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Monochrome
With the discontinuation of Cellini collection, Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908 series in 2023, blending classic aesthetics with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. Until now, these models powered by the Rolex calibre 7140 were exclusively available on leather straps. This year, Rolex expands the collection with a yellow gold version, now paired with the newly designed Settimo […]
Monochrome
Here we are. Watches and Wonders, the main event of the year for the watch industry and the watch community, has not opened its doors yet, but Rolex has already released its new models for 2025. And this is it, the big news is here… The Crown is introducing a brand-new collection – something that […]
Fratello
It’s finally officially here! The new Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” model is in white gold with a ceramic dial, and the new rose gold version has a tiger iron dial. In the past few years, Rolex spoiled us with new GMT-Master II editions, like the new all-steel version with black and gray bezel (“Bruce Wayne”), […] Visit The 2025 Rolex GMT-Master II Models – The White Gold Sprite Cerachrom And Everose Tiger Iron to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...
SJX Watches
The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...
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Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. MAEN x Nico Leanord Jump Hour This week, MAEN debuted their latest release, a collaboration with YouTuber Nico Leonard. The MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard features a classic mechanical jump hour complication, with the current hour displayed via an aperture near the top of the dial, and the minutes below (you’ll also find Leonard’s “Pride and Pinion” logo just under the minute aperture). The tonneau shaped case measures 34mm across, 45mm lug to lug, and 9.7mm tall, and is mounted to a custom FKM rubber strap. Three dial colors will be available: black, green, and red. Since all pieces are being made to order, an order window will run from April 7th to the 13th, with delivery planned for late November 2025. More information about the MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard can be found here. One Battle After Another : Official Trailer Last week we brought you the teaser for the teaser – now the full trailer is here and there’s been a great deal of speculation as to what this movie will be about as PTA isn’t exactly known for giving the general public a ton of info beforehand. With the release of the official trailer, it’s seemingly confirmed that the final titl...
Monochrome
Armin Strom is a revered name among horophiles, an independent brand acclaimed for rekindling the spirit of resonance in wristwatches. Last year, Armin Strom introduced its 18th in-house movement – calibre ARF22 – with the white gold Dual Time GMT Resonance with impressive mechanics and finishings on both sides of the case. Offering two independent […]
Deployant
In a statement release, Czapek releases a new flying tourbillon, driven by a new in-house Calibre 9. This is the Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon.
Fratello
Finding the right watch that doesn’t have a classic, round case is trickier than I anticipated. You see, recently, I have been pursuing an option for my collection that doesn’t adhere to the case shape most of us start with. Hurrah for vintage Longines coming to the rescue! The round watch case is practically synonymous […] Visit The Hunt For Shapes: Settling On A Vintage Longines to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Amelia 2022 was Tim Mosso's first concours d’elegance experience, and it left an impression. In fact, it left such a mark that one article cannot encompass the entirety of the experience. So here is Part 2.
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Monochrome
Here it is… the most exciting time of the year for watch enthusiasts, retailers, and journalists is upon us once again. The most significant event of the watch industry calendar, Watches and Wonders – and the Geneva Watch Week – is set to begin on April 1st, 2025 at 8:30 AM. The event continues to […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. An Updated Swiss Passport For anyone who has, or plans to travel abroad, you know just how important your passport is. Arguably the most important piece of gear for world travelers, this book allows you to get in, and out of your destination, and more importantly allows you to return home. While each country has their own, unique design and style, Switzerland has just announced their newest look, reimagined by Geneva based design agency RETINAA. While the new look is stunning and eye-catching, it’s packed full of security features like watermarks, UV-reactive illustrations, and many more undisclosed elements. For one of the world’s most powerful passports, it’s only fitting that it has an equally powerful design. The Fujifilm GFX100RF: An Overly Ambitious Compact Camera In 2023, Fujifilm released the X100vi, a new addition to their X100 series of compact cameras. This model became so popular that it’s still on backorder, over two years after its initial release. Not one to settle with this level of success, Fujifilm has announced a new model, the GFX100RF, a slightly bigger but exponentially more powerful “sibling” to the X100vi. This new camera ...
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is populated with classical watches that evoke the grand Saxon watchmaking traditions of the 19th century. A slight evolution of the somewhat august Senator range, a sub-collection known as the Senator Excellence, was released in tandem with the brand’s calibre 36 in 2016. The Panorama Date Moon Phase appeared in 2018, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...
Fratello
When Zenith first introduced this black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original in September 2023, it felt like a déjà vu. At first glance, it immediately felt like a dial variant that the brand would have released in the early ’70s. We know that didn’t happen, but here we are, 50+ years later, with a dial […] Visit How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. First Commercial Moon Landing On Tuesday, March 2nd, Firefly Aerospace successfully landed their “Blue Ghost” lander on the surface of the moon, making it the first private company to do so. Over the next two weeks, Blue Ghost will conduct a number of experiments, 10 of which are for NASA, in an effort to gather data that will be used for the Artemis Project. While still in the early stages, Project Artermis looks to return humans back to the moon, something that hasn’t been done in over 50 years. Millions of Dollars Worth of Suitcases View this post on Instagram A post shared by Peak Design (@peakdesign) Whether you’re into photography or just know someone who is, you’ve likely heard of Peak Design before. While they made their name creating high quality camera bags and accessories, Peak Design has been branching out into various adjacent segments for some time now. In their most recent project, Peak Design set out to create their very own suitcase, which they’ve named the “Roller Pro”. Best described as a hybrid between the standard soft and hard shell options on the market, the Roller Pro features two unique opening methods, a carbon fiber ...
Fratello
When Rado reintroduced the Over-Pole as a limited edition in 2022, it came as a single stainless steel model. Today, nearly three years later, a historically correct version in yellow gold PVD is here. With gold-colored watches increasing in popularity, this latest Rado is an elegant option for those who still enjoy tool-watch functionality. We’ve […] Visit Hands-On: The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Returns In Gold PVD to read the full article.
Fratello
At the end of 2023, Michiel Holthinrichs showed me the first sketches of his new Ornament watches at his atelier in the center of Delft, here in the Netherlands. In May 2024, he finally felt confident enough to officially announce the watches. I hadn’t seen them in real life yet, though, so I was very […] Visit Hands-On With The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series And The Impressive Ornament Nouveau to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Suppose you travel frequently between the US and Britain. In that case, one difference you’ll notice pretty swiftly after escaping the airport is the proliferation (and absence) of flags depending on which side of the pond you have arrived. Over here, you’ll typically only see a Union Flag flying outside official buildings, or on literally everything inside the many tourist shops around London. It’s not generally seen outside schools, homes or shops. However, we Brits do let a smidgen of patriotism creep out on occasion. The “Last Night of the Proms” even encourages flag waving (and rhythmic bobbing), and we feel a sense of pride celebrating Olympic medals won by superhuman efforts from individuals we only heard about two and a half hours earlier. Display the Union Flag on a watch and most Brits would turn their nose up. A stylized version of the same idea, but created by a watch brand based in the south of England, started by a gentleman from Portugal, and available in very limited numbers, and it’s a whole lot more acceptable. Sometimes we take a little outside encouragement to embrace such things. Isotope is unveiling two watches for British Watch Makers’ Day 2025, which both make vivid use of the Union Flag – the Mercury BWD Cloisonné and Mercury BWD Micro Marquetry. Isotope’s Mercury was first seen last summer in the form of a limited edition with Revolution, and was followed by a Shadow variant which used the same case and movement but a brushed in...
Time+Tide
For the first time, Breitling equips a non-limited edition Navitimer with one of its most technically ambitious movements – the Calibre B19.The post Breitling’s platinum-bezeled, blue B19 belter – the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
Fratello
When two of the most likable people in the watch industry collaborate on a watch, only good things can happen, right? With collaborations, success is never a guarantee, but the new Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is an absolute winner. The only complaint is that so few will be made. Here at Fratello, […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]
Monochrome
Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]
Monochrome
Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]
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