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Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Oct 21, 2021

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold

Some would suggest that the perfect dress watch has a long list of criteria. Less than 40mm, no complications, made from a precious metal, thin, etc. Although this framework is a good recipe, there should definitely be room for bending the rules, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold is a … ContinuedThe post Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight Revolution
IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready Oct 20, 2021

Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJX Watches
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

The Pink Dial Project auction lot overview: The indies, micros, and sleeper hits Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2021

The Pink Dial Project auction lot overview: The indies, micros, and sleeper hits

October 25th marks the inaugural launch of The Pink Dial Project, a fundraising auction involving a long list of top watch brands in partnership with our friends at Revolution, Fratello Watches, Loupe This, and The Eye of Jewelry. In an effort to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer, each brand has been prompted to spotlight … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project auction lot overview: The indies, micros, and sleeper hits appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2021

Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away… sorry, that’s the Star Wars nerd in me. If you search your feelings and feel the midichlorians around you, well, perhaps, you are looking for something Star Wars-related for your watch collection. Recently Star Wars and Kross Studio released a limited edition Death Star-inspired tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...

Beauty in the Beast - the Royal Oak Offshore Revolution
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was Oct 13, 2021

Beauty in the Beast - the Royal Oak Offshore

When it was first released in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was called The Beast. A bold and seemingly brutish take on its famous older sibling, the Offshore seemed destined to live up to its name. But it didn’t take long for people to find beauty in the beast. By the 2000s the Offshore had found its place in the world - comfortably strapped onto the wrists of superstars like Schwarzenegger and rap superstars like Jay-Z.

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 while Oct 4, 2021

T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague

Founded by a pair of Italian watch collectors, one of whom is vintage-watch dealer Andrea Marzari, T3 Special Watches is a young and unusual brand. T3 originated in the pair’s other hobby – both are motorcycle enthusiasts. They attempted to create a watch suited for long rides, but that ultimately proved fruitless. Instead, the two pivoted and conceived a vintage-inspired watch with an original design, and powered by a refinished Longines pocket watch movement from the early 2oth century, the Dague. The motivation behind the watch was simple – they wanted a watch that appealed to their taste in both design and mechanics, while being stylish and robust enough for everyday wear. After a year of riding their motorcycles with the prototypes, the duo debuted the first-generation Dague in 2018. Now the model has been refreshed with lacquer dials in eight vibrant colours ranging from turquoise to orange. Think of it as “Stella” dial meets a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, while powered by a vintage pocket watch movement. In lightweight titanium Initial thoughts The Dague is unusual for its mix of modern and vintage features. And it is not just vintage inspired – the movements are bona fide antiques, being based on Longines calibres from the 1920s and 1930s that were originally made for pocket watches. The use of vintage movements sets T3 apart from most micro-brands that rely on modern movements from makers such as ETA. That said, the use of refurbished vintage...

175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 3, 2021

175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise

Watch- and clockmaking has a long history in Germany, as evidenced by the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century timepieces from the Nuremberg/Augsburg area and the academic discussions of Peter Henlein, who is said to have made the world’s first pocket watch around 1505. But the country's roots in great watchmaking do not stop there: Elizabeth Doerr takes us on an historical journey of Glashütte, the birthplace of modern Germany's fine watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?

EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches Time+Tide
Sep 23, 2021

Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches

Conor McGregor is many things, but he’s not much of a pitcher. On Tuesday night he stepped up to the mound before the Chicago Cubs met the Minnesota Twins and joined the long list of celebrities apparently unable to throw a baseball in a straight line. As expected for a former UFC champ, his pitch was … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva Time+Tide
Tudor Manufacture Sep 21, 2021

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva

Having joined the Time+Tide team during the pandemic, the tantalising prospect of travelling to watch events and industry launches was for a long time taken off the table. Instead I was bound to my chair, where I would sit writing each day for hours until I became worried that my skin would actually graft onto … ContinuedThe post Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth Time+Tide
Zenith conquered Sep 16, 2021

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth

Things generally don’t work out too well when brands try to “own” a colour. Cadbury lost a five-year court battle to register their Dairy Milk shade of purple as a trademark for their chocolate bars, while the oil giant BP was similarly out of luck in its long-running bid to claim the colour green in … ContinuedThe post Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin ever Sep 10, 2021

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt

I first met Derek Pratt (1938-2009) at a sale held by Ineichen, a Zürich-based auction house, in 1975. He was in the company of Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer and trained watchmaker that took over long-dormant Danish brand Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in 1981 . A contemporary and friend of George Daniels, Derek was a talented English watchmaker who restored many of Baumberger’s outstanding historical pocket watches. Amongst them was then the most complicated Vacheron Constantin ever, the grand complication N°402833 made for King Fuad of Egypt in 1929, which Baumberger bought at auction – the watch was lot 202 at the October 7, 1979 sale at Galerie d’Horlogerie Ancienne (the business founded by Osvaldo Patrizzi that would later become Antiquorum). Baumberger would have trusted no one else other than Derek to restore that watch. In the following years, I visited Derek’s workshop several times with Peter, often in the company of illustrious watch collectors and enthusiasts, all fascinated by Derek’s knowledge of traditional watchmaking and his beautifully equipped workshop. Not long after, Peter recruited Derek to be consultant and technical director at Urban Jürgensen. As such, he was responsible for the company’s greatest technical achievements in pocket watches, which was the leading genre in watch collecting at the time. Derek at work According to Urban Jürgensen records and my personal archive, Derek completed around 34 watches for the...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Sep 2, 2021

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic

Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

Breitling And Bentley Part Ways, But How Will They Move On? A Look At The Past And Possible Futures Quill & Pad
Breitling Aug 29, 2021

Breitling And Bentley Part Ways, But How Will They Move On? A Look At The Past And Possible Futures

After nearly 20 years, Breitling and Bentley are parting ways. What started in 2002 when Breitling designed the dashboard clock of the Continental GT and was last renewed in 2018 is now coming to an end. Martin Green takes a look at the good and bad watches having emerged from this long partnership and speculates heavily on the future.

Please excuse us while we change in front of you – the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2021

Please excuse us while we change in front of you – the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging

It’s ok, we can admit it. The Time+Tide website has stayed the same for a very long time. While other sites have experienced a consistent series of – usually very good and worthwhile – updates and adaptations, we have opted for a different approach. In terms of our website design, we have partied like it’s … ContinuedThe post Please excuse us while we change in front of you – the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky) Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky)

When you think about it, this is all thuddingly inevitable. After all, if you can imagine a kink, the chances are that it not only exists, but there are already multiple live web-cams devoted to servicing it in eye-popping detail. And we’re not here to judge. As long as it’s safe and consensual and so … ContinuedThe post Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Habring2 Erwin “Star” – SJX Edition One SJX Watches
Rolex ref 6088 “Galaxy” Aug 5, 2021

Introducing the Habring2 Erwin “Star” – SJX Edition One

I’m pleased to reveal the very first 10th anniversary edition, the Habring² Erwin “Star”. Inspired by uncommon 1950s wristwatches that have long been a favourite of mine, the Erwin “Star” was almost three years in the making – my first email to Habring² was dated February 2019. It took longer than expected to realise, but I am proud of the result. Update August 5, 2021: Sold out, thank you for the interest. The genesis of the idea came to me a decade ago, when I first encountered the 36 mm “Japan Limited” that Habring² created for Shellman, a storied retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking in Tokyo. More recently, Habring² applied a similar formula to the Erwin LAB02 for Massena Lab. In the time since, I got to know Richard and Maria Habring, the husband-and-wife team behind Habring², and gained a deep appreciation of the brand uncommon approach to making quality watches accessible while emphasising practical-minded engineering. The foundation of the Erwin “Star” is Habring²’s trademark time-only wristwatch. Its proportions are almost ideal at 38.5 mm by 10.5 mm, while the A11s movement within features a jumping, or deadbeat, seconds. What makes it special – and instantly distinctive – is the “star” dial in a blue that varies with the light. The inspiration Watches from the 1950s with star hour markers have long appealed to me. Specifically, it is the Rolex ref. 6088 “Galaxy” that stands out in my memory. Produc...

My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Aug 4, 2021

My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

For as long as I have been collecting watches, there has never been a watch I’ve flirted with buying more than the Omega Speedmaster Professional. And if you’ve been collecting long enough, at one point or another, you’ve probably felt the same. The watch has such a large following that it almost becomes a rite … ContinuedThe post My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève and BCHH Collaborate on Double-Crown, Cloisonné World Time SJX Watches
Jul 23, 2021

Andersen Genève and BCHH Collaborate on Double-Crown, Cloisonné World Time

Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee has long been involved in watchmaking as a hobbyist, having set up two brands in the last decade, Maison Celadon for dress watches and Millechron for sports watches. While his earlier endeavours were powered by excellent Vaucher movements, Mr Chee’s latest venture is the most haute horlogerie to date. Taking its name from Mr Chee’s initials, the BCHH Celestial Voyager combines fine watchmaking with metiers d’art in series of pièce unique world-time wristwatches executed by independent watchmaker Andersen Genève. Cased in platinum, each of the seven watches in the series features a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a different stylised map. At the same time, the watches are accented by details like soldered lugs and a mother of pearl inlay on the back. Initial thoughts The Celestial Voyager is typical of Andersen’s products, meaning it’s classical in design and well made in an artisanal manner. But like many of Andersen’s watches, the Voyager is bespoke, so it reflects Mr Chee’s preferences and eye for detail. Take for instance the dial, which is elaborate in a discreet manner. The cloisonné enamel centre is the highlight, and most watches would stop there, but here the cities ring is made of sparkly aventurine glass. Elements like the cities ring play a supporting role, but getting them right often distinguishes the great from the good. The Celestial Voyager gets most of it right, and is one of the better looking...

Stories: A Legendary Iranian Pilot and His Rolex GMT-Master SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master Gunshots ring out Jul 19, 2021

Stories: A Legendary Iranian Pilot and His Rolex GMT-Master

Gunshots ring out with an unnerving cadence, and the chants of angry crowds ring across the city. It is Sunday, February 11, 1979. Come Monday morning, the country’s biggest newspaper hits newsstands with the front page proclaiming: “The Regime Has Disintegrated”. The provisional government collapsed the day before, with the military having returned to its barracks – leaving the Islamic Revolution triumphant. All day long that Monday, a young man ignores the revolutionary chaos as best he can, dedicating himself to picking up the phone every hour and dialling his father’s office at air force headquarters within Doshan Tappeh Air Base in Tehran. Each time his father answers and calmly reassures the son all is well. For a few months now, the son has tried to talk his father into leaving the country. The Shah had already fled and tensions were rising. But each time his old man responded in the same manner, “I am a soldier of this land and my duty calls me to stay.” Not only did the father remain in the country, he dutifully turned up to work every day. Nader Jahanbani (right) with Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, in the early 1970s; Nader has his GMT-Master on his wrist On that fateful Monday, the son calls at six in the evening and hears his father’s voice. He calls again at seven and his father picks up the phone. An hour later, he dials the number once again and listens to the phone ringing. No one answers. He tries again a few minutes later ...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jul 14, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France

Bell & Ross has long supplied timekeepers to various French military and police units, ranging from the bomb disposal team of the national civil defence agency to the tactical unit of the National Gendarmerie, GIGN. The brand was recently tapped to become the official watchmaker to the Patrouille de France, the famed aeronautics team of the Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace, the French Air and Space Force. To inaugurate the partnership, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, a limited edition designed in collaboration with the nine pilots of the aerobatics team. Cased in matte black ceramic, the chronograph has a dial in the colours of the French flag, along with the team logo at six o’clock. It is a 500-piece limited edition available to the public, while team members of the Patrouille de France will be issued with the same watch, but powered by a quartz movement. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross has made a variety of air force-unit watches in the past, as have other brands. Breitling, for instance, recently debuted an edition dedicated to the Red Arrows, the aerobatics team of the Royal Air Force. The Patrouille de France edition, however, stands apart in an important aspect: the members of the Patrouille de France – nine pilots and 35 engineers – are actually kitted out with an almost-identical watch. Produced in a run of 100 watches, the official-issue team watch is identical to the civilian version featured here, but it has a quartz movement ...