Deployant
Quick impressions of Time to Watches & Masters of Time
While our coverage of WWG ends, Stanley popped over the road to the villa where Time to Watches and to IceBergues where Masters of Time showcased the independents.
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Deployant
While our coverage of WWG ends, Stanley popped over the road to the villa where Time to Watches and to IceBergues where Masters of Time showcased the independents.
SJX Watches
Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...
Ben's thoughts on where this grand complication sits relative to its cross-border rival and reigning champ in the category, the Patek Philippe 5374G.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models to read the full article.
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Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
SJX Watches
The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...
SJX Watches
Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...
Time+Tide
Is this the best affordable perpetual calendar around? For under US$10k, we're struggling to find an alternative.The post Frederique Constant continues its value-driven upmarket evolution with the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
Laurent Ferrier introduced the Classic Auto with a warm sandstone-colored dial just half a year ago. Today, we see the introduction of a new version. This time, the result is much cooler looking, completely changing the nature of this fine piece of Haute Horlogerie. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new Laurent […] Visit Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...
Teddy Baldassarre
I recently had the chance to drop in to the District Time watch show in Washington, D.C., a microbrand-centric watch expo that has grown steadily over the years, with this year’s edition featuring more than 50 brands. Loren Sciurba and his team from The Time Bum blog, along with co-sponsor McDowell Time, did a fantastic job bringing the horological heat to a traditionally underserved Mid-Atlantic market, and based on the wall-to-wall crowds over two days, the event was a resounding smash. I had a blast on this run-and-gun road trip, getting to spend the day with our intrepid media maestro, Danny Milton, connecting with old friends and making new ones in this celebration of watch culture at its absolute finest. Even with a larger space this year, lines at the booths were stacked, with queues for brands such as Christopher Ward extending halfway through the length of the hall. There was plenty to see and try on, with Danny having way too much fun posing with the Heisman Trophy at the Axia Time booth. And if you didn’t get the chance to check it out yourself, we’ve got you covered. Some of these watches are brand new, and some new to us with our first in-hand impressions, but it was fantastic to experience a lot of these microbrands up close, given the difficulty in seeing many of them first-hand before clicking the “Buy It Now” button. So here, in alphabetical order, are ten standouts that really won our hearts and minds, and will likely be lightening our wallet...
Fratello
Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Two of Britain's most beloved independent watchmakers team up for a whimsical take on a moonphase, melding CW's technical expertise with Mr Jones' art.The post Christopher Ward gets arty with a double-British collab, the Mr Jones Celestial limited edition moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
Well, I said “please” in the subtitle, so I hope the title didn’t come off too strong. But I do mean every word I wrote. Something snapped after having yet another edgy, sporty watch creation with some very particular and recognizable features show up at Fratello HQ. I couldn’t help but shout, “Stop releasing sports […] Visit Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Sale of rare wines, including first growth Bordeaux, as well as Burgundy and Spanish wines, expected to raise more than £1 million for the Jörg G. Bucherer Foundation
WatchAdvice
I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...
Quill & Pad
The Swatch Sistem51 has been around since Baselworld 2013, and has received a lot of positive and negative coverage. However, removing the noise, the Sistem51 remains a great technical achievement and will go down as a defining historical model. It’s not perfect, but for any watch lover, it is still worth considering.
Deployant
We go deeper into the SL3-S, as we bought the camera with two Leica lenses for our use to produce content for this website and our YouTube channel.
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Monochrome
It’s almost “Lights out, and away we go!” for the 2025 Formula 1 season, as this weekend it all kicks off Down Under. The 20 best drivers in the world will be chasing glory once more over the course of 24 races. Will Max Verstappen make it five in a row? Will Lando Norris clinch […]
Fratello
I have become somewhat of “the Fortis Novonaut guy” at Fratello. Not on purpose, I might add. But I must say I am quite a fan of Fortis’s latest version of its chronograph for space explorers. The Novonaut series debuted in October 2023 as the follow-up to the famous B-42 Cosmonauts Chronograph. After three initial […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Fortis Novonaut N-42 Titanium Legacy to read the full article.
Originally a low-key, perhaps even boring, vintage remake, the Commander 1959 Pixel Dial livens things up with a vibrant array of blue, purple, and pink squares printed on the black dial. The new Mido departs from our usual focus on higher-end mechanical watchmaking, but at a little over US$700, it combines affordability, good-enough quality, and fun. The blue and pink squares are actually Super-LumiNova on matte black, creating a striking illuminated pixel dial in the dark. The dial is housed in the classic Commander 1959 case characterised by a “Milanese” mesh bracelet, flat bezel, and domed acrylic crystal, which evokes an unmistakable mid-century aesthetic that contrasts with the funky pixel dial. Initial thoughts Several of Mido’s recent releases, including the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, combine inject vibrant colours and details into vintage-inspired designs. The new Commander 1959 continues this with its unmistakably 1950s-style case paired with a modern dial. Despite the dial’s array of colours, legibility is excellent thanks to the wide hands and markers. The Pixel Dial is a simple iteration of the original, and consequently remains affordable at US$740. Like many other watches in the same price range made by Mido’s parent Swatch Group (which also owns Tissot and Longines amongst others), the Commander 1959 is equipped with the Powermatic 80, a no-frills, economical movement that nonetheless provides an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Pattern...
The other day, I got to sit down and take a look at the new Bulova Snorkel collection. They caught my attention for a simple reason: they are literally eye-catching. The brand’s first foray into the new world of “hybrid” ceramics, they bring an unexpected dose of color to a well-liked, if a bit cult, vintage model: the amusingly named “Devil Diver.” In the video below, I go hands-on with this new collection and give you my thoughts on this trend of not-quite-plastic watches and, of course, the Snorkels themselves. The post Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
What would you expect from a proper city car? Probably the answer to that question is something practical, reliable, agile, compact on the outside and spacious on the inside, cheap to run and so. Surely, you wouldn’t think “V8!!”, now would you? Well, the madmen of Aston Martin’s Q-division did think “V8!!” back in 2018 […]
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