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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Sep 1, 2023

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch

Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio Time+Tide
Sep 1, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio

What a week it’s been. Mere days after announcing that our Watch Discovery Studio is open to the public, we’ve already seen many of you visit, experiencing the brands we carry and chatting all things watches. So, before anything else, thank you for your ongoing support. For those who haven’t braved the rainy Melbourne weather … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 31, 2023

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures

As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Laurent Ferrier Aug 31, 2023

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

There are all kinds of watches that are tied to motorsports. Horology and racing are inextricably linked, and while the Venn Diagram of people who are into watches and into various aspects of car culture and auto racing isn’t exactly a circle, it’s honestly probably not far off. But when it comes to watches that are inspired by motorsport in one way or another, we find varying levels of refinement and authenticity in the products that make it to boutique shelves. It’s easy enough to slap a logo of a car manufacturer on a dial or make a caseback calling attention to a particular race, but it’s more challenging to draw a real connection between these two worlds, even as they’re so closely linked. One of the things that make the watches made by Laurent Ferrier so interesting is that the connection feels real, a natural result of the history of the team that founded the brand. Before he was a world renowned watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier and his partner Francois Servanin were (very accomplished) amateur racers, and the new version of the Sport Auto celebrates that history.  For watch fans who might not be familiar with Laurent Ferrier’s personal history prior to the founding of his eponymous brand, he did indeed make something of a name for himself in the automotive world at the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1979. Ferrier and his teammates (including Servanin and Francois Trisconi) placed third in that race out of 60, a surprising result for a group of non-professional...

The Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio is finally here Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2023

The Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio is finally here

Editor’s note: We’re beyond excited to share with you the news of the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio finally being open. In a sneak peek of one of the features in our latest magazine, our own Luke Benedictus brings you the story of the Studio from a visit a few weeks ahead of its opening, and … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces Worn & Wound
IWC Adds Aug 28, 2023

IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces

Sometimes I get tagged with the label of curmudgeon for my somewhat finicky and at times nonsensical taste in watches (and movies, and other things – I like what I like). But at the end of the day, I really just want watches to be fun, and for everyone to chill just a little bit when it comes to the hottest of takes on Instagram, YouTube, and elsewhere. If there’s one feature on a watch that captures a more nonchalant attitude toward watches in general, I think it has to be the fully lumed dial, right? Is there anything else that appeals so strongly to that proverbial inner child, the one who is still fascinated with things that glow in the dark? Lumed dials have been having a bit of a moment as of late, and now IWC is getting in on the action, with their first pilot’s watch with a fully lumed dial treatment, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. The Black Aces is the latest in an ongoing series of watches that IWC has made in partnership with US Navy squadrons as part of their Professional Pilot’s Watches Program. This new watch takes inspiration from a previous watch that IWC created for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41, also known as the Black Aces. This squadron has roots that date back to 1950, and is based at Naval Air Station Lemoore in California, and their Black Aces patch can be seen on the dial at the 6:00 position of the new pilot’s watch. IWC refers to this as a “Lumicast” dial, and it comes together after a complex process that invol...

Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu Aug 28, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Aug 28, 2023

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial

Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts  The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist.  Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like.  Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100.  This movement was presumably used because o...

The Argos Odyssey is an affordable and thoughtful everyday watch Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2023

The Argos Odyssey is an affordable and thoughtful everyday watch

Back when everybody wore a watch to keep their lives organised, most people only needed something that indicated the time and date. Nothing truly fancy in terms of complications. However, not everyone had the same kind of budget to buy such an essential tool. Some could afford a luxury Swiss timepiece while others an inexpensive … ContinuedThe post The Argos Odyssey is an affordable and thoughtful everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – RG Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – Aug 25, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – RG

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader RG shares a trio of killer watches that cover a range of flavors. From complications like a big date and GMT, to simple time only affairs, there’s a lot to love with these three watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Mido Multifort TV Big Date – $1,200 With an impressive finishing at the price point and harkening back to the vintage TV case shape, Mido brings their own take on the steel sports watch. With some cues and derivatives from the fames Patek Philippe Aquanaut, Mido makes use of the TV case in a great way. The finishing is outstanding, like we have come to expect from the brand. And it also boasts a proprietary movement that is only shared with Certina. Other features that are very much appreciated are the sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, see-through case back, that although not the most beautiful movement out there is still nice to look at and the compact size of 40mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug width of 46.5mm that is sure to fit the majority of wrists out there. But perhaps the one that steals the show, as it suggests in the name, is the “big date” complication. A complication normally reserved for high horology masterpieces from the like of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashüte Original. This one was an easy grab for me. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $1,200 Christopher Ward has long been ...

New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal Quill & Pad
Aug 25, 2023

New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal

There are no photos (either real or CAD) nor sketches of the McGonigle Ogma, and there’s been no public announcement; however (surprise, surpise!), most of the watches have already been reserved. How times have changed. In the words of Dorothy to her dog in The Wizard of Oz after being sucked up by a tornado, "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore."

Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Aug 22, 2023

Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop

Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. The post Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son Worn & Wound
F.P. Journe he was handpicked Aug 21, 2023

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son

Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down, first seen in 2010, is one of independent watchmaking’s most inventive and whimsical creations. Ballouard started his own brand after stints working with big names like Franck Muller and F.P. Journe (he was handpicked by Journe to work on his most complex movement, the Sonnerie Souveraine), and his signature complication is quite unlike anything else. The Upside Down’s conceit is that it displays each hour upside down except the current hour, which is flipped right side up when the minute hand crosses 12:00. It’s an incredibly complicated design, the purpose of which, according to Ballouard, is to “treasure the time we are in.” It’s also just a very cool party trick, and the platform for the latest release from Grail Watch, Wei Koh’s ongoing series of dream collaborations.  The new Upside Down seen here isn’t a brand to brand collaboration like previous Grail Watch releases, but a heartfelt partnership between Ballouard and his young son, Gabriel, or “Gaga” for short. Wei Koh asked Ballouard if Gabriel could be involved in the creation of this watch after hearing Ballouard’s incredible story of becoming a parent. He lost his first wife, Eveline, to cancer, some years ago, but not before she told him of her hopes that he’d remarry and have a family. This seemed impossible to Ballouard at first, but he eventually met Flavia during his daily walk in Parc Bertrand in Geneva. She changed his life, and they soon become ...

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2023

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch

There are a lot of weird watches in the world, from a slime-powered smartwatch to one that will tell you when you’re going to die. People are always looking for something unique, to stand out as a conversation piece. But, would you resort to a watch which can carry around live animals? The Amazing Live … ContinuedThe post The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Citizen Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] All the Panels and Podcasts from Windup Watch Fair Chicago

Couldn’t make it to Venue West for last month’s Windup Watch Fair Chicago? We’ve got you covered. Not only can you find a photo recap and video of the entire event right here, you can now view the panels and podcasts from the event as well. Time On Screen LIVE!: Once Upon a Time… In Hollywood presented by Citizen In celebration of the release of the reimagined Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Edition, we dig into Quentin Tarantino’s critically acclaimed ninth film, Once Upon a Time … In Hollywood. Zach Kazan, Editor at Worn & Wound and host of the Time On Screen podcast, is joined by Neall Brick, Director of Merchandising at Citizen Watch America, and Kyle Snarr, Head of Partnerships at Worn & Wound, to tackle this other famous reimagining. We Love The 90s The 90s! You remember the 90s. Or maybe you don’t? Either way, you’re probably aware of the cultural touchstones of the era. Jurassic Park, The Discman, Dial-up internet. It was a complicated, but innocent time, and the watches of the era reflect that. For many of us, the watches of the 90s are the very first watches we had a real connection to, way before social media could even hint that we might actually be watch enthusiasts. In this conversation with Blake Buettner, Managing Editor and Zach Kazan, Sr. Editor at Worn & Wound, as well as Gabe Reilly, Co-founder and Creative Director at Collective Horology, we’ll discuss the watch era that shaped and molded us, whether we realize it or ...

A Modern Take On A Classic Pilot’s Watch: Hands On With The Bremont Fury WatchAdvice
Bremont Fury If you’re after Aug 16, 2023

A Modern Take On A Classic Pilot’s Watch: Hands On With The Bremont Fury

If you’re after an aviation styled watch, that can go from the beach to the boardroom, then the Bremont Fury may just be the watch for you! We wrist tested it for a couple of weeks, and here’s what we thought… What We Love The textured dialThe aviation stylingPower reserve indicator at 6 o’clock What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dialLack of character in the strapUnsure of what category of watch to fit it in Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 As you may know from previous articles we’ve written on Bremont and its founders, Giles and Nick English, you no doubt be aware of their love of aviation, and the reasons for starting up Bremont over 20 years ago. If not, then you can get brought up to speed in our interview with Giles here. So it’s no surprise that when they were designing their H1 series of watches with the Bremont assembled movement (the first for the brand) that one of these pieces had to be a pilots inspired watch. The Bremont Fury in blue – a modern take on the classic pilot’s watch. The Fury was that piece in both a blue and black colourway, designed to be a contemporary take on the classic aviation watch. I first saw this piece in person when I caught up with Giles back in April, and liked what I saw. So needless to say it was one of their pieces that I immediately wanted to put on my wrist to see how it wore and looked as I went about my day to day. When asked which colour I wanted...

Track Time With Three New Seiko Chronographs – Now In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko Chronographs – Now Aug 14, 2023

Track Time With Three New Seiko Chronographs – Now In The Windup Watch Shop

There’s a place in any watch collection for a solid chronograph. There’s something so fun about having a little stopwatch on your wrist to track time. Even if you’re not using the commonly-seen tachymeter bezel to calculate speed, you’ll find yourself using it for countless tasks throughout the day. It can be really handy to know how long that meal’s been on the stove, or how long you’ve been letting that french press sit. Today, we have three new chronographs in the shop from Seiko. Two of the three feature quartz movements, while the other features a convenient and reliable solar chronograph. Let’s take a look at these exciting releases from Seiko that we’re thrilled to offer in the Windup Watch Shop. There’s a place in any watch collection for a solid chronograph. There’s something so fun about having a little stopwatch on your wrist to track time. Even if you’re not using the commonly-seen tachymeter bezel to calculate speed, you’ll find yourself using it for countless tasks throughout the day. It can be really handy to know how long that meal’s been on the stove, or how long you’ve been letting that french press sit. Today, we have three new chronographs in the shop from Seiko. Two of the three feature quartz movements, while the other features a convenient and reliable solar chronograph. Let’s take a look at these exciting releases from Seiko that we’re thrilled to offer in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Track Time With Three New Se...

Oskar Pascal OP483 Chronograph: The World’s First Watch in NASA-Grade, Ultra-Hard ZR01 Metal – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 12, 2023

Oskar Pascal OP483 Chronograph: The World’s First Watch in NASA-Grade, Ultra-Hard ZR01 Metal – Reprise

Oskar Pascal is the brainchild of a pair of Swedish brothers who were neither previously involved in the watch industry nor are they watchmakers. The engineer and designer have created a cleanly designed chronograph housed within the world's first watch case in ZR01, an amorphous alloy based on zirconium, one of the hardest metals in the world and even used by NASA. And then there are the Pods!