Hodinkee
Introducing: An Iron-Ore Inspired PanoLunarTourbillon From Glashütte Original
A new dial color to commemorate the brand's new dial-making facility in the famed German town for watchmaking.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The New Platinum & Salmon Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
The small German town of Glashütte is steeped in watchmaking history, as we all know. No less than 12 brands, from high-end to more accessible, are nestled there, making it the historic and beating heart of German mechanical watchmaking. Being able to bear the town’s name on one’s dial is also something quite special, as […]
Deployant
New: Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Saxon watchmaking and their new dial manufacture in the city with a new PanoLunaTourbillon.
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon
GO celebrates a milestone for German watchmaking (plus its new dial manufacture) with a heavy hitting flying tourbillon.The post Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Seiko is off to the races with a limited, lilac Speedtimer Solar for the World Athletics Championships
A solar chronograph with a lovely purple dial. The post Seiko is off to the races with a limited, lilac Speedtimer Solar for the World Athletics Championships appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Junghans Meister Classic - A Great Looking Dress Piece & Max Bill Alternative
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The Philippe Dufour Simplicity
As regular readers know, the idea of the Behind the Lens series is to present great watches as seen from a variety of visual perspectives. Mostly, I feature watches on loan from my generous friends, but this time let’s look at a piece that I am very fortunate to have in my own collection: the legendary Simplicity by Philippe Dufour in a 37 mm white gold case with white lacquer dial.
Quill & Pad
Deeper, Further, Faster: Why do Some Dive Watches have Helium Escape Valves?
Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. And the helium escape valve was invented to push one of those limits as watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains.
Fratello
The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer
In its original form, the Amida Digitrend is already quite an impressive wristwatch. Its unusual shape and size make it the perfect conversation starter. And that’s not even considering the dial with the sapphire prism and the jump-hour module behind it. Well, get ready for an even bolder iteration because here’s the new Amida Digitrend […] Visit The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary
Ressence is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its retailer in the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, in distinctly granular manner with the quirky, sand-filled Type 9 S75. A limited edition of only 20 pieces, the S75 is based on the recently introduced Type 9, the brand’s minimalist, entry-level model. The dial is coated with sand sourced from the seven Emirates that make up the desert country in the Arabian peninsula. Initial Thoughts Typically, sand, or any sort of grit for that matter, in watches is undesirable, but Ressence is challenging that perception. The hands do not cut through the sand as it may first appear. Instead, the sand is suspended in a clear adhesive, bonding it to the titanium discs that show the time. This might be somewhat disappointing for those who hoped that Ressence had overcome the physics of materials, but perfectly logical. Filling the watch with loose sand would create a more dynamic dial, it’d also require enormous torque to push through. Since sand is a coarse and rough natural abrasive that gets everywhere, it’d likely destroy the module anyway. Past Seddiqi editions by other brands did actually have loose sand within the case, but contained within a sealed module entirely separate from the movement and dial. While the sand might seem like a gimmick on the face of it, the granular surface adds a different, earthy, and even organic, texture to the traditional Ressence aesthetic of sleek, smooth, and mechanical. Moreover, cl...
Time+Tide
Ressence celebrates Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a literally sandy Type 9
Real sand from all the seven Emirates features on the dial of the new Ressence Type 9, celebrating 75 years of Seddiqi.The post Ressence celebrates Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a literally sandy Type 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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These are hands down the best vintage Carrera re-issues since the real thing. But which one is best?
SJX Watches
Louis Erard & Konstantin Chaykin Return with “Time Eater” III
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Eps. 103 + 104: We’re Live!
A couple of weeks ago, we did a little experiment. Rather than filming and editing A Week in Watches, as had been the method for the previous 102 episodes, we live-streamed it. Yup, off the cuff, come as you are, talking right into the camera: A Week in Watches Ep. 103: Live on YouTube. It went well, as far as we can tell. We quickly learned a thing or two, such as not to put large microphones in front of our faces. As that episode was an experiment in the format, we didn’t let anyone know we were doing it, though there was still a decent turnout. You can check that episode out here. As the experiment was successful, we went live again this past Wednesday at 5 PM Eastern for A Week in Watches, Ep. 104. On this episode, Zach Weiss was joined by Worn & Wound Contributing Editor Griffin Bartsch. They covered several releases, including a new Seiko Presage, a duo of J.N. Shapiros, a killer new Zenith, and much more. They also took questions live from the virtual audience, which adds a whole new dimension to AWIW, and had a call-in from Zach Kazan, who discussed some of his recent popular articles. Check out that episode below. We believe this new format will be successful, so expect another episode in a couple of weeks. We’ll be sure to post the time and date on social media, W&W;+, as well as on YouTube, so be sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss it. These episodes are quite literally live, so we hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Eps. 103 + 104: We...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces the Redentore Utopia, Featuring the Italian Made V5000 Caliber
It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement. In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist. On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...
SJX Watches
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is Summer Ready
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Video
The new DOXA Sub 300 is slimmer, COSC-certified and more refined than its tool origins
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay 54 Review
Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...
Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”
If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new MeisterSinger 24H Enamel Edition
MeisterSinger is famous for its portfolio of single-handed watches, and the latest 24H Enamel Edition is no exception, but a white enamel dial, single revolution every 24 hours and the ability to moonlight as a compass helps it really stand out. The philosophy of the brand is to slow down a bit and appreciate time […]
Fratello
Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ
It’s hard to believe that the Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted back in 2019 as part of the Spezialist collection. The watches were added to the permanent catalog, honoring the brand’s Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969. Since the initial release, new dial colors and materials have been added. For the smallest offering in the […] Visit Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Everything you need to know about gold watches
All that glitters is not gold, but after reading this, you may have an easier way to tell apart gold watches.The post Everything you need to know about gold watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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5 Best Dress Watches | Watchfinder & Co.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain SPB497
Seiko has shown great skill and creativity when it comes to its watches, mostly in the art of dial making. Ranging from simple to complex, there’s always an interesting story surrounding the inspiration and the creation of its dials. Whether it be a texture of Edo silk, or the shift in colour in the waters […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary
As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]
Hodinkee
Review: 'The Making Of A Status Symbol, A Business History of Rolex' Translated To English For The First Time
Pierre-Yves Donzé's business history of Rolex documents how the Swiss brand embraced the idea of individual success while making its watches the ultimate status symbol.
Time+Tide
Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition
The first Big Crown ProPilot without a date window, this full lume dial Oris has a bear-shaped Easter egg.The post Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hands-on – A Personal Take on the Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar, From a Fan of the Explorer II
Here, at MONOCHROME, we write about watches. That’s our job. However, before that became what we do on a daily basis, we all shared a sheer passion for watches, with, of course, our personal preferences. Our founder, Frank, is well known to be a fan of independent watchmakers and monochromatic watches (obviously…) I, for instance, […]
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