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Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...

Showing Off The Gold-Plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver This Monday Morning Fratello
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Sep 16, 2024

Showing Off The Gold-Plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver This Monday Morning

There might be debate about which brand released the first modern dive watch, but it’s safe to say that Zodiac was one of the first three. The Sea Wolf debuted in the 1950s - 1957 seems to be the year of the watch’s release, but this is still up for debate - and its original […] Visit Showing Off The Gold-Plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver This Monday Morning to read the full article.

Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Releases New References Sep 12, 2024

Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection

“Attesa” is an Italian word that means “expectation” or “anticipation.” Since 1987, it has been the home of Citizen’s next-generation watches, where its expertise in processing titanium and employing innovative technologies exceeds expectations and anticipates the future. Think of it as their E-Class; anecdotally, Mercedes’ E-Class is the first to receive all the latest bells and whistles, which are later incorporated into the other model lines. Speaking of bells and whistles, Attesa is launching two new world-time chronographs for 2024, both packed with a wide range of features and functions. The first is the CC4059-64L, a 44.6mm Super Titanium timepiece featuring an ultra-hard black Duratect DLC coated case. Its dial features blue-violet vertical striping, while the subdials and rehaut are black. Its bezel matches the color of the dial, and the city names are applied using a special vapor deposition process to create a reflective silver color. The second is the CC4074-61W, which utilizes the same case, bracelet, and black Duratect DLC coating. However, this model features a sunburst charcoal dial with black subdials and rehaut and a black sapphire bezel with city names in pink gold. Pink gold also appears on the bezel edges, hands, applied markers, the edges of the subdials, and the date window. Powering these high-tech pieces is the state-of-the-art Citizen caliber F950. This movement can receive a satellite-correcting signal in just 3 seconds, which is ...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Sep 12, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]

Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces Sep 10, 2024

Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary

Breitling has been synonymous with pilot watches and aviation for 140 years. Throughout their illustrious history, many iconic collections have been produced, including the Premier, the Chronomat, and, let’s not forget, the world-famous Navitimer. As they approached this significant anniversary, they found themselves in a delightful dilemma. They couldn’t choose which of the three collections should receive special attention. So, instead of choosing, they decided to feature all three, and that’s precisely what they did. And by special attention, they were not talking about just a new dial color, case material, or unique engraving. No, they are introducing a brand-new movement and a first for Breitling. This new B19 movement is not just a column-wheel chronograph, which features a vertical clutch mechanism and a moon phase. It is also a full perpetual calendar that can automatically correct for leap years and months of 28, 30, and 31 days. It can run for nearly one hundred years without significant adjustment, and despite all these extra complications, its power reserve is a very generous 96 hours. In 1943, the Breitling Premier was the watch that brought the chronograph out of the cockpit and onto the wrists of everyday people. With its classic lines, clean looks, and no-nonsense design, it not only looked fashionable but was also very practical. The new Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary is no different. It features an 18K red gold 42mm case, which is 15.6mm thick...

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph We Sep 8, 2024

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024

The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 –  Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGA025 Sep 2, 2024

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347

Don’t you love how the designers at Grand Seiko keep using Japanese natural phenomena and settings as inspiration? Of course, I’m not a fan of all Grand Seiko watches, but I enjoy reading through the press releases and looking up the places and things from which the dial colors and textures are derived. It’s like […] Visit Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Fratello
Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs MB&F; Sep 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2

Our Sunday Morning Showdowns are usually quite sensible. Okay…relatively sensible. We often pit two attainable everyday watches against each other to see which wins the popular vote. Well, today is a bit different. Today, we have a brawl between two Nouvelle Horlogerie watches that, unless you are reading this from the sundeck of your 200-foot […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Breitling s B01 but upgraded Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

First Look – The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton, with new High-Frequency Movement Monochrome
Speake-Marin Aug 29, 2024

First Look – The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton, with new High-Frequency Movement

While immediately recognizable thanks to its signature Piccadilly case, which is found in its emblematic Openworked and Academic collections, Speake Marin decided in 2022 that it was time to join the all-important sporty-chic category, with its own vision of a watch with an integrated bracelet. This took the shape of an original watch named Ripples, […]

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...

Our Favorite G-Shock Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 23, 2024

Our Favorite G-Shock Watches Of All Time

We are back with another roundup by our editorial team, this time focused on G-Shock. Our objective this time was simple: to pick the G-Shock which got us into G-Shock in the first place. This doesn’t necessarily mean we are choosing a watch we own, or even have owned (though both of those scenarios are covered in these paragraphs) but rather the G-Shock that opened are eyes to a brand which – to put it mildly – has garnered a fanatical audience. So behold our entirely subjective list of what amounts to our favorite G-Shock watches. Let us know what models got you into G-Shock in the comments below! Mark Bernardo: MTGB1000 Unlike many of my peers who found themselves drawn into a career in watch journalism, my road to watch appreciation didn’t run through the G-Shock. I have worn a watch for as long as I can remember but I have always been, for the most part, an analog guy: Timexes, Fossils, the Victorinox Swiss Army pilot’s watch I bought myself with my first sizable tax refund as a gainfully employed young adult. When I started as a writer and editor specializing in timepieces, my initial take on the model was probably something like, “Casio G-Shock? Isn’t that what all those officers are wearing when they’re cuffing perps on Cops?” Having now outed myself as someone who watched Cops, I can now also admit that my narrow perception began to change drastically after a fateful press trip to Japan in the late 2000s - the first time, I was told back the...

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Aug 18, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture Aug 12, 2024

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols

Vacheron Constantin taps into a more creative vein with the latest quartet of watches celebrating ancient Chinese culture. Emerging from Vacheron’s Métiers d’Art atelier, the four models offer two different interpretations of the legendary Chinese motif known as the “Seawater Cliff”. The motif, which appeared in the 14th century, represents the sea crashing against steep […]