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Le Locle

The Swiss Jura town where Daniel Jeanrichard planted watchmaking c.1700. Home to Ulysse Nardin, Tissot, Zenith, TAG Heuer HQ.

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Jul 3, 2020

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Watch auction season is in full swing, two months later than its usual May timing. Phillips will be staging The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X on July 10, with 269 lots slated to go under the hammer. The catalogue includes a wide-ranging line-up of big-ticket complications, as well as some interesting examples of independent watchmaking. Below we take a look at a couple of highlights from the complications category, and we’ll look at some of the independents next week. You’ll find the full auction catalogue here. For a more personal take on the highlights: myself and Phillips’ head of watches, Thomas Perazzi, will be hosting a webinar to discuss the highlights from the sale on July 6 at 4:00 pm GMT+8. Registration is required to attend, and you can do it here. Lot 816 – A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” in honey gold This A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” was part of the 165th Anniversary Homage to F.A. Lange three-piece set made in 2010 to commemorate the 165 years since the birth of the company’s namesake founder. Made up of the Tourbograph, Lange 1 Tourbillon, and 1815 Moon Phase, the set was characterised by honey gold cases and guilloche dials. The most complicated Lange wristwatch aside from the monumentally unwearable Grand Complication, the Tourbograph incorporates a tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and fusée-and-chain transmission. It was first launched in 2005 as a limited edition of 50 with a platinum case, with th...

Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest Vs Oris Aquis Jun 18, 2020

Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared

We want to start this post with a shoutout to some YouTube commenters by the name of Nicolas, Hani and Lee. This trio recently commented on the Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green video and each echoed the same sentiments, which to paraphrase, are: “We are in doubt between this Longines and an Oris Aquis.” … ContinuedThe post Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party Time+Tide
Breitling Party It’s Friday Jun 11, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party

It’s Friday, and usually that means a message from me regarding all the great things that happened during the week. But today, in addition to that, which is captured in the top four stories to check out below, I want to look forward. To tomorrow. Because at midday Australian time, and 7pm LA and 10pm … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr On The 2020 Portugieser Collection, COVID-19, And His All-Time Favorite Portugieser Quill & Pad
IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr Jun 10, 2020

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr On The 2020 Portugieser Collection, COVID-19, And His All-Time Favorite Portugieser

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr thinks that the COVID-19 pandemic will have a lasting effect. “The digital proximity we are experiencing right now may have a lasting effect on how we communicate with our customers, partners, and journalists. I think it is likely that we will put an even bigger emphasis on video content in the future.” Not only does Martin Green discuss this topic with the manager, he also discovers Grainger-Herr's all-time favorite Portugieser.

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Cristiano Ronaldo Vs. Lionel Messi, and we’re calling it a thrashing Time+Tide
May 29, 2020

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Cristiano Ronaldo Vs. Lionel Messi, and we’re calling it a thrashing

Celebrity Watch Death Match is back, and we’re kicking off from the centreline with the watch collections of two of football’s biggest ever names – Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi. These two princes of the pitch have both been described as the GOATs of the modern era; however, if you’re going off stats alone, Leo … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Cristiano Ronaldo Vs. Lionel Messi, and we’re calling it a thrashing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys SJX Watches
May 29, 2020

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys

A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...

Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening Quill & Pad
May 26, 2020

Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening

The GPHG Academy will soon be making its submissions for the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. As Ian Skellern began putting rough lists of watches together, he realized that he was likely only aware of a fraction of watches that are both eligible and noteworthy. And as his favorite niche sectors are likely to be different than yours, many of you will know about watches that he, and perhaps other Academy members, don’t. So please let us know your favorite new watches in the categories here and we'll take them into consideration.

Omega Introduces Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup SJX Watches
Panerai until May 21, 2020

Omega Introduces Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup

The world’s most prestigious yacht race, the America’s Cup has been sponsored by a variety of watch brands, which was Panerai until the last instalment – and to confuse things even more, the competing teams each have their own watch sponsors. Having been a backer of defending champion Team New Zealand for the last two decades, Omega now back to being a sponsor of the entire event as official timekeeper for 36th America’s Cup that’ll take place in 2021 off the coast of Auckland in New Zealand. Since the last time Omega was the official race timekeeper was in 2003, the brand is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup, no doubt the first of several editions for the event. Initial thoughts With event-specific limited editions being an Omega favourite, this isn’t going to be the only America’s Cup edition. At the same time, the red-white-and-blue livery has been used on other watches. In short, the Planet Ocean America’s Cup isn’t going to be a particularly unique edition. But the watch itself is a strong proposition. Omega watches usually offer good value for money, combining high-tech mechanical watchmaking and high-end materials, which is the case for the Planet Ocean line at large. Though the America’s Cup model is a limited edition, it costs only about 10% over the standard model. So if you want a Planet Ocean but want something a bit more special than the stock offering, this is a good choice. A high-spec instrument...

Warning: Billie Eilish’s custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be unseen… Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be May 19, 2020

Warning: Billie Eilish’s custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be unseen…

Young Queen of Cool Billie Eilish is known for her avant-garde fashion sense, firmly cementing oversized hoodies, fluorescent hair and dad sneakers into vogue. The five-time Grammy winner and two-time Guinness World Record holder also has a fondness for jewellery - and lots of it. She’ll regularly be snapped with fingers stacked with rings, wrists loaded … ContinuedThe post Warning: Billie Eilish’s custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be unseen… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man) Time+Tide
May 18, 2020

G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man)

** It is mandatory that all readers of this post be listening to this song while they do it. Thank you for complying.** We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again – G-Shock are losing the plot, and we’re loving it. And now, to cut straight to the chase, as direct as a frickin laser … ContinuedThe post G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver Time+Tide
May 11, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver

Editor’s note: It’s somehow Monday again, and while that would normally mean feelings of malaise and discontent, since this pandemic shifted into top gear and lockdowns now rule the lay of the land, Mondayitis isn’t really a thing anymore. Which is good, because the start of the working week also means it’s Micro Monday, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

There is a scientific reason that you ache for new watches, this is it Time+Tide
May 4, 2020

There is a scientific reason that you ache for new watches, this is it

If you’re reading Time+Tide, then you probably already own a watch. In fact, I suspect, you’re likely to have a fair old few. There’s that slimline dress watch that nestles so comfortably beneath your shirt cuff. The rugged diver that you love in spite of the fact that you barely know how to snorkel. Perhaps … ContinuedThe post There is a scientific reason that you ache for new watches, this is it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 May 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together

Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker Time+Tide
Bremont Martin-Baker Watch customisation May 2, 2020

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker

Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it’s still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you … ContinuedThe post Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds”

Continuing with the musical theme that begun last year with Les Cabinotiers ‘”La Musique Du Temps”, an assortment of one-off, chiming watches, Vacheron Constantin unveils Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” at Watches & Wonders 2020, the first time-only watches of the line that showcase the brand’s dexterity in traditional decorative crafts. The “Singing Birds” watches interpret the overmatching musical motif artistically with songbirds, rather than literally with striking watches as most of last year’s watches were. Available in four different unique executions, the watches feature dials that combine an engine-turned time display with champleve enamelling, each depicting a different bird – hummingbird, blue jay, blue tit, and robin. From left: Blue Tit, Blue Jay, Hummingbird, and Robin But the watch is more than brightly-feathered aesthetics, it also features a wandering hours display. Though the complication originated 17th century clocks, it remains relatively rare, with the most famous modern-day examples being the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel and Urwerk. Vacheron Constantin has only ever utilised the wandering hours on limited edition or unique timepieces, like the Métiers d’Art Savoirs Enluminés of 2016. The current hour is displayed across an arc marked out in minutes – as the hour “wanders”, it simultaneously indicates the minutes. It takes an hour for the number to cover the arc, and as it disappears on the far right, the next hour...

INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock Apr 21, 2020

INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock

The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you’ve never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I’ve seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2020

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon

Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...

In-Depth: Cambodia’s First Watchmaking School SJX Watches
Apr 20, 2020

In-Depth: Cambodia’s First Watchmaking School

When I first got wind of the newly-opened watchmaking school in Cambodia, I was surprised. And when I found out the school was a world-class institution fully equipped with brand-new, top-of-the-line equipment and staffed by veteran instructors from Switzerland, with local students studying for free – I was sceptical. I am ashamed to admit, I was wrong. There is a world-class watchmaking school in Phnom Penh, one with ambitions that go well beyond merely training technicians to overhaul watches. Freshly set up and filled with the very best equipment – including brand-new, full-spec Schaublin lathes and the latest Leica microscopes – the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center is a no-expense-spared project that’s likely the most impressive watchmaking academy outside of Switzerland. And another classroom, with the micro-mechanics machine shop at the back Backed by a local real estate conglomerate, the school will conduct a two-year programme similar to the de facto industry standard, the 3,000-hour course offered by Swiss academy WOSTEP (short for Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program). Both theoretical and practical, the school’s syllabus encompasses the theoretical, for instance lessons on the history and culture of watchmaking, as well as benchwork, including machining, micro-mechanics, and production of components like the winding stem and balance staff. At the same time, because the school is the brainchild of timepiece co...