Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity. The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model. Smoky blue And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial. The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour. But unusually, the di...
SJX Watches
G-Shock Introduces the Full Metal ‘Grid’
Casio’s best selling G-Shock Full Metal – essentially the original G-Shock design of 1983 executed entirely in steel (or titanium) – is now available in yet another iteration. The G-Shock Full Metal ‘Grid’ (ref. GMW-B5000CS) is covered in a square-lattice motif that represents the “time tunnel that connects the past with the future”, a nod to the vintage inspiration of the Full Metal model. The case and bracelet are stainless steel that’s first finished with a black ion plating, and then laser engraved with the grid pattern, bringing to mind the laser-engraved pixel pattern on last year’s camouflage model. The laser not only light etches the surface, but also removes the black coating, revealing the steel substrate beneath. Both the case and bracelet are covered in the etched grid, with the motif continuing onto the crystal as a printed pattern, Aesthetics aside, the Full Metal ‘Grid’ is identical to the standard steel model. The case is the same size as well as weight, and contains the same electronic module that has the usual functions as well as smartphone connectivity via Bluetooth. It’s solar powered and charged via solar cells on the face; at full charge it’ll run almost two years with the power-saving function turned on. The screw-down case back also features the laser-engraved motif The Grid is priced at US$800, which is a step up compared to the US$550 for the entry-level black-coated model. That’s because it’s a limited-production s...
Time+Tide
Bid now on a Russian cosmonaut’s Omega Speedmaster, worn in space for 14 hours
Ever wanted to own an Omega Speedmaster that was actually worn in space? Is that the most rhetorical question you’ve ever heard? If so, a) get in line, and b) you’re in luck, because online auction house RR Auction are offering just that – an Omega Speedmaster that has slipped the bonds of terra firma … ContinuedThe post Bid now on a Russian cosmonaut’s Omega Speedmaster, worn in space for 14 hours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Baselworld Saga: MCH Group Responds, and a Bit of Background
Hours after the momentous but unsurprising exit from Baselworld by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor, the fair’s organiser, MCH Group, issued a strident response expressing “great surprise and equally great regret” at the brands’ departure, while noting that all the brands were privy to the discussions about “postponing” Baselworld 2020 to January next year. And MCH Group then took a swing at its former exhibitors, implying a long-planned conspiracy to depart Baselworld: “[We] must therefore conclude that the relevant plans [to leave Baselworld] have been in preparation for some time and that the discussions concerning the financial arrangements for the cancellation of Baselworld 2020 are now being put forward as an argument.” Memories of days past – the main hall of Baselworld 2019. Photo – Baselworld Unilateral decisions, and more According to insiders, however, the MCH Group statement is only half the story. Most crucial were the circumstances surrounding the negotiations for changing the date of Baselworld, once the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair, a status that likely buoyed MCH Group’s confidence to unsustainable levels. The major brands, led by exhibitors’ committee head Hubert J. du Plessix – who is also the chief of investments and logistics at Rolex – were amenable to postponing Baselworld to January 2021. Amongst the most vocal proponents for the move were the LVMH-owned brands, namely Bulgari, Hublot, TAG...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baselworld Update: Show’s Death Knell Sounds in the Departure of Rolex, Tudor, Chopard, Patek, and Chanel
While already fighting an uphill battle to stay alive, Baselworld's chances for survival just received another striking blow.
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor Pull Out of Baselworld
The unravelling of what was once the world’s largest watch and jewellery show has finally reached its unsurprising climax as the biggest exhibitors at Baselworld – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – have just announced their withdrawal from the event. Instead the all-important brands – Rolex is the world’s largest luxury watch brand by turnover – will decamp to Geneva to show their new products at a new, as-yet unnamed watch fair that will merge with Watches & Wonders (W&W;). In the announcement signed by representatives of all five brands, the departing brands cited the “unilateral decisions taken by the management of Baselworld, including the postponement of the Fair in January 2021, as well as its inability to meet the expectations and needs of brands” as reasons for their withdrawal. With that, the centre of gravity for watch trade shows will shift definitely to Geneva, and marking the end of Baselworld as a crucial event on the industry’s calendar. Not only does it call into question the viability of Baselworld, it might even be a mortal blow for the watch fair’s parent company, MCH Group, which also owns Art Basel. Hello Geneva What started with the Swatch Group’s shock exit from Baselworld in 2018 accelerated this year, with the show’s exhibitor’s committee, led by a senior Rolex executive, politely demanding a refund of fees paid for the cancelled 2020 show. The negotiations between exhibitors and fair organisers have ob...
Revolution
Zooming in With Cool-Dude-Filmmaker, Paul Feig
“Don’t spend the day in the clothes you slept in.” Revolution chats with filmmaker, Paul Feig on the importance of routines and of dressing yourself even while we’re all working from home.
Time+Tide
Andrew reveals five of his own watches in a Media Watch Death Match against Josh from Watchonista (and gets a slapping)
It started with an invitation to join Watchonista’s ‘Home Time Live’, a new series on Instagram that takes followers into the homes of the industry’s leaders and luminaries for an intimate interview. Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari. Max Büsser of MB&F;. And now, a Happy Hour version of the usual … ContinuedThe post Andrew reveals five of his own watches in a Media Watch Death Match against Josh from Watchonista (and gets a slapping) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude
Recently, Andrew put together his greatest hits from the Time+Tide Watches YouTube channel, chronicling some of the finest pieces of information and entertainment-rich video we have ever produced. It wouldn’t be fair to let him have all the fun, though, so I put together my own list, much of which I enjoyed for years before … ContinuedThe post Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One… Now In Plasma Ceramic (For Some Reason)!
The iconic figure-eight motif became the crux of the Grande Seconde look. Regardless of complication or style, all previous JD Grande Seconde pieces were recognizable due to their adherence to this motif. But can an aesthetic design callback like this be stretched too far?
Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton: Millions Of Years In The Making
Joshua Munchow's love for Chinchilla Red petrified wood in combination with red gold might make some believe that he puts it well above the other models in Jaquet Droz's Loving Butterfly Automaton line, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. He adores the opal dials too because they look like interstellar explosions. What else makes them so unique?
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Chronographs for Cooking, from Our Archives
In this week's column, we take a look at potential chronographs to consider for collectors who are picking up cooking and require a device to keep time.
Time+Tide
The watches of Michael Jordan, including Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, Rolex and Franck Muller
Michael Jordan is an NBA legend who many consider to be the greatest player of all time, the GOAT, or, if on social media, simply the goat emoji. Jordan won a total of six NBA championships with the Chicago Bulls and is nicknamed “Air Jordan” and “His Airness” for his ability to hang in the … ContinuedThe post The watches of Michael Jordan, including Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, Rolex and Franck Muller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
NOT ON MY WATCH: The one “truly strange and unnerving” detail that ruins the Cartier Tank for this writer
Remember the moral of The Emperor’s New Clothes? When something is universally praised, you become unwilling to speak out, even if something is gravely wrong on a fundamental level. That’s how I feel about the Cartier Tank. I know this is wildly sacrilegious. The Cartier Tank is, after all, one of the most iconic watches … ContinuedThe post NOT ON MY WATCH: The one “truly strange and unnerving” detail that ruins the Cartier Tank for this writer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Brief History Of Fabulous Fabergé Eggs – Reprise
When they hear the name Fabergé, most people immediately think of the Imperial Easter eggs. This is logical because even today the breathtaking craftsmanship and detailed execution of these objets d’art are the stuff of legends.
Quill & Pad
Why Watchmaking Matters Now
If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Buffy’s Cartier Pasha, a weird, wonderful and waterproof oddity
The Cartier Pasha is a watch surrounded by curiosity, so let's find out what made Buffy decide to pick up one of these interesting watches.The post What Sealed The Deal – Buffy’s Cartier Pasha, a weird, wonderful and waterproof oddity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again)
You may have heard the news that Tom Hanks and his wife Rita Wilson contracted coronavirus while filming the untitled Elvis Presley biopic in Australia; they are both reportedly recovering well, but Elvis fanatics will be champing at the bit for the production to ramp back up. It, like life as we know it, has … ContinuedThe post This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baselworld 2020 Exhibitors Demand Their Money Back
We covered earlier how Baseworld 2020 was set to be postponed to 2021. With that decision Baselworld probably figured they were covered for the rest of 2020 so they could just pick things back up in Jan 2021. Well, unfortunately it isn't that simple.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Photo Assignment – your submissions!
Last week, we sent out a request for submissions to our #ShootYourWatches assignment. Here are our picks from the email submissions.
Quill & Pad
Watches And Guitars: Longines vs. Gibson, And John Mayer’s Take On ‘Relicing’
Colin Alexander Smith highlights the fact that both electric guitars and watches share the timeless debate over whether to restore an item showing its age or to preserve it “as is.” And John Mayer is mixed up in both; but how?