Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Nov 9, 2022

How I learned to stop worrying and love bolder watches

It’s a bit similar to haircuts. Looking back at photos from my youth recalls all sorts of misadventures in the barber’s chair. There was the shoulder-length mane I returned with after backpacking around India. The brief skinhead phase that my mother said made me look like a convict. There was the Britpop-inspired mishap sustained during … ContinuedThe post How I learned to stop worrying and love bolder watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? Oct 22, 2022

How Do You Top The Sensational De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? By Customizing It, Of Course – Reprise

What Makes Me Tick loves watches made by small independent artisans because they fully embody the visions of their makers, who have put blood, sweat, and tears into creating them. Among the independent brands, De Bethune is most probably his favorite. In fact, no "probably" about it: De Bethune is his favorite. Here's how his customized DB28 Maxichrono came to be.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Oct 21, 2022

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811

During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard Oct 19, 2022

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera

Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...

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WatchChris May 10, 2020

OMEGA Seamaster VS Zelos Mako 3 and Abyss 3 Micro vs Major Brand

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’ When Oct 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’

When I learned that Grand Seiko had announced the SBGJ269 with a pink dial as an Australian limited edition, it’s fair to say I lost my mind.The post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Oct 7, 2022

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special

Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial Sep 21, 2022

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was a controversial release, being one of the first times in recent decades that the brand had created something entirely new and non-sports oriented. Now that the dust has settled, the blend of industrial sci-fi in the case design and contemporary elegance on the dial has become an intriguing platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Sep 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green

The world of feminine watches definitely draws the short straw more than it should, but the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One is finally now available in what could be considered the new blue - a dark emerald green. The best way to describe the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in this new verdant guise would be “eye-catching”, with every … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Sep 17, 2022

Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey”

Once a London institution that’s been in business for over two centuries, Asprey was a storied retailer of all manner of luxury goods in its heyday. Now owned by an American private outfit, Asprey has lost its lustre, but on vintage watches the name still carries magic – a 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 2499 bearing the Asprey logo on the dial sold for a record sum in 2018. Now Andersen Genève is trying to recapture some of that magic with a double-crown world time wristwatch made made specifically for the London retailer: the Heures du Monde “Asprey” with a blue-gold guilloche dial bearing the Asprey signature at six. The engine-turned pattern on the dial is inspired by the bottles of perfume once sold by Asprey Initial thoughts The Asprey world time has a look of Andersen, an old-school, classical style that brings to mind the 1980s and 1990s. For anyone who likes that retro style, it’s a good thing since there are not many modern-day watches with such aesthetics. Still, being a special edition, the Asprey world time has to set itself apart. It does so only modestly, first with the flared lugs that were previously only used for other Andersen models, and second with the hand-made guilloche dial with a unique lozenge pattern in Andersen’s signature “blue gold”. But arguably the most important element is the signature at six o’clock, one that echoes vintage, retailer-signed world time watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With ...

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Hodinkee May 10, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus: Expectations Vs Reality | A Week On The Wrist

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rolex Day-Date you never knew Sep 16, 2022

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed

Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Longines Introduces Sep 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary

While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...

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SJX Watches

Sep 2, 2022

Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...

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SJX Watches

Panerai Introduces Aug 31, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361

Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...

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SJX Watches

Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised Aug 30, 2022

Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition

Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...

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Watchfinder & Co. May 10, 2020

Rolex Submariner vs Grand Seiko SBGA229 | Watchfinder & Co.

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Time+Tide

Tissot PRX Chronograph Aug 26, 2022

A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen

We chat with Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla, and find out exactly how the PRX Chronograph came to be.The post A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Facelifts Aug 26, 2022

Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337

One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Aug 15, 2022

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up

We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa”

Seiko is launching a new Australasian Limited Edition from the Prospex range that is inspired by one of the most stunning holiday destinations in Australia – Noosa in Queensland. The colourway for this timepiece is the seemingly always on-trend black and blue but adds popping bright yellow accents. The dial has a very subtle texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Aug 7, 2022

This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever

“If it’s not measurable then it’s not manageable.” It’s a saying beloved of accountants, number crunchers and other po-faced types, often looking to protect you from your, let’s face it, hare-brained ideas based on some purported “gut feel”.  But this would seem to be the personal manifesto of Andre Nader. The data analyst is a … ContinuedThe post This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Urban Gentry May 10, 2020

Rolex Submariner 5513 Vs Omega Planet Ocean: Our Favorite Bond Watches

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Time+Tide

Rolex Aug 7, 2022

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them)

EDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face … ContinuedThe post The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hodinkee

Grand Seiko Jul 30, 2022

Weekend Edition: Should Every Season Be Grand Seiko Season?

This weekend we're talking Zaratsu polishing, textured dial work, and what's still one of the best value props in all of luxury watchmaking.

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Time+Tide

Seiko King Sumo collection gets Jul 29, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update

It’s almost impossible to point out a Seiko model that couldn’t be described as a classic in some way, but the Seiko Sumo has enjoyed a strong cult following since 2007 for good reason. Its rounded shape and aggressive dial make for a robust package that doesn’t look too vintage to be kitschy or too … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jul 25, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph

Vintage military-inspired watches can sometimes seem like an easy path for microbrands to go down, but there are plenty of pitfalls and traps along the way. If you get the sizing wrong, you alienate a huge chunk of potential buyers. If there’s a certain detail out of place on the dial, again you’ve lost interest. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sarpaneva Jul 13, 2022

Sarpaneva’s Latest is a Glow-in-the-Dark Fairytale Landscape

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...

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WatchChris May 10, 2020

SEIKO Vs ROLEX - SBDC061 vs Yachtmaster and Air King

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