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Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 Apr 22, 2021

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea. However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that. When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about. Initial thoughts The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected. Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky. And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of...

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods?

As the largest brands within the fashion and watch industry wage war on fake luxury knock-offs, why do consumers continue to risk legal action for the mere look of success? While often stereotyped, counterfeit buyers are not a single group, argues Glyn Atwal  an Associate Professor at Burgundy School of Business in France, in this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The T+T Team pick the best watches from Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 21, 2021

The T+T Team pick the best watches from Watches & Wonders 2021

Editor’s note: With Watches & Wonders finally in the rear-view mirror (phew!), we wanted to take a moment to reflect on the new watches that we’d seen and highlight some stand-out pieces. More specifically, we asked the T+T team to pick their favourites by selecting one watch if their budget was unlimited and another at … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team pick the best watches from Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch Time+Tide
Swatch Apr 21, 2021

Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch

There are approximately 500 different First Nations Peoples in Australia, each with its own rich history, language, customs and artistic tradition. This is a mind-boggling fact little known or appreciated outside of Australia. Indeed, the cultural heritage of Australia’s Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Peoples is one of the oldest in the world, stretching unbroken … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches Apr 21, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire

One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Apr 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has modernised its novelties across collections, introducing next generation movements and new technologies into their creations. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is yet another example, with a more ergonomic and refined case as well as an all-new interchangeable strap system. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is comprised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Writing Apr 20, 2021

Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin

Writing this I feel the need to put on a double-breasted suit. But even then, I suspect that I still wouldn’t feel suitably attired for an encounter with Le Temps Celeste, a trio of wrist art within Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron’s upper echelon of historical and ultra-complex timepieces. Consider these mere examples of the bespoke possibilities … ContinuedThe post Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction Time+Tide
Mido owned Apr 20, 2021

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction

When Mido makes headlines for an auction result, you know it must be a special watch, and over the weekend a very special watch was sold. What was the watch? Well, it was a piece produced at the request of Ettore Bugatti, the Italian-born French founder of the eponymous automotive manufacturer. This specific watch, dated … ContinuedThe post Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2021

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right

Kickstarter can be a great place to find the weird and wonderful watches of tomorrow, as new brands battle for funding on what is basically a marketplace of ideas. A new player in the watch game who just hit their funding target is MVMNT, a brand who produces a range of different products with one … ContinuedThe post If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch Apr 19, 2021

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Friday, April 23, 2021, Sotheby’s first live watch auction of the year takes place in Hong Kong. Important Watches is a full-sized sale led by the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum with a turquoise “Stella” dial, which might just set the record for most valuable automatic Daytona ever sold at auction. But the 296-lot sale is diverse in the traditional manner of Hong Kong auctions, encompassing vintage Patek Philippe, modern grand complications, and an assortment of independent watchmaking. Here’s a roundup of a few noteworthy lots at the auction, including a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in exceptional condition, a pair of gorgeous pocket watches decorated with the very best of Geneva miniature enamelling, and the F.P Journe Coffret 38 made up of five watches with steel cases. The auction will start at 11 am local time on April 23 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2185 – Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch The middle decades of the 20th century were a golden age for miniature enamelling in Geneva, with the cities best watchmakers recruiting its best enamellers to decorate pocket watches. One example of such work is lot 2185, a yellow gold pocket watch made in 1948 by Vacheron Constantin that bears a miniature enamel painting by Hélène May Mercier (1910-1996), an artisan who learnt the craft with another famed enameller, Carlo Poluzzi...

Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2021

Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders

Gems, dazzle, diamonds and pizzazz. This year we have seen a delectable tableau of precious stones within, around, and pavèd on some of the flashiest new watches shown at Watches & Wonders. And while the entire Phygital viewing experience does leave a lot to be desired, the top maisons have managed to convey the blend … ContinuedThe post Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum Apr 18, 2021

#Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop

We’re BACK with the streetstyle-centric #kixntix, and what better way to celebrate some of the sharpest watches to come out of Watches & Wonders than with some fresh Nikes? This time I’m enamoured by the cutting-edge engineering of the new Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum collection. Powered by the tour de force 9004 movement – the … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Apr 17, 2021

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross (B&R;) got its start in 1992 with no-nonsense watches – it produced watches for French military and police units like GIGN and RAID – but has since broadened its repertoire by tapping sci-fi and military concepts and applying them in a more creative manner, resulting in watches like last year’s that had a dial resembling a fighter jet’s head-up display. The BR 01 Cyber Skull draws on a theme that’s familiar to B&R;. A recurring element in B&R;’s line up for over a decade – its first skull watch arrived in 2009, well before such watches became a fad – the skull motif was inspired by military emblems, often those of airborne units. But while the theme is similar, the Cyber Skull is in many ways a culmination of the idea, having been improved technically and refined aesthetically. Best described as a sci-fi interpretation of the vanitas, the Cyber Skull has both its case and dial in black ceramic, while being powered by a proprietary movement featuring an automation that opens and closes the skull’s jaws when the movement is wound. Initial thoughts A complete package in terms of construction and technical finesse at its price point, the Cyber Skull is more accomplished than the typical B&R; watch (though it does cost more than the typical B&R;). Almost all components were developed for the watch, from the case to the dial to the movement. The Cyber Skull’s design is original, despite the skull being somewhat fashionable in watches today. Essential...

The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570 Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II 226570 It’s Apr 17, 2021

The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570

It’s fair to say the Rolex releases last week were simply whelming – neither under or over. The highlight of the 2021 collection was the return of the 36mm Explorer and the first ever Explorer in a two-tone configuration. Many expected big changes for the Explorer II, after all, it is the 50th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Apr 17, 2021

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review

Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics.  Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2021

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders

This is turning out to be a year of stark contrasts. While some manufacturers insist on microscopic adjustments to tried and trusted case sizes and materials, the flipside of the horological coin is marked by bravado. A bravado in contrasts, from flashing neon sun-yellow ceramic to the demure elegance of brushed silver. Never has our … ContinuedThe post Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed Time+Tide
Rolex scene Apr 16, 2021

This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed

Before anyone gets heated, no I am not about to try and “cancel” Entourage. Whether or not the show would be able to survive the present cultural landscape is an entirely different discussion, and one we are not having here. This is about watches. Recently on Instagram stories, I noticed friend of Time+Tide, Brynn Wallner, … ContinuedThe post This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades!

What before COVID was a regular, and totally normal, occurrence – meeting up at a bar with friends to drink gin and talk watches – is, in 2021, wildly exotic. And the Time+Tide team enjoyed every minute of it, when we congregated with a group of Time+Tide Club members at Eileen’s Bar in Surry Hills … ContinuedThe post 5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021

Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Apr 14, 2021

Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021

Celebrating their 175th anniversary this year, Ulysse Nardin is a tried and true manufacture with rich heritage and history. Established in 1846, Ulysse Nardin built its name by fabricating some of the most reliable and high-quality marine chronometers. While most brands of their age remain stuck in the past, refusing to depart from their classic … ContinuedThe post Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Innovation SJX Watches
Massena Lab summed it up “There Apr 14, 2021

Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Innovation

Among panels discussions that took place Watches & Wonders 2021 was the session about the familiar buzzword – innovation. As wth the rest of the event’s broadcasts, the panel happened with all of the participants taking part remotely from around the world, but it still  managed to be efficient, relevant, and lively. What did we learn from it?  As a starting point, a quick overview of watchmaking’s history was essential. William Rohr, a long-time collector who’s behind startup Massena Lab, summed it up: “There is a tradition of innovation in watchmaking, whether for the precision of timekeeping, improved legibility or other aspects, it is still very much alive in the industry.” “Horology today is much more about passion and emotions than functionality per se,” added Patrick Tacq, a Belgian collector with diverse tastes, “Nonetheless, innovation is key to the industry for its survival in the 21st century and to keep the next generation involved in mechanical watchmaking.” The studio with moderator Mélanie Freymond (far right), Pascal Ravessoud of the FHH (far left), and author Benjamin Teisseire Stay relevant Precision timekeeping obviously does not need a mechanical watch, but many other aspects of the timekeeping experience can be improved through innovation. “Our goal at Ressence is to use technology to bring better ergonomics to our mechanical watches in order to create an even deeper relation between the customer and his watch,” emphasised...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 14, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...