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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jul 18, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial.  Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality.  Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko there’s Jul 14, 2023

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT Worn & Wound
Farer Finds Jul 6, 2023

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT

The latest addition to Farer’s lineup of GMT watches is a balancing act between simplicity and the brand’s signature use of vibrant colors and bold accents. Farer is no stranger to dynamic dial colors, peculiar color combinations and large numeral displays that have separated Farer amongst the pack with their own distinguishable design language. It’s not just for looks either as their dial aesthetics account for prime legibility, both in daylight and low light situations thanks to the heavy dose of lume usage they’re notorious for, as well. It’s always an intriguing release when Farer releases a white dial because it allows the brand to explore minimal ways to apply color without sacrificing the Farer panache. With this new limited edition release, the Farer Palmer GMT hits the sweet spot in both simplicity and case size making it their most appealing GMT yet. The Palmer GMT doesn’t just use a standard tone of white for the dial; we are talking about Farer after all. Farer is calling the Palmer dial color “pearlescent opaline” which gives the dial’s surface a slightly creamier tinge. Each hour marker is raised from the dial thanks to the block of SuperLuminova that makes up its construction and is hit with a thick application of black paint on its top surface. This in combination with the black outlining of the handset maximizes legibility against the white, excuse me, pearlescent opaline dial. The use of numerals are much more subdued than were used to w...

Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ Time+Tide
Chopard team up Jun 30, 2023

Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’

The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ is a 50-piece limited edition It comes with a robust bead-blasted titanium case, frosted black dial, orange accents, 60-hour COSC-certified movement This second edition succeeds their initial 2021 collaboration These days, most brands specialise in a specific segment of watches. Some skew towards strictly … ContinuedThe post Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 Time+Tide
Maen Jun 29, 2023

Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37

Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ teams up with Maen for an unexpect take on the Manhattan 37 The integrated-bracelet gets a literal cherry on top of its handset, as well as a new magenta dial The 37-piece limited edition is powered by an élaboré-grade Sellita SW200 Every chance Romaric André gets to add his twist to … ContinuedThe post Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB

Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated.  Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph.  Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition SJX Watches
Jun 27, 2023

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition

The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second SJX Watches
Zenith Jun 26, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second

Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...

YEMA’s Racing-Inspired Collection Makes Its Way to the WEC Grid with New Alpine Endurance Team Partnership Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Monaco Jun 22, 2023

YEMA’s Racing-Inspired Collection Makes Its Way to the WEC Grid with New Alpine Endurance Team Partnership

Watches have been a significant part of the endurance racing culture since the moment each of the teams’ tires hit the grid for the very first time. Still to this day, time keeping plays an intricate role with strategy and making in-race adjustments. From tracking lap times to driver stints, these decisions based on time ultimately decide whether a team finishes at the top of the podium, or dead last. Once Hollywood got a hold of endurance racing’s crown jewel, the 24 Hours of Le Mans, arguably one of the most iconic and dangerous races known to man, popularity both within the sport and racing chronograph watches, exploded. Built on the foundation of the Tag Heuer Monaco and Rolex Daytona, a wide array of watch brand partnerships are currently found throughout the grid evidenced by brand names on body panels, team shirts and occasionally, a watch on a driver’s wrist. The latest to join this prestigious group of endurance racing watch sponsors is YEMA after inking a deal with the Alpine Endurance Team, making them Alpine’s official timekeeper for the next three World Endurance Championship (WEC) seasons. For those unfamiliar with the FIA WEC, here’s a quick primer. In a span of a 9 month long season, 24 teams will compete in 7 (8 races next season) grueling, high-intensity races on some of the most world renowned tracks around the globe including Spa, Monza and of course, Le Mans. The Alpine Endurance Team has found success in the past several years with their A47...

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 22, 2023

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm

Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 has quickly gained popularity since its introduction more than three years ago as it offers the popular integrated-bracelet aesthetic at an affordable price point.  In March, the brand added new dial options to the collection, and now it has added more horological power to the smallest model that’s 35 mm in diameter and was previously only available with a quartz movement. Initial thoughts A slightly disappointing aspect of the PRX collection was the fact that the 35 mm model only had a quartz movement, until now. Now anyone who wants a mechanical movement in a more wearable size is catered for.  The overall design of the watch, including its waffle-pattern dial and brushed steel case, remains largely unchanged – a good thing since it is precisely these elements that first captured people’s attention in the first place. The green version stands out as a personal favourite among the new models and I expect it will be a strong seller overall given the popularity of the colour now. Starting at US$695 and going up to US$750 for the mother-of-pearl dial, the new 35 mm models are slightly pricier than the original. While the increase in price is perhaps linked to inflation, compared to many of the other integrated bracelet sports watches on the market, it still offers great value for the overall feel it gives. Now at 35 mm The latest version of the PRX collection introduces a remarkable decrease in size when compared to the original model whi...

A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 21, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in

On a cool Sydney night, with most of the darkened city preoccupied with the Vivid festival, A. Lange & Söhne and Watches of Switzerland hosted an evening in their Martin Place Boutique for Time+Tide Club Members. The doors were promptly locked, the cocktails were soon in hand, and the objective for all attendees was simple; … ContinuedThe post A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry

While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen.  Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...

The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated Time+Tide
Jun 19, 2023

The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated

We don’t need more dive watches. According to some anecdotal data, divers are the most popular type of watches because they are robust, versatile, and can sometimes be handsome to look at, considering personal preference and all. Don’t get me wrong – I love dive watches – and wear them on a mostly daily basis. … ContinuedThe post The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time Worn & Wound
Longines Dials Jun 18, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time

The week’s episode of A Week In Watches takes a look at new releases from Longines, Seiko, Rolex, MB&F;, and …Seiko. Yes we’ve got multiple Seiko watches to discuss here and yes, they are both pretty awesome. The sporty theme continues with a new Daytona released by Rolex during the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans. It brings back the exotic dial and nails a lot of details in the process. In what may prove to be more relevant news, Longines has introduced a smaller Spirit Zulu Time GMT, now available in a trim-ish 39mm case. The newest Spirit Zulu Time comes at a perfect time, sitting alongside the 42mm variant we saw released last year. More choices is always better for enthusiasts, and we think you’ll find a lot to love in not just this release from Longines, but what’s yet to come. Don’t miss out live pics of the 39mm Zulu Time in our introduction right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close with the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia Revolution
Patek Philippe Jun 14, 2023

Up Close with the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia

The Laurent Ferrier x Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is our latest collaboration with the man himself, featuring a verdant green dial inspired by Laurent’s love for nature and conservation. Laurent Ferrier’s legendary status needs no introduction, a third-generation watchmaker, with a three-decade career as a technical director for Patek Philippe and also a semi-professional racecar […]

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9

Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans Worn & Wound
Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Jun 12, 2023

Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans

This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...

The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price Time+Tide
Jun 6, 2023

The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price

The Dan Henry 1970 44mm has been re-issued four years after it sold out. The range of new colours includes a black and cream dial with a blacked-out case. It’s available as a limited edition of 1,970 pieces. Dan Henry has soared since the brand’s inception back in 2016, and they can hardly even be … ContinuedThe post The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 Time+Tide
Accutron Spaceview Evolution Jun 4, 2023

The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020

New Accutron Spaceview Evolution is literally a twist on the Spaceview 2020 Movement orientation has shifted 30 degrees, offering a new dial aesthetic and crown placement at 2 o’clock  New decoration style for dial-side of the movement with “knurled” bridge detailing Accutron’s claim to fame is the fact that they were the first to offer … ContinuedThe post The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix presents May 27, 2023

Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion

Maurice Lacroix releases a new version of the Pontos S Diver after discontinuing the 2013 model Three dial colourways available: Grained Black, Lacquered White & grained Deep Blue This new version is thinner, smaller and more refined, making it more versatile than before Maurice Lacroix just released their new Pontos S Diver in the best … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.