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Quill & Pad
The 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize presentation ceremony is at 7pm (CET) Thursday the 13 of November, and you can watch the prize-giving ceremony live here on Quill & Pad. Here are all of the watches in the running for a prize, there are six watches preselected in each of the 15 categories.
Time+Tide
This flying saucer-like watch sports a newly designed calibre with jumping hours and dragging minutes, accessible via a hinged cover.The post Czapek’s Time Jumper goes fully funky for the manufacture’s 10-year revival anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Time travel doesn’t exist. I mean, maybe they did crack that code deep in an underground bunker on the east end of Long Island between the 1950s and 1980s during what’s known as the Montauk Project. Our civilian watch enthusiast selves will never know the truth. Admittedly, I’ve been rewatching The X-Files a little bit too much lately and recently camped out in the Camp Hero parking lot to do some fishing. Fortunately (I have ZERO desire to mess with that) the closest we can get to time travel is courtesy of watch brands like Vario. They’re making some seriously cool, vintage-inspired pieces that hit on nostalgic elements of classic watches while providing all the convenience of modern construction, movements, and water resistance. Really, you’re getting the best of both worlds – vintage looks paired with modern construction. Today, we’re looking at the Futurist. A new watch from the Singapore-based brand that features a 39mm case, old-school faceted crystal, and a unique crown position that really got me thinking about why the default position is somewhere around 3 o’clock. Let’s take a closer look at this green-dialed stunner. Case The first thing I noticed about the Futurist is the lack of traditional crown placement. No, there’s no crown at 3 or even 4 o’clock. It’s positioned at the top of the case, nestled between the lugs at 12 o’clock. The wide, flat crown has textured edges that make it easy to manipulate. Simply pull it out, set the ti...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here in the watch world of the 21st century, we’re living in the heyday of the vintage revival, with just about every brand returning to their archive, and trying to find the magic heritage design that will resonate with a contemporary audience. Seiko has one of the most extensive catalogs – vintage or modern – in the watchmaking world, and in today’s guide, I’ll be digging into the brand’s past and matching it with the watch that has carried its torch into the present. With the 10 vintage Seiko watches below, we’re going to run the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is an icon of Seiko’s past and present in its own right. 62MAS: Seiko’s first diver At the time of its introduction in 1965, the Seiko 62MAS was the first dive watch to ever come out of Japan. Featuring a deep grey dial with luminous, trapezoidal indices, a unidirectional dive bezel in black, and a date window at three o’clock, the 62MAS was water resistant 150 meters, and actually accompanied members of the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition from 1966 to 1969. For Seiko’s (and Japan’s) first diver, the brand has gone the heritage reissue route, releasing a faithful modern take on the watch with the Seiko Prospex SPB143. Despite being in the brand's more expensive Luxe tier, I would say the SPB143 is among the brand’s most popular watches at the moment. Even outside of its heritage connections, the SPB143 is a capable, versatile piece that’s as good-looking as it is ...
Deployant
The Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 is a limited edition released for Lunar New Year 2026. Here are our impressions of this novelty.
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Worn & Wound
Sometimes a watch comes along that feels like a culmination of something. The Atelier Wen Inflection, for anyone who has been following the brand or had a conversation with founder Robin Tallendier in the last few years, will likely have more than a whiff of that. After years of teases, hints, and lots of evidence of lofty ambitions, Atelier Wen’s full tantalum integrated bracelet sports watch is finally here. I don’t think it’s overstating to say that the use of tantalum in watchmaking has been a bit of an obsession for the Atelier Wen team. The metal, in a lot of ways, feels like one of the last remaining frontiers of high end watchmaking. It’s rarely used because it’s so difficult to work with, but has a bunch of desirable qualities that make it highly sought after by collectors. The color, for one, is unlike any other metal, often exhibiting a hint of a blue tint. It’s also heavy and dense, resulting in a completely unique wearing experience that, if you like a heftier watch on your wrist, is kind of addictive. We’ve begun to see more brands experiment with tantalum in their watches in recent years, including J.N. Shapiro and Audemars Piguet, and even more have used it as an accent in some way. But regular production tantalum watches are incredibly rare, and according to Atelier Wen, the Inflection is the first serially produced tantalum watch with a full tantalum bracelet. It’s been in the works at Atelier Wen since at least 2022, and follows the l...
Monochrome
After its comeback in 2022, Hautlence (an anagram of Neuchâtel) doubled down on unconventional time displays with the Sphere Series 1, followed by the darker Sphere Series 2, both pairing a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. Those watches reintroduced the brand’s TV-screen silhouette and reminded collectors why Hautlence sits in the front […]
Hodinkee
In Monaco, all watches are welcome, but some really stood out. Here's what we saw.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Timex Diver Here’s a nice little vintage Timex diver to start us off this week. Timex has definitely had a resurgence of late with them re-issuing older models for that retro look. Their original vintage offerings were definitely on the…more affordable side. That said, they are still cool and have some classic cache if you ask me. This 1970’s diver style watch has a chrome plated case that looks to be in good shape, and a plastic bezel that looks great. The dial and hands have a nice design to them and they are in excellent condition as well. The watch is powered by an early Timex non-quartz electric movement that runs fine per the seller. Neat piece that should be affordable and fun to wear. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7009-8109 Next up is a vintage Seiko 7009-8109, complete with original bracelet, box and papers. This is one of those everyday type Seikos, not really a dress watch and not really a sports watch, sort of an in betweener. The 37mm steel cushion case looks to be in nice shape, with some marks from aging but still showing the original brushed finish. The blue dial looks great, with simple stick markers and hands, and the always-present Seiko day/date win...
Teddy Baldassarre
Among all of Rolex’s bracelet options, the Oysterflex is perhaps the most unconventional and arguably the most misunderstood. Now marking 10 years on the market, and encompassing attributes of both a sturdy steel bracelet and a supple rubber strap, the Oysterflex has gone from being a curious, one-off outlier on a niche Yacht-Master model to an integral element of some of the Crown’s most buzz-worthy timepieces of recent years. Here’s what you should know about it. History of Rubber Watch Straps The road to the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet really started with the invention of vulcanized rubber in 1839, attributed to chemist Charles Goodyear (below, whose name is now immortalized in the automotive world as a leading manufacturer of tires). Vulcanized rubber - a compound of natural rubber with other compounds, which offered enhanced resilience and pliability - was originally used in mostly industrial areas, as in the manufacture of o-rings, gaskets, and (of course) tires. The discovery of fluoroelastomers as an alternative to the difficult-to-source natural rubber led to the rise of synthetic rubbers that had even more advantages, such as resistance to water, oils, and temperature extremes. These rubbers found their way into more everyday products such as shoes, belts, and flooring, while also expanding further into applications in the automotive industry, for door seals, hoses, and other parts. Synthetic rubber first emerged as an alternative for wristwatch straps in...
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Fratello
Although Airain only returned to the global horological stage in 2020, its roots, famously, go much further back. So much so, actually, that the classic Type 20 turns 70 this year. Naturally, Airain could not let that pass without an appropriate celebration, so here we have the Airain Type 20 70 ANS. Let’s have a […] Visit Introducing: The Airain Type 20 70 ANS - Celebrating The Model’s 70th Anniversary to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe approach to watchmaking has developed through a steady accumulation of choices. Since 1839, the manufacture has refined its mechanical language through proportion, regulation, and clarity in construction. Each calibre reflects priorities shaped by experience, built for durability, and adjusted for lasting performance. Understanding the technical evolution of Patek Philippe requires attention to the principles that govern its construction: structural integrity, material stability, and a consistent focus on functional accuracy. Many manufacturers embraced modernity through visible transformation and stylistic experimentation, while Patek Philippe evolved through careful integration of innovation that served enduring mechanical aims. Its development follows a logic defined by proportion, restraint, and the pursuit of lasting technical harmony. The modern-day, expansive manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva From Jean Adrien Philippe’s keyless winding system of the 1840s to the introduction of silicon components in the twenty-first century, progress has remained guided by internal reasoning and accumulated skill. Each movement expresses a study of mechanical relationships refined over time, where advances emerge from clarity of purpose and precision in design. The chapters that follow trace this progression through its historical sequence. Each period reflects a technical response to changing demands: the shift from pocket to wrist, the rise of automati...
Hodinkee
A modern, detail-driven field watch with scratch resistant titanium and a surprising price tag.
Monochrome
The Defy Skyline collection by Zenith has quickly become the modern pillar of the brand’s angular, integrated, and technical sports collection. We’ve seen the series stretch into complications and materials, most notably last year’s steel and black ceramic Skyline Tourbillons built around the high-frequency El Primero calibre 3630. The latest chapter elevates form and finish. […]
Teddy Baldassarre
All watchmakers with decades or even centuries of history have some designs, lines, or collections that become timeless icons, and others that get lost to history. Here in the 21st century, all of them are subject to various revivals and reissues before being shelved again. Today, we’re going in-depth with a watch that’s recently gotten the axe from Rolex’s contemporary catalog - and one that might be its quirkiest tool watch ever - the Rolex Milgauss. With its easily identifiable lightning-bolt hand and origins as a companion for scientists, the Milgauss has never quite achieved the years-long waitlist fandom that many other staples from the brand have achieved over the years, and back in 2023, the Crown shelved its unconventional tool watch from production. Maybe it’s an example of always wanting what you can’t easily have, but in recent years, the Milgauss has been attracting a renewed interest at odds with its overlooked reputation. Down below, we’re going to walk through the history of how the Milgauss came to be, explore how the collection has changed over time, and use one model as a case study for its sudden spike in popularity. So, if any of that piques your interest, or if you are already in the cult of Milgauss fandom, keep scrolling, and away we go. Rolex Milgauss History As we all are already well aware, Rolex's 120-year historical archive is full of record-breaking, boundary-clearing leaps in mechanical timekeeping. From releasing the first ...
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Monochrome
Dive watches span the spectrum: retro throwbacks that trade on romance, do-it-all desk divers that split time between meetings and marinas, and true instruments built for cold, dark water. This segmentation is very much in place at Oris, and the Aquis Pro 1000m belongs in the last category. Previously available with a manufacture Calibre 400 […]
Fratello
Minim is an independent watch brand founded by Chloe Chan, and just like her, it is a balance of East and West. According to the founder, the three watches in the debut MN01 collection reflect her journey from Hong Kong to London and are a contemporary tribute to traditional watchmaking. The inspiration from vintage pocket […] Visit Introducing: The Brand Minim And Its Three-Watch-Strong MN01 Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe surprises with an off-season launch, the Gondolo Serata Zebra Ref. 4962/200R-010. Based on the curvaceous model launched in 2006, the Zebra features a sapphire crystal dial framed by garnets on the bezel and lugs. The dial motif replicates the cloisonné enamel dial of the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-023 from the Rare Handcrafts collection of 2022, but here the technique and material are decidedly modern. Despite the radically different look, this is an evolution of the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G that has a smoked sapphire dial. Here the dial is also clear sapphire, but engraved, varnished, and then metallised to create the striking zebra motif. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Serata has been in Patek Philippe’s catalogue for almost 20 years but it never really gained prominence. Though the case shape is elegant, the dials on the earlier versions were quite plain. The Zebra is the opposite – vivid and striking – and it instantly stands out amongst Patek Philippe’s ladies offerings. The fact that the dial motif is based on the Rare Handcrafts Ellipse is a nice touch, though watch enthusiasts may be disappointed the movement is quartz. Patek Philippe presumably understands its clients and those clients probably want the convenience of a quartz movement. The sapphire dial technique, however, is interesting enough that it is likely to make its way into other models, which will be a good thing. Savannah sapphire The Gondolo Serata is a longsta...
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann continues to explain its vision of watchmaking from Glashütte with two new interpretations of its most complex watch, the Tourbillon Titanium and the Tourbillon Tremblage. These two new versions are mechanically identical to the original model, introduced initially in 2013 when the Grossmann calibre 103.0 established the brand’s first in-house tourbillon, notable for […]
Monochrome
Alpina gained a head start in the sports watch market in 1938 with its Alpina 4, a robust model featuring shock and water-resistant properties, anti-magnetic capabilities, and a sturdy steel case. The heavy-duty Alpiner Extreme, revamped in 2022, is the rightful heir of the Alpina 4. Designed for outdoor adventures, the Alpiner Extreme is also […]
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Monochrome
Presented in late 2024, the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm marked a significant milestone for Swiss brand Norqain, particularly with its new, exclusive 8k flyback chronograph calibre developed in partnership with AMT Manufacture. The young, independent, family-owned watch brand now introduces a new version of the model in bold orange and a stainless steel case. The […]
Fratello
When Jaeger-LeCoultre applies the Hybris Artistica and Grande Tradition labels, expectations rise. These watches are complicated, sure, but they are also theatrical displays of mechanical skill and decorative artistry. Today, the brand introduces two new creations under these banners, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 and the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Each interprets the […] Visit Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
This year marks Zenith’s 160th anniversary, which has already been celebrated with the launch of several blue-themed watches. With this specific collection, the brand is in for an encore of its best watches or movements, including the return of the legendary calibre 135. The story continues today with two very limited Defy Zero G models […]
Worn & Wound
When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche. And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. Ac...
Deployant
The Quest is the exhibition paying tribute to the Vacheron Constantin heritage opens in Singapore from 25 to 26 October 2025. Here is how to register.
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