Hodinkee
Introducing: Bell & Ross Hops On The Kenissi Train With The New BR X5
In which we say goodbye to the numerals on the dial, and hello to a new movement (and longer power reserve) from the design-focused, Paris-based watchmaker.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge”
With the recent drop of novelties from Patek Philippe and the unveiling of the successor to the Nautilus ref. 5711: the 5811/1G, we decided now is the perfect time for a bit of Nautilus trivia courtesy of the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword. See how you fare below.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap
Brand collaborations are becoming almost as popular now as vintage dive-watch reissues, so much so that the phenomenon now extends to straps as well as watches. Although it may seem a little ridiculous at first, anything which motivates watch companies to become more creative and branch out from the norms is a great thing in … ContinuedThe post IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi
Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...
Quill & Pad
How Do You Top The Sensational De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? By Customizing It, Of Course – Reprise
What Makes Me Tick loves watches made by small independent artisans because they fully embody the visions of their makers, who have put blood, sweat, and tears into creating them. Among the independent brands, De Bethune is most probably his favorite. In fact, no "probably" about it: De Bethune is his favorite. Here's how his customized DB28 Maxichrono came to be.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel
A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives. Initial thoughts The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic. But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology. The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel. Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit w...
Revolution
IWC’s TOP GUN Exhibition Comes to Singapore
From 22 to 30 October, IWC is holding an exhibition featuring its partnership with Top Gun and its incredibly popular colored ceramic pilot’s watches. Jeremiah met with IWC’s Chief Design Officer, Christian Knoop to take a first look at the exhibition and explore the brand’s world of color and Top Gun. We also got to […]
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun
Laco are phenomenally popular with Flieger wearers as they’re one of the affordable brands to have made those original pilot’s watches during WWII. Now, the brand are as strong as ever and have branched out significantly from what could be considered their staple. The Laco Scorpion is a new extension to their Squad Watch collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Country megastar Luke Bryan’s social media is a horological thirst trap
Country megastar Luke Bryan has a frankly astounding watch collection, but you wouldn’t know it going by how little he’s spoken about the subject. Yet, if you pay attention to his Instagram feed, it seems he’s wearing something new in just about every post. And why shouldn’t he? Sales-wise, those homespun ditties are no joke: … ContinuedThe post Country megastar Luke Bryan’s social media is a horological thirst trap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Release: Panerai Luminor Quaranta Razer PAM01353
The alliance continues with the introduction of Luminor Quaranta Razer Special Edition, a watch that merges high-end horology and the iconic aesthetic of the most recognized name in esports and global gaming. Production will be limited to 500 pieces available exclusively through Panerai boutiques and Panerai.com.
Time+Tide
“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811
During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Up Close with the New Patek Philippe 5935A World Time Chronograph
The Patek Philippe 5935A World Time Chronograph is finally available in the flesh and Jeremiah went to have a closer look at his favorite of all of the brand’s releases in October.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial
Singapore watch retailer Cortina continues with its roll-out of special watches to mark its golden jubilee. Following limited editions from Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and H. Moser & Cie. comes the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch. While it might sound like yet another vintage-inspired chronograph, the latest Carrera is unlike anything TAG Heuer has done before. Instead of the usual steel, the case is 18k yellow gold, while the dial is made of maw sit sit, a little-known green gemstone found only in the northern parts of Myanmar. And the hour markers and hands are of course 18k yellow gold to match. Initial thoughts The base-model Carrera powered by the in-house Heuer 02 calibre is an appealing watch to begin with, especially in steel where it’s an affordable proposition with a historical design. But it is primarily a practical, everyday watch, which is arguably what it should be given its history as a motorsports chronograph. The Cortina edition, however, is the opposite. It is pricey, very much so in fact, but it is special. Green is the fashionable colour in watchmaking now, so you might be forgiven for feeling weary when faced with yet another dial in the colour. But green dials certainly capture the zeitgeist of today, and perhaps personify the “hype” watch culture exemplified by the famous olive-dial sports watch. The new Carrera, in contrast, runs counter to that. It is definitely green, but the natural stone dial means it is a intrinsically v...
Quill & Pad
My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches)
“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breitling's Chronomat GMT May Be The Sleeper Hit Of The Year (Live Pics)
With a new GMT complication and new size for the Chronomat lineup, these Breitlings are bursting with more than just great dials.
SJX Watches
Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer
A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Steel Nautilus With A Blue Dial! The Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A Returns, Plus The Other Patek Newness
Including a rose gold 5712 and baguette bezel surprise.
Time+Tide
The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition
Hamilton’s history is a rich one. After taking over existing manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania and establishing the Hamilton Watch Company in 1892, the brand was first focused on producing accurate railroad pocket watches, before shifting production to wristwatches after WWI, eventually only producing military watches during WWII. The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket watch focuses on … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction
At Time+Tide, we love a good auction. The thrill of the bids and the hunt for the bargains make them by far the most exciting way to go watch shopping, and there’s often some interesting and alluring products lining the catalogues. Zach and Ricardo have previously had their turns with Ineichen, but now it’s my … ContinuedThe post My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Summit 3: Have I Lost My Mind Comparing A Smartwatch To A Rolls-Royce?
The Montblanc Summit 3 smartwatch is similar to a Rolls-Royce's electronics in that it doesn't dazzle with complex menus and an overload of information, alarms, and notifications. It’s more like the perfect secretary who knows precisely when to disturb the boss and when not to. Martin Green is quite enamored.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Is Releasing Three New Speedtimer Chronograph Versions
Introducing the new Seiko Speedtimer references SSC911, SSC913, and SSC915 set to release in November 2022. Full photos, specs, and more.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera
Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...
SJX Watches
Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Heads Up, Watch Lovers – New York Is The Place To Be Next Weekend
The annual WatchTime New York and Windup Watch Fair showcases return to the Big Apple.
Hodinkee
Four + One: How A Fashion Podcaster Who 'Thinks About Watches Too Much' Built His Collection
"I don't have a ton of heat,“ says Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo. “But I have things that are special to me – and I've found my own niche in the watch world."
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes
Having distributed watches for Yema and Heuer in the 1970s alongside producing their own spectacular chronographs, it’s surprising that Le Jour have so far focused on other styles such as their SeaColt and Coral divers. Now, the time has come for them to embrace their true heritage and release the Le Jour Le Mans - … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Eight Little-Known Facts About A. Lange & Söhne In The 1990s
Straight from Walter Lange and Günther Blümlein.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos
Racing watches are some of the most desirable and historically significant models that have ever been released. While tool watches meant for the military and divers have mostly lost their original purpose, the exhilarating themes and overt extravagance of a racing chronograph is still as relevant to motorsport today as it was in the 1960s. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Kudoke Real Skeleton Starring In Feature Film ‘Last Looks’ Heads To Auction
While watching television, Ian Skellern spied a Kudoke Real Skeleton in a feature film called 'Last Looks' starring Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson. That watch is now being auctioned in New York in December. Here's its backstory.
Hodinkee
Interview: The Founders Of Bell & Ross Couldn't Find The Perfect Tool Watch. So They Decided To Create Their Own
All Carlos Rosillo and Bruno Belamich needed was a little help from Sinn and Chanel.