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The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References Worn & Wound
Breguet Type XX Jun 7, 2023

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References

When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all.  Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...

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Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067 SJX Watches
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 Jun 6, 2023

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

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Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

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[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Worn & Wound
May 31, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver

Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch.  $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features  Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...

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The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Fortis Now May 24, 2023

The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop

A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. The post The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes Time+Tide
Yema May 5, 2023

HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes

Although the French brand Yema have never stopped producing watches since their inception in 1948, their lapse into relative obscurity during the ‘80s-‘00s has to qualify them among the best brand revivals of the 21st century. Professional divers, racing chronographs, and even space-faring pilot pieces are classics of the Yema catalogue, but the Yema Urban … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator Worn & Wound
Marathon Apr 21, 2023

Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator

Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. The post Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal Time+Tide
Zenith s aviation heritage cemented Apr 16, 2023

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal

Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop Worn & Wound
Zenith joined Apr 5, 2023

Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop

That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. The post Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Zenith Releases Apr 4, 2023

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders

Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet).  Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore.  The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...

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Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition Worn & Wound
Oris & Mar 27, 2023

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

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Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2023

Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude

Based in Belgium, Gavox was early on the micro-brand scene, launching in 2011 with their first watches crossing our desks in 2013. But it’s been a little while since we last had a Gavox in the office for review. In December 2019, they launched a 36mm pilot’s watch with a quartz movement and a “dirty dozen” appeal. As we all know, shortly after, life changed quite a bit. But Gavox persisted if quietly, making a bold return in late 2022 with the announcement of a new and ambitious watch powered by the equally exciting Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT. Called the Longitude, it’s a fresh take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, combining a handful of timely trends into a well-specced-out package. Named to inspire a sense of exploration, it also has a personal connection Michael Happé, the founder of the brand. A descendant of Dirk Hartog, a 17th-century Dutch explorer who is credited as the first Western European to set foot in Australia, the watch celebrates this connection. Despite the historical and seemingly nautical roots of the Longitude, the watch itself is a very modern expression of adventure. Available in four colors at launch, including an entirely black DLC version, the Longitude has a final price tag of $1122, but is available for pre-order at $762 through March, 2023. $1122 Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Case Kolsterized Steel Movement Miyota 9075 Dial Faceted Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated Bracelet Water Resistance...

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Zenith El Primero Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 20, 2023

Zenith El Primero Guide

The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...

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Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 Time+Tide
Laco s classic chronograph returns Nov 20, 2022

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2

As one of the clear leaders of German-made pilot’s watches, Laco’s chronograph releases are few and far between. While the flieger essentials Type A and Type B get lots of attention – an archetype that Laco summited with their customisable Flieger PRO – the chronographs of the German air force were far less common but … ContinuedThe post Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

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HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun Time+Tide
Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers Oct 22, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun

Laco are phenomenally popular with Flieger wearers as they’re one of the affordable brands to have made those original pilot’s watches during WWII. Now, the brand are as strong as ever and have branched out significantly from what could be considered their staple. The Laco Scorpion is a new extension to their Squad Watch collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” Originally Oct 10, 2022

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”

Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...

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Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton ambassador Bradley Cooper has Sep 8, 2022

Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador

Bradley Cooper has got a new watch. The Hollywood actor has just been unveiled as the face of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour, the brand’s most famous model that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. The news will perhaps bother some po-faced folk, who’ll no doubt start muttering about Cooper’s previous affiliation as an IWC ambassador and … ContinuedThe post Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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