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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Mar 22, 2023

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking – Reprise

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum continues the clever Spin Time Air concept while bringing two noticeable things to the table that weren’t there before: a slightly more toned-down Tambour case and micro-electronically lit luminous cubes. It shines in a very clever way as Elizabeth Doerr reports.

Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Initial thoughts I Mar 21, 2023

Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription

After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II Mar 20, 2023

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever

The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm. This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish. It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph. When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 Time+Tide
Seiko introduces Mar 17, 2023

GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385

Many new releases from Seiko rely on inspiration from the brand’s rich back catalogue, and the case of the new Prospex GMT 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation follows that trend. Basing their design on the 6159-7001 reference that followed the very first dive watch from Seiko, the 62MAS, the 1968 Diver’s GMT features the 4 o’clock crown, … ContinuedThe post GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Hits Mar 16, 2023

[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable

The Explorer has a way of sneaking up on you. It’s not all that flashy, has no real complexity to speak of, features slightly strange looking numerals at 3, 6, and 9, and clocks in at a diminutive 36mm in diameter. Yet, it’s a watch that gets under the skin over time and exposure. At least that was the case for the trio of Explorer owners at Worn & Wound. In this collector’s roundtable, Kat Shoulder, Zach Weiss, and Blake Buettner sit down to discuss three different references of the Explorer that have managed to find a spot in each of their collections.  Three references that represent two different generations of the Explorer, and two generations that manage to tell two very different stories about where Rolex is, and where they’ve been. Yet, somehow, these watches share an obvious core DNA that binds them. In this video, we find the modern references 124270 (steel), 124273 (steel & gold), and the 114270 (steel) from the early ‘00s. Each has their own unique appeal, and each says something specific about us as collectors. Don’t miss our full review of the Explorer 124270 from back when it’s retail price was $6,450. It’s safe to say the watch made a good enough impression to become a permanent part of the collection. Share your thoughts on these references or the Explorer in general in the comments below or on YouTube, and while you’re there, be sure to subscribe for more content like this.  The post [VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Ro...

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

VIDEO: The Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton Black Diamond is a gem-set marvel Time+Tide
Franck Muller Mar 12, 2023

VIDEO: The Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton Black Diamond is a gem-set marvel

The Vanguard Rose Skeleton Diamonds from Franck Muller is a display of the Master of Complications’ other claim to fame – gem-setting. Taking the form of the 2021 Vanguard Rose Skeleton, Franck Muller gives the Diamonds iteration a PVD treatment, which means additional difficulty in setting the 422 precious stones on the case, while the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton Black Diamond is a gem-set marvel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Nathan Schultz Worn & Wound
Oris TT1 Day Date reference Mar 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Nathan Schultz

Editor’s note: This week’s Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition, we welcome reader Nathan Schultz and his trio of unusual, unexpected, but entirely awesome watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. As watch enthusiasts, we have a penchant for forming opinions. We talk about what belongs on a dial, and where it should go. We discuss case dimensions, say “sweet spot” regularly, and debate if the Black Bay Pro is too thick. With time, forming an opinion about every aspect of a watch is inevitable. This opinion making frenzy is one of my favorite things about the hobby. When I have down time, I browse watches online. Do I buy them? Usually not, but it’s fun to dream. Through all this browsing and fantasizing, I’ve learned something unexpected about myself: I’m a lugs guy. My core lug opinion: the weirder the better. Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518 – ~$1,000 It started with the Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518. I did a double take the first time I saw this one. The lugs looked like an afterthought on a child’s art class pottery project. As if Oris spent so much time perfecting the big bubbly case, they forgot about the lugs until the last day, and just grabbed four spares from the lug bin.  The individual lug oddities on the 7518 seem nonsensical. Yet, combined, they just work. The case on this reference is beautifully rounded. It’s big and has a substantial pr...

Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Mar 9, 2023

Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust

Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case.  Initial thoughts I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking. While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case. Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo” The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment. On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style. Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justifi...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon Worn & Wound
Farer Moonphase Mar 3, 2023

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon

Farer has revealed a new collection called the Moonphase this week, and in true Farer style, have put their own unique spin on the design across a trio of references, all while acknowledging historic British figures in the process. The Moonphase collection features a big personality within a trim 38.5mm case that’s not shy on details itself, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the enormous moon depicted within the aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. Each example features a slightly different moon, inspired by the broad range of colors it can adopt depending on the conditions. The Farer Moonphase makes a big impression at a glance thanks to the larger moonphase aperture situated above the hand stack, but below and within the hour markers. It’s a similar layout to the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moonphase, among others, however Farer is bringing the design to a far more accessible and, dare we say, fun execution with their Moonphase. Each phase the moon goes through is indexed along the top arc of the aperture, providing a welcome practical nod to the romantic complication. The moon itself differs between each of the watches, going from light pink in the Burbidge, to warm yellow in the Halley, and finally a neutral eggshell in the Eddington. The depictions reference the different hues the moon takes to our eyes, viewing it through different atmospheric conditions and angles. The moons themselves are hand-painted in Geneva using grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. Fa...

The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks Mar 1, 2023

The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode

The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy Time+Tide
Omega s bronze gold Feb 28, 2023

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy

New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for comparison) Standard-production models use it strictly for the bezel, limited edition with decorative grinding dial has Goldbronze bezel and case 41mm x 12.3mm x 47mm dimensions, 500m depth rating, SW 300-1 movement. German manufacturer Sinn … ContinuedThe post The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite

Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold Time+Tide
Casio ak” Feb 26, 2023

The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold

The Casio G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now available in a Full-Metal yellow gold hued case and bracelet Casio are catching up with the modding community slowly, but with more originality and authenticity Solar charging and Bluetooth connectivity make it an extremely practical watch It may have taken Casio several years to catch up to the modding … ContinuedThe post The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6 Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Feb 24, 2023

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6

In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2023

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?

Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping.  So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on.  The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Feb 24, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery

Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue” Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody Feb 23, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue”

Grail Watch is proud to present Grail Watch 6, a dream collaboration of magnificent proportions! We are extremely privileged to partner with independent watchmaker De Bethune to create a deep blue-dialled version of their gorgeous DB25 Perpetual Calendar in a reduced case size of 40mm, first introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Our version is […]

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Accutron Day & Date Next Feb 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 19, 2023

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise

Deciding whether or not to restore a vintage watch is a tough decision to make. The internet is awash with tales of watches butchered by an incompetent independent watchmaker or, worse still, the brand itself. Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted. Refinish the case? Change the hands? Replace the crystal? Here is some help for you.

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut Deployant
Accutron Astronaut DEPLOYANT - Feb 18, 2023

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut

One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Blancpain Feb 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide

TGIF! But, before you gear up for your weekend fun, here are some highlights from this week – along with a reminder that now is the time to pick up our NOW Magazine. Ulysse Nardin drops a new Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold 45mm 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium faceted case inspired by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.