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Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko moved up beyond Dec 22, 2025

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...

eBay Finds: Two Classic Seiko Dive Watches, a Stunning Vintage Movado, and the Strangest Timex We’ve Ever Seen Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux   Next up Dec 19, 2025

eBay Finds: Two Classic Seiko Dive Watches, a Stunning Vintage Movado, and the Strangest Timex We’ve Ever Seen

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko 6309-7049  Got some great stuff for you this week, starting off with this classic and iconic vintage Seiko 6309-7049. Small rant here, the seller calls it a “turtle”, and I know lots of others do too, but damn I hate that nickname. Anyway, horrible nickname notwithstanding, the 6309 is a brilliant diver that really shouldn’t need any introduction. This example is really nice, and looks all original with a touch of honest wear. The steel case looks unpolished with the original brushed and polished finishes and sharp edges. The black dial looks great with nicely aged lume. The bezel insert is original with some light wear and a little fading that gives it a touch of that lovely ghost bezel look. Movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great original example of a highly desirable vintage Seiko diver. View auction here Vintage 1950s Girard-Perregaux  Next up is a sweet vintage Girard-Perregaux sport/dress watch. The 31mm steel case is excellent, unpolished with crisp edges and nice polished finish. It features fancy horned style lugs that really pop. The original cream dial is a beauty, with a quite pleasant, even patina to it. It has applied steel markers and ...

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte SJX Watches
Dec 18, 2025

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte

The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...

Exhibition Dedicated to Miniaturisation at AP House Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s smallest Dec 17, 2025

Exhibition Dedicated to Miniaturisation at AP House Singapore

AP House Singapore is staging its first exhibition, making full use of the expansive space inside Singapore’s iconic colonial-era Raffles Hotel. 150 Years of Refined Elegance is a showcase of miniaturisation, covering Audemars Piguet’s smallest and thinnest movements, including an 18 mm-wide minute repeating calibre from the late 19th century. Taking place in the basement of the “house”, the exhibition starts with watches from the 1920s and ends in the current day that includes the Royal Oak Mini and the recently launched 38 mm perpetual calendar models. The Royal Oak Mini in “Frosted” gold Although not described as such, the exhibition naturally focuses a great deal on ladies’ watches, one of the recent themes of AP’s marketing. Unsurprisingly, one of the prominent figures in the exhibition is Jacqueline Dimier, chief designer at AP from 1975 to 1999 who conceived of the 29 mm Royal Oak for ladies shortly after the launch of the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402ST in 1972. Exhibition details The exhibition is open daily from 11 am to 8 pm and takes place at AP House Singapore located in the Raffles Hotel Singapore. Entry is free but registration is required; visits can be scheduled at Audemarspiguet.com.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Spielberg’s Mysterious New Film, PlayStation Watches, and More Worn & Wound
Dec 13, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Spielberg’s Mysterious New Film, PlayStation Watches, and More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Spielberg’s Mysterious Sci-Fi Film   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Amblin Entertainment (@amblin) Steven Spielberg has a new, still untitled, original UFO movie coming out next year, and we aren’t talking about it nearly enough. A new sci-fi film from the director of ET, Close Encounters, AI, Minority Report, etc should be a very big deal, and it still might be once people start wrestling with the idea of Spielberg returning to this genre. Very little is known about the movie – the plot has been kept completely under wraps. But it stars Emily Blunt, filmed in New Jersey and the Hudson Valley, was written by David Koepp (a frequent Spielberg collaborator), and this week, the first bit of marketing started to hit. In a handful of cities, large billboards with the June 12 release date, an evocative image, and the words “all will be disclosed” began to appear. We love a mysterious campaign, and the idea that a new, and apparently quite major, Spielberg movie is 6 months away and we know nothing about it is tantalizing.  The Year’s Best in GPS Watches The watch world is full of little niches, and rabbit holes within rabbit holes. Smart watche...

First Look – Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon Brings A New Pulse of Colour Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Dec 12, 2025

First Look – Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon Brings A New Pulse of Colour

Armin Strom’s celebrated Gravity Equal Force series expands with an elegant twist, the Ultimate Sapphire Salmon. Continuing the brand’s exploration of colour and transparency, this latest edition pairs technical mastery with artisanal finesse, featuring a hand-guilloché salmon mainplate and the brand’s innovative constant-force calibre, bringing new vibrancy to one of modern horology’s most inventive movements. […]

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings SJX Watches
De Bethune s In-House Hairsprings De Dec 10, 2025

Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings

De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...

9 New Watches Released This Week Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 6, 2025

9 New Watches Released This Week

Even with the year coming to an end, we are still seeing a slow trickle of new watch releases ranging from a new MoonSwatch to a Breguet showstopper celebrating the maison's 250th anniversary. Here are the notable new watch releases from this past week as well as the new updates to the Tudor Ranger and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (hey, we can be a little flexible with the "week" rule). As brands squeeze in final announcements before the calendar flips, it's a reminder that the watch world never really rests. And if you want to see our favorite watches of the year, make sure to check out the Teddy Top 40 Watches of 2025 which just got a big update. [toc-section heading="TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Carrera"] TAG Heuer continues its collaborative relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara and his fashion brand, fragment design, with the release of a new glassbox Carrera this week. The watch takes design cues from fragment’s signature style, meaning monochromatic in nature, with minimal details to place emphasis on the broad strokes for contrast. The black-on-black dial is framed by a white internal bezel structure, which is domed under the glassbox crystal. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position, with the first and 11th of the month using the fragment lightning-bolt logo in lieu of the numeral. This is fitted within the excellent 39mm steel Carrera case, and utilizes TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Thi...

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches Worn & Wound
Omega Dec 4, 2025

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches

The last, but certainly not least, panel of Windup Watch Fair 2025 features Andi Felsl and David Sharp, CEO and COO of Horage. The two discuss the remarkable story of how Horage’s breakthrough in the world of mechanical regulation. It’s called MicroReg, and Horage believes it is a game-changer. Hear (or read) all about it, including an audience Q&A;, below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello everyone, welcome to the final panel of Wind-Up Watch Fair New York City 2025. This panel is sponsored by Horage, and I’m pleased to be joined by Andi Felsl, CEO of Horage, and David Sharp, COO of Horage. It’s a pleasure to have you both here. We’re going to be talking about Micro-Reg, a fascinating new technology developed by Horage-potentially game-changing in the watchmaking space. Andi, can you start by explaining what Micro-Reg is in layman’s terms, and how the idea came about? Andi Felsl Thank you for having us-it’s a pleasure to be the last panel of the fair. The idea dates back about ten years, when we were preparing for volume manufacturing of our first movement, the K1. At the end of assembly, I realized regulation was going to be a cost issue. Regulation is a costly exercise because it requires precision, and we don’t have the production volume of Rolex or Omega. We needed a different way. I wondered: could we regulate the watch from the outside, while it’s being worn? Regulation has been a big is...

How a Summer Job While Pursuing a Degree in Anthropology Turned into a Decade-Long Career as Heritage Director at Zenith Worn & Wound
Zenith Laurence Bodenmann has served Dec 1, 2025

How a Summer Job While Pursuing a Degree in Anthropology Turned into a Decade-Long Career as Heritage Director at Zenith

Laurence Bodenmann has served as the Heritage Director of Zenith for a decade. She’s also a member of the scientific committee for The Watch Library, a non-profit public interest foundation established in 2021 to document, preserve, and share watchmaking archives. While Bodenmann has become a staple of the industry, her role in watches was mere happenstance or rather came out of necessity. It spurred from a summer job at the International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds while trying to earn some extra money during her pursuit of a degree in anthropology. “I was always interested in logic – when I was young, I first thought I wanted to be a math teacher,” she recalls. “But as I got older, I realized what interested me most was how different people approached reasoning,” Bodenmann continues, “and how factors like cultural context and economical or sociological diversity informed their thought process. I found it fascinating to observe how one person would approach an object or problem in one way and another person would do it completely differently.”  While Bodenmann didn’t initially expect to find herself in the world of horology, we can see why it’s been such a natural fit. The entire watch industry revolves around her astute observations as a teenager. Every person within a manufacturer – from the watchmaker sitting at a bench to the executives running the brand – is faced with the same object – a timepiece – and many of the same probl...

Gone Fishin’ with the Timex Hooks: A Look Back at What 1990s Horological Tech Had to Offer Worn & Wound
Seiko divers However Nov 27, 2025

Gone Fishin’ with the Timex Hooks: A Look Back at What 1990s Horological Tech Had to Offer

If you’ve sensed a theme with my work throughout the last year or so here on Worn & Wound, you’re not alone. The 1980s and 90s Timex catalog has fully gotten a hold of my attention for the last year or so, with pieces from that era finding their way into my watch boxes and causing a seismic shift in my collecting habits. Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: I’ll never stray away from my mechanical pieces and Seiko divers. However, the fun and quirky nature of Timex during the latter half of the 20th century is an era I will now hold forever near and dear to my heart. I added this Timex Hooks model to my collection only a few months ago after wanting one for several years. Though I’m not an incredibly passionate fisherman, there was always something about the watch’s design that piqued my interest. Go grab your fishing rod, get some nightcrawlers from the local gas station, and head out to your nearest bubbling brook, as we take a look into what makes the Timex Hooks such an underrated watch in the brand’s catalog. History and Design According to advertisements and catalogs, the Timex Hooks model was released in 1990 alongside other outdoor watches designed at assisting in specialized outdoor activities like skiing, surfing, cross-training, mountain climbing, and more. Possessing many impressive and high-tech features for that era that we’ll dig into shortly, the Hooks retailed for $65 (the equivalent of roughly $161 in 2025). Simultaneously, Time...

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Intelligent Watch Winder Nov 25, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar

Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Very Rare Comic Sells for a Record, a DIY Monochrome Camera, and Belhamel’s New Contra A39 Worn & Wound
Nov 22, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Very Rare Comic Sells for a Record, a DIY Monochrome Camera, and Belhamel’s New Contra A39

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Belhamel Doubles Down on Character with New Contra A39 Polar White and Forest Green Editions Belhamel is back with two fresh takes on its cult-favorite Contra A39 - and they hit that sweet spot between heritage and modern tool-watch sensibility. The new Polar White and Forest Green editions keep the sharp 39mm proportions and no-nonsense specs (300m water resistance, Miyota 9039 inside, double-domed sapphire up top), but shift the tone entirely through color and texture. The Polar White channels vintage motorsport cool-bright, high-contrast, and a little daring-while the Forest Green goes the other way: matte, earthy, quietly confident. Both are limited to 500 pieces, individually numbered, with the same clever push-button clasp and engraved caseback that’s become part of Belhamel’s design DNA. It’s another reminder that this young London outfit knows how to make a watch feel both considered and alive. Pre-orders open later this year at belhamel.com, with early access for newsletter subscribers. A Record Setting Comic What’s the most valuable thing you’ve ever found stashed away in an attic? This is a common fantasy, fueled by viral “Antiques Roadshow...

Rolex Submariner Desk Clock: The Real Desk Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Nov 18, 2025

Rolex Submariner Desk Clock: The Real Desk Diver

Do you love the Rolex Submariner, but just found its classic 41mm diameter way, way too small? Like, about 39mm too small?  Have you looked at a barren corner of your desk and thought, Jeez, I wish my desktop had a jumbo-sized Submariner of its own, so people really know I’m about that Rolex Sub life? Well, if these questions have been keeping you up at night, I am here to deliver news of a possible solution to your problems. Though it didn’t get a ton of publicity (I think the Crown is saving its marketing campaigns for its wristwatches), Rolex quietly released its very first desk clock that is available for the general public. That’s right, you can now get your very own Submariner Date desk clock, given that a Rolex boutique near you has them in stock.  Oddly enough, the Submariner Date desk clock marks the very first time Rolex has ever released a clock to the general public. You would have thought by now, the Crown would have a vintage archive of desk, wall, and other large-sized clocks somewhere in the heritage vault. I mean, just about every other major watchmaker with as much history as Rolex offered them throughout the 20th century, from Patek Philippe to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Omega to Longines and beyond. Even Bulova has an extensive repertoire of mid-century clocks, most significantly being its extensive array of mid-century clock radios (which you can find plenty of second-hand). But that isn’t to say that Rolex never explored making clocks – the Crow...

Join Junghans at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for an Evening of Bauhaus and Beer Worn & Wound
Junghans Nov 13, 2025

Join Junghans at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for an Evening of Bauhaus and Beer

On Thursday, November 20, 2025, from 6:30 to 8:30 PM, we are hosting a special evening with our friends from Junghans at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom. The theme is simple and fun, Bauhaus meets Biergarten, a mix of great design, great watches, and great beer. RSVP HERE Guests will be able to browse a selection of special Junghans models and hear more about the brand’s connection to 100 years of Bauhaus. Members of both the Junghans team and the Worn and Wound crew will be on hand to talk watches, design, and the ideas that have shaped the brand’s legacy. We will have snacks and beverages throughout the night, including a Biergarten flight tasting that pairs perfectly with your favorite Junghans pieces. At the end of the night, one attendee will be selected to win a 2025 edition of the 1972 Chronoscope Sports Edition from the Windup Watch Shop. Event Details Date and Time: Thursday, November 20, 2025, from 6:30 to 8:30 PM Location: Windup Watch Shop Showroom, 540 President Street, Suite 1G, Brooklyn, NY 11215 RSVP Required: An RSVP is required to attend the kick off event. Please submit the form below to register. If attending with others, complete the form once per guest. RSVP HERE We look forward to seeing you there! The post Join Junghans at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for an Evening of Bauhaus and Beer appeared first on Worn & Wound.