Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 54: Jack Forster
Our editor-in-chief talks about the winding road to becoming a watch journalist, his early days in New York City, and the pocket watch that changed his life.
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Hodinkee
Our editor-in-chief talks about the winding road to becoming a watch journalist, his early days in New York City, and the pocket watch that changed his life.
SJX Watches
The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...
Time+Tide
The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Polaris collection was launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre last year to pay tribute to the dive watches produced by the brand in the ’60s and ’70s. Instantly recognisable with the super-compressor style case and internal bezel, the Polaris has been given a new look in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. What makes this new edition different can … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For almost every watch enthusiast, the first sojourn into the world of the vintage watch market is two things: fun and inexpensive. The thrill of owning something that was created and worn several decades ago, the history, the gorgeous patina and, in most cases, the value for money – it just seems like there are … ContinuedThe post Buying vintage Rolex – Utilitarian ideal without waiting list ordeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s something really appealing about a well-priced travel watch, and the Atlas GMT, from micro brand Monta, certainly fits that bill. If you’re not familiar with Monta, they’re a relatively young brand inspired by the well-priced tool watches of yesteryear and, I’ve got to say, they’ve done a really good job of delivering on that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Monta Atlas GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We go up close to the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon, and give our review after living with the watch for two weeks.What is it like? We reveal all.
Time+Tide
Welcome to the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey! That time when we put some hard-hitting questions into a survey program, work some internet magic and set it free, for all you good people out there to answer. One lucky Australian survey respondent will win a TAG Heuer Autavia chronograph for their troubles. Take the survey now … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In this article we will take a look at a special watch produced for a client in Singapore, which also happened to be a way to give new life to a loose movement that had long lost its case. Although this watch was recently finished, the project actually started many years ago. When searching for interesting movements to restore I came across a vintage Patek Philippe movement in Australia. It was probably produced between 1905 and 1910 for a pendant watch. I liked the style, shape and size; it reminded me a lot of the great pocket watches Patek Philippe used to do, but in wristwatch size. I thought it could one day make a nice wristwatch for someone appreciates its good old-fashioned quality. But the movement was missing the case – probably melted down in the past for the scrap value – while the dial and hands were beyond repair. So a potential customer would have to design those parts from scratch. Because the movement was in relatively bad shape and not running, I could even afford to buy it before finding a potential client. The beautifully classical movement looking for a home But several years later, a client came along. It was a husband and wife who had previously ordered another watch, a pocket watch conversion with an old Moser movement in a hand-made silver case with a sapphire dial featuring gold indexes and hand-made hands. The pocket watch was commissioned by the wife both as a wedding anniversary gift for the husband and as an heirloom to be ...
Time+Tide
Seiko is a brand with a lot of love in Australia - their watches, especially the divers, are incredibly popular, due in equal parts to their good looks, virtual indestructibility and high ratio of bang vis-à-vis buck. So, we’ve got no doubt that this Australia-only limited edition - a two-tone twist on the classic turtle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Aussie-only Seiko Prospex SRPD50K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Over the past five years, a new generation of bosses has taken over the watch world. Many share common traits that distinguish them from the preceding generation of chieftains: a charming informality and a nose for courting the next generation of consumers – millennial and otherwise. Patrick Pruniaux is a leading member of his class, who was tapped to run Ulysse Nardin in August 2017. A year later, he was elevated to run Kering’s watch division, which meant taking on leadership of Girard-Perregaux as well. Mr Pruniaux has done a remarkable job of revitalising Ulysse Nardin – not just with fresh marketing, but more crucially with new watches that make sense. He’s streamlined the range of offerings and introduced more accessible watches, with much of his efforts focused on arguably the most important Ulysse Nardin watch of the modern era – the Freak. His strategy for the Freak is notable for being all-encompassing, ranging from aggressively affordable pricing with the Freak X, while pushing hard at the boundaries of material science and engineering, culminating in the Freak NeXt. The Freak X Mr Pruniaux took a surprisingly roundabout way to arrive at one of the top jobs in watchmaking. He started in drinks and spirits at Diageo and then Moët-Hennessey. He then entered the watch business with TAG Heuer, where he rose to lead retail and sales. But the most instructive phase of his watchmaking career, ironically, was at Apple. The computer maker r...
Time+Tide
There’s always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan’s heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety … ContinuedThe post “The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In the last few years Montblanc has made quite the pivot away from the dressier end of the watch spectrum, to some sportier, more robust models. Case in point, the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph from a few years ago now. While Montblanc is not a mainstream chronograph brand, with watches this smart, it’s … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last night I went to see the new Quentin Tarantino film, Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, and while plot tension and A-grade acting kept me on the edge of my seat, I was kept guessing by what Brad Pitt’s character was wearing on his wrist. So what was Brad Pitt’s watch? As the movie … ContinuedThe post What was Brad Pitt’s watch in the latest Tarantino thriller? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s a lot to like about a rubber strap - especially if you live somewhere hot, wet or humid. The natural material is exceptionally hard-wearing, and comfortable to boot. The only issue is that in the past there’s been a perception that rubber is a strictly utilitarian affair and, as such, quality is of a … ContinuedThe post Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In this episode, we sit down with Christian Selmoni of Vacheron Constantin to delve into the brand’s past, from old vintage timepieces to its history of collaborations.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When we’re talking about fine watches, our eyes are typically drawn to Switzerland and (to a lesser extent) Germany and Japan. But occasionally you can find some quality closer to home. That was the case when the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer landed on my desk around this time last year. The quality (especially … ContinuedThe post Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing our first collboration with German watchmaker, Sinn: the 155 Bundeswehr “Dark Star”, our humble tribute to the legendary 1550 SG Bundeswehr.
Time+Tide
Brand boutiques are pretty fun spots to visit as a watch lover. Because, choice. And it may surprise you to learn that Tissot very nearly has a boutique for every single day of the year - 361, in fact, including this shiny new example in MidCity Shopping Centre in Pitt Street Mall. It will house by … ContinuedThe post The three watches that caught our eye at Australia’s first standalone Tissot boutique, located in the heart of Sydney CBD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: “Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies.” So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I’ll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: This year we’ve been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it’s worth remembering that this shiny new star isn’t the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph … One of the marks of a strong watch design … ContinuedThe post The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection - first released in 2018 - is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
After bringing Laureato firmly back into the spotlight, Girard-Perregaux increases the case size and makes the watch look more sporty. Laureato Absolute is entirely clad in black PVD-treated titanium and water-resistant to 300 metres.
Time+Tide
Watch companies are pretty happy to jump on board as sponsors of all number of sporting teams, including Formula 1, boxing or tennis, for the obvious reasons that they have massive viewerships and highly engaged fans. One sport that definitely isn’t structured as a spectator-friendly sport is triathlon, begging the question as to why the … ContinuedThe post Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the latest instalment of our glossary series (you can see all our educational style content here), we tackle one of the most overlooked (and most important) elements of a watch. The bit that attached it to your wrist – buckles and clasps in all their forms … The tang buckle, also known as the … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is a real insider watch. From the dial it looks much like many other Lange watches, but really, it’s something quite special. It’s a watch that’s been around since 2016, but this year we were treated to a chic new version, in white gold with a black … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer’s latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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