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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Feb 12, 2022

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months

Warm, glowing, and oozing a charming luxury, who doesn’t love a cracking gold watch? Regardless of the tone or colour, whether it’s red, pink or even white, there’s just something special about its heft and lustre. Here are 5 of the best gold watches from this year. 1. Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K Gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year Quill & Pad
Feb 3, 2022

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price Time+Tide
Jan 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price

There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries Jan 30, 2022

HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage

It’s no secret at Time+Tide that I am a bit of a GMT fiend. There is just something about that complication that gets my horological juices flowing. Which means when a brand decides to release a GMT, I’m all over it. Will it have a classic design? How will the lume be? How will the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life? Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2022

What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life?

Back in my high school days, I remember watching the UK show Skins and thinking how wild its portrayal of high school/college life was – partying, drink, drugs and sex to the max. MTV, unsuccessfully, tried to transport Skins over to the US with their own take on the storyline. With American television far more restricted … ContinuedThe post What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1 SJX Watches
Jan 26, 2022

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1

Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...

VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2022

VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k

Now we’re getting to the pointy end of the 2021 roundup, and there isn’t a single watch listed here that doesn’t mean serious business. Between $10,000 and $20,000 USD lie some people’s grail watches, culture-changing icons, or if you’re lucky, just more nice watches for your collection. Here are some of the best releases of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The IWC Big Pilot 43 (#13) Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 #13 Jan 10, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The IWC Big Pilot 43 (#13)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 13, it’s the IWC Big Pilot 43.  The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The IWC Big Pilot 43 (#13) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

QuickTakes: the new Harry Winston Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds Deployant
Jan 8, 2022

QuickTakes: the new Harry Winston Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds

Overall, the Harry Winston Z14 fares well in design and complication. Its approach shows that it understands the modern affluent buyer, with the current trend of sports luxury timepieces. The openworked design is well executed and the retrograde display cleverly shows the snail cam in action for dial side animation. The watch is limited to 300 pieces and has a retail price of US$26,400.

VIDEO: Elegance meets complication in the Longines Master Collection moonphase Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection moonphase Every Dec 28, 2021

VIDEO: Elegance meets complication in the Longines Master Collection moonphase

Every watch brand has their range through which they get to brag. Finishing, design and movements are all aspects where a watchmaker can shine, and Longines choose to represent their best with the Master Collection - a range of classically styled wristwatches that emulate some of their complicated timepieces from the infancy of the brand, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Elegance meets complication in the Longines Master Collection moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side Time+Tide
Hublot One Click Range explores Dec 25, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side

Hublot has a reputation that it upholds firmly. It’s one of masculinity, industrial design, and a sporty capability reinforced by adorning the wrists of celebrity athletes. While this reputation has been integral to their personality since their rise in the 1980s, this love-it-or-hate-it image has caused a massive divide amongst watch fans. Even their Millennial … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Dec 3, 2021

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining  and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar SJX Watches
Omega Debuts Dec 1, 2021

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500 Time+Tide
Nov 29, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500

What is it about pilot watches that makes them so popular? Is it their historically superior legibility? Maybe it’s the incorporation of aeronautical elements into the design? Or is it that utilitarian aesthetic that speaks to everyone’s collector spirit? Whatever the reasons are, it’s impossible to not see how passionate people get about their pilot … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.