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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100 SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2022

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100

One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...

HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer Aug 1, 2022

HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo tends to steal the limelight a fair bit, seemingly making headlines whenever a new version is released. The Octo Roma may not garner the same amount of attention or record-breaking mentions, but it’s an equally important range for those who may prefer a slightly more restrained design language and something with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update Time+Tide
Seiko King Sumo collection gets Jul 29, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update

It’s almost impossible to point out a Seiko model that couldn’t be described as a classic in some way, but the Seiko Sumo has enjoyed a strong cult following since 2007 for good reason. Its rounded shape and aggressive dial make for a robust package that doesn’t look too vintage to be kitschy or too … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 222 Jul 23, 2022

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback

For whatever reason, vintage reissues have become the undisputed rulers of watch releases. It almost doesn’t matter who the brand is or what they’re re-releasing, but if there’s history then there’s hype. But, when the brand is as lofty as Vacheron Constantin and the watch is as iconic as the reference 222, watch lovers are … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive Time+Tide
Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient Jul 22, 2022

The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive

Due to a market saturated with great pieces that evoke the times of yesteryear, you’ve no short of options when it comes to a vintage-styled dive watch, regardless of budget. The Mido Ocean Star Tribute slots in towards the value-oriented end of the spectrum, all the while offering a design that’s directly derived from past … ContinuedThe post The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions Time+Tide
Edox Jul 17, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions

The world definitely doesn’t need more dive watches, but we certainly want them. No matter how saturated the formula may become, it doesn’t stop the pang of longing that some collectors feel when they see a particular execution that matches their tastes. The Edox SkyDiver taps into that 1960s tribute style while modernising several attributes, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock SJX Watches
Rado xically it Jul 15, 2022

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock

The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Birch family Evolution 9 Jul 12, 2022

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family

Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is ‘no purchase history’ the biggest watch flex of 2022? Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2022

Is ‘no purchase history’ the biggest watch flex of 2022?

“Just stop your cryin’, it’s a sign of the times, we gotta get away from here” – Harry Styles, ‘Sign of the Times’ ‘ The lyric above doesn’t pertain to the phenomena of the Watch Flex, but taken out of context, it’s oddly fitting. It wasn’t that long ago that Instagram and Facebook became quite … ContinuedThe post Is ‘no purchase history’ the biggest watch flex of 2022? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Jul 8, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics)

I didn’t quite believe it when people started claiming that purple was the new colour craze of 2022, but that fact is now undeniable. The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition is a real sign of change, given that such an iconic watch doesn’t often get updated to follow each and every trend. Striking … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Orange Diver TAG Heuer Jul 7, 2022

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver

TAG Heuer has not been shy about taking plenty of inspiration from their back catalogue and integrating it into their new releases. Rather than just rehashing the same old design, however, they’ve always brought something new and/or improved to the table. We first saw this with the Tribute to Ref. 844, as the same iconic … ContinuedThe post A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The G-SHOCK GBA800HTH-1A Hilltop Hoods Special Edition Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2022

HANDS-ON: The G-SHOCK GBA800HTH-1A Hilltop Hoods Special Edition

It doesn’t make you Australian if you’ve heard of Hilltop Hoods, but if you haven’t heard of Hilltop Hoods then you’re probably not Australian. The pinnacle of Aussie hip hop royalty have been partying with huge crowds since their formation in 1996, and are now officially the group with the most Number 1 albums in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The G-SHOCK GBA800HTH-1A Hilltop Hoods Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises Jun 22, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs

Grand Seiko has found success in modernising their back catalogue, taking case design cues from the 1967 original 44GS and powering them by their latest movement technology. As the fifth instalment in the 55th anniversary of the 44GS series, the Grand Seiko SBGP017 continues this trend, though it brings previously seen elements together in fresh … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Now Jun 15, 2022

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic

A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price Time+Tide
Ming based supremacy binding Jun 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price

To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2022

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…

There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Jun 4, 2022

Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S

The first battery-powered watch, and the one that graced the famous wrists of Elvis, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones – still doesn’t quite sum up the Hamilton Ventura for me. Throw in a line about its military-derived styling somehow combined with stepped Art Deco-like lugs, and we’re getting somewhere. Today, the Ventura is no … ContinuedThe post Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Reimagines May 27, 2022

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord

On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover Time+Tide
Breguet Blue makeover Tradition May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover

Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition Time+Tide
Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition

Watch brands collaborating with motoring manufacturers is nothing new, and there’s some lofty competition out there – 2020 even saw the release of a million-dollar Bugatti tie-in from Jacob & Co, so what could possibly top that? Well, two Italian icons of design and engineering have teamed up to bring the Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph Ducati … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! Time+Tide
May 23, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants!

Microbrand releases can often be just an eclectic mix of design trends thrown together, or a wild attempt at doing something different without considering what people actually want. The Biotic Formicidae is a rare example of an original watch design that has a clear aesthetic vision without second-hand trend-hopping, and of all things, it takes … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic May 21, 2022

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection

The Big Bang Integral seems to exist as a masterclass of materials and design for Hublot, with the brutish yet refined case shape meeting the integrated blocky bracelet to show off as much of their coloured ceramic as possible. Adding to their wide array of available colours come these new versions in an army olive … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces May 20, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

Having recently launched the second of its models designed by Takashi Murakami, Hublot returns with a collaboration with an another artist, British fashion designer Samuel Ross. The result is the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, a watch that is very different from the rest of the lineup, thanks to the open-worked honeycomb pattern applied across the watch. Initial thoughts The design of the Samuel Ross is unexpected and most notable for being a significant evolution of the Big Bang. While Hublot’s signature model was criticised in the past for being too reminiscent of a Royal Oak, the Samuel Ross is its own watch. It’s no doubt an acquired taste, but it is different. But for anyone who likes big, bold watches that are complicated – and look the part – this is mission accomplished. The extensive use of the honeycomb grid as well as orange rubber give it an aggressive look that sets it apart from other Big Bang Tourbillons. The bezel, for instance, isn’t the usual round affair but is instead an elongated octagon. More prominent is the extension of the honeycomb grid to the edge of the case, leaving the orange rubber to trace the outline of case, evoking a watch worn on a “Bund” strap, which enhances the sporty appearance. It’s through limited editions like the Samuel Ross that demonstrates ones of its key strengths, it versatile manufacturing prowess. The brand’s in-house expertise in engineering and production means an ability to make a great variety of ...