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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has just unveiled Jul 12, 2022

Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition”

A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Birch family Evolution 9 Jul 12, 2022

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family

Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX” SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner Todd Rexford Jul 1, 2022

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”

One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based  on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club Time+Tide
Jun 30, 2022

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club

Editor’s Note: The Nautilus is back in the news, but not for the reason we’ve become used to. Lofty aftermarket prices are beginning to face a tad of a correction. It seems this brand makes news on the way up and on the way back. But this is likely of little concern to these two chaps … ContinuedThe post That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Cliff diving with Mido in Paris, AP artwork and Greubel gorgeousness Time+Tide
Mido Jun 24, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Cliff diving with Mido in Paris, AP artwork and Greubel gorgeousness

Luke here – just popping into Zach’s Wind Down to tell you about a gravity-defying weekend in Paris with Mido. Twenty-seven metres doesn’t sound that high. But as I edged out onto the diving platform towering over the Seine, I felt a lurching sense of dread in the pit of my stomach. The platform was about … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Cliff diving with Mido in Paris, AP artwork and Greubel gorgeousness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Long rumoured Jun 16, 2022

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet

Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...

INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A Time+Tide
Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value Jun 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A

It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”

Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin released May 27, 2022

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000

Watches with that integrated-bracelet appeal and 1970s aesthetic are all the rage right now. Recently Vacheron Constantin released its 222 to some acclaim, and Tissot’s smash hit, the PRX, both underlined what many had already noticed – people love the design and clear-cut lines of integrated bracelet watches.  Let’s face it: while most of would love … ContinuedThe post Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues May 25, 2022

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve

The Frogman is a black and white film from 1951 that depicts the contribution the US Navy divers made to WWII.  Following the death of their superior officer, the men of the Underwater Demolition Team chafe under the strict rule of Lieutenant Commander John Lawrence, a rule-bound leader who tries to crack down on team discipline. Following … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® Time+Tide
IWC proves May 1, 2022

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone®

With any sort of commercial product, the choice of colour plays a crucial role in attracting the consumer. But watchmaking is a game of precision, an art ever striving for the pursuit of perfection. It is no longer enough to make a black dial these days, now it needs to be the blackest black or … ContinuedThe post “About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours Time+Tide
Oris Propilot X get Apr 5, 2022

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours

The ProPilot from Oris has long been a bit of a side character for the brand, with the aviation-inspired look having a fairly niche appeal when mixed with the smart-casual dial, hands and knurled bezel. Now, the Oris ProPilot X completely revamps the series with a new, cohesive design language filled with bold edges, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe release Apr 3, 2022

VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders?

“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case

While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix MoonSwatch mania Mar 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement!

It’s been an eventful week so let’s get right into it. To kick things off, I spent the weekend with Maurice Lacroix down in Miami to celebrate the launch of their latest evolution of the Aikon: the Aikon #tide. The Aikon #tide is both a playful and principled release, a colourful daily wearer with an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.