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Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, we get to see new additions to Vacheron Constantin’s popular Overseas collection. The integrated-bracelet sports model receives additions in pink gold with green dials as well as a full-titanium tourbillon model with a blue dial. The new green dials come in four Overseas variants. There is a 41mm Self-Winding […] Visit Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon to read the full article.

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo Monochrome
Grand Seiko Revisits Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo

In 1960, a team of Seiko engineers produced a watch that encapsulated precision, durability, refined execution and beauty. Launched in a 35mm yellow gold case with a slim, chronometer-rated movement, the specifications of the new watch were so well calibrated that it was christened the Grand Seiko. Celebrating Grand Seiko’s official independence from Seiko in […]

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor

Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

Introducing – The Denim Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Denim Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

Patek Philippe releases a new white gold reference of its popular Aquanaut Travel Time with a greyish-blue dial and matching strap. While many Patek fans mourned the discontinuation of the 5164A stainless steel Aquanaut earlier this year, the new white gold reference – a first for this model –  is a handsome addition to the […]

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Rolex’s dressiest Apr 9, 2024

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 41mm Goes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black

Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]

Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial Fratello
Rolex 1908 Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial

Last year at Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex surprised most of us with the 1908 collection. This classical, formal line of watches in 18K yellow and white gold brought a new aesthetic to the brand. We also considered it something of an opening move. Rolex was taking aim at some of the established Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial to read the full article.

The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut Fratello
Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes Apr 9, 2024

The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut

As Watches And Wonders 2024 kicks off, Tudor introduces the latest incarnation of the upgraded Black Bay model. Following in the METAS-certified footsteps of last year’s introduction, in 2024, the red and gold accents are stripped away in favor of a monochromatic look. And it turns out that when you take away the signature livery […] Visit The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut to read the full article.

Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel Fratello
Rolex Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel

Last year, Rolex released a string of hits. Among the biggest were the yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II with a black and gray bezel. The combination of colors and the Jubilee bracelets made for a duo of GMT-Master IIs that quickly won people over. But this year, the duo has become […] Visit Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets Apr 9, 2024

Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover

Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s novelties at Watches & Wonders is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (CEP), the latest model to receive the monochromatic, all-platinum treatment. Coming two years after the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph CEP, this utilises platinum extensively throughout the watch, and even the stitching of the strap, while maintaining many of the standard model’s key characteristics. Initial thoughts On its face, the new Tourbillon Chronograph closely resembles the standard model in rose gold. The view from the back is practically identical – which is a good thing given the appeal of the cal. 3200, a recent in-house calibre (and not Lemania based) but one constructed with traditional aesthetics and details. Nevertheless, being a CEP edition, it embraces a primarily grey palette. This is tastefully complemented by the blue accents, including the blued steel hands, and a single blued screw on the tourbillon cage. It’s a straightforward yet effective combination.  The formula is the same one applied to past CEP editions, so the similarity between this and the standard model is understandable. However, varying the design more in order to distinguish this from the regular production model would have made it a bit more special. Nevertheless, the CEP possesses a refined charm and is more appealing than its current standard model, albeit with a price tag that is quite a bit more, as is usually the case for CEP...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating.  As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking.  That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...

First Look – The New Czapek of Watches & Wonders 2024, Including the Promenade Collection Monochrome
Czapek Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The New Czapek of Watches & Wonders 2024, Including the Promenade Collection

Independent watchmaker Czapek whets our appetite ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, pre-releasing the handsome Antarctique Mount Erebus, the first gold version of its successful luxury sports watch. But there is more coming our way from the creative brand: two cool new versions of the Antarctique and, more importantly, a new collection, Promenade. The New […]

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton in Steel Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton in Steel

This new creation by H. Moser & Cie. is the brand’s second venture into the skeleton watch category, following the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton introduced in 2022. Notably, a tourbillon watch joined the Streamliner collection the same year, presented in full red gold attire with a Vantablack-coated dial. In 2024, a Tourbillon Skeleton is added […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Blancpain Apr 7, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

Blancpain finally released a Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a smaller 42.3mm size for its regular collection. There’s one in rose gold, but we especially thought the titanium version was interesting. Most of all, that’s because it’s the perfect candidate to compete against the Rolex Yacht-Master 42, which since last year, has also been available in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique to read the full article.

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For Worn & Wound
Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Apr 1, 2024

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For

Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...