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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2020

Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020

It doesn’t matter whether you’re in Aussie summer or the Northern Hemisphere winter, whether locked down or suddenly released, we need colours in our lives more than ever this year. From bubblegum pink to baby blue, pastel-coloured watch dials never fail to turn heads and lift sagging spirits, and every man should be secure enough … ContinuedThe post Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Grande Lune in Blue SJX Watches
Breguet style numerals Dec 10, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Grande Lune in Blue

Possibly the most iconic Hermès watch, the asymmetrical Arceau has been used to showcase complications like the recent minute repeater with tourbillon or the quirky L’Heure de la Lune. A counterpoint to that is the Arceau Grande Lune, an accessible watch that still preserves the design elements that make the Arceau so recognisable. With its latest facelift, the Arceau Grande Lune now has an altogether more modern aesthetic with a two-tone, metallic blue dial. Initial thoughts The new Grande Lune is a handsome watch with all the typical design cues of the Arceau, from the Breguet-style numerals for both the hours and date to the stirrup-inspired case. At the same time, the Arceau Grande Lune is a more formal-looking watch than recent releases from Hermes that had a bit more whimsy, most notably the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. The distinctive lugs are larger on the top While the “XL”, 43 mm Arceau case is ideal for showing off uber-complications, it is perhaps a shade too large for a more formal watch, especially one with an old-school triple-calendar and moon phase. It’s still a good looking watch, with a style that is more contemporary than earlier iterations of the model. The dial is dressed in a fashionable colour, but has plenty of visual interest thanks to the clever use of varied surface textures that give it a subtle two-tone finish. And despite the case design being over 40 years old, the Arceau still feels current thanks to its subtle asy...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date

First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial. Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch). Initial thoughts Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well. While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists. Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers. The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1). The newer L086...

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze Dec 2, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene Time+Tide
Bravur Nov 29, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene

In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Nov 26, 2020

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter

Almost exactly a year after the inaugural limited edition designed by Alain Silberstein, Louis Erard has just unveiled its second collaboration, this time with Vianney Halter, the watchmaker best known for a unique, steampunk-inspired aesthetic. Designed by Mr Halter and made by Louis Erard, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter is based on the Excellence Régulateur, but dressed up with many of the independent watchmaker’s signature design elements on the dial. Initial thoughts The dial is executed with the distinctive aesthetic found on Mr Halter’s best-known watches, namely the Antiqua and Classic – which were penned by American designer Jeff Barnes. Although the case and dial layout are identical to Louis Erard’s stock regulator model, the typography and hands of Mr Halter are unique enough to make it instantly recognisable. As it is based on the standard model, the Régulateur Vianney Halter has the same strengths and weaknesses. Most obviously, it is affordable and good value, but the case is thick at a little over 12 mm high, meaning it feels slightly chunky. Conceptually, this collaboration functioned exactly like the earlier one with Alain Silberstein, but it feels less complete because of the background of the collaborator. While Mr Silberstein was always a watch designer, Mr Halter is well established as a watchmaker and known as a skilled prototypist. As a result, while the new watch possesses a recognisable Vianney Halter style – and it ...

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Extraplate Boutique Edition SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 26, 2020

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Extraplate Boutique Edition

Perhaps the quintessential Blancpain dress watch, the Villeret is simple yet distinctive in style. Named after the own where Blancpain was founded, the Villeret collection has existed since the resurrection of the brand in the 1980s, but almost always with a white dial. So the latest to join the line up is unusual: the Villeret Extraplate Boutique Edition, a richly coloured watch in yellow gold and metallic olive green. Initial thoughts While exceedingly simple in design, the Villeret is made up of several subtle elements that make its instantly recognisable. The Roman numerals, for instance, have an unusual, geometric font that give them a slightly modern look. Add to that leaf hands with an open centre, and the narrow, double-stepped, bezel, and it is a Villeret. The design is easily defined, but the Villeret line up is mostly made up of watches that resemble each other – most commonly a solemn white dial matched with a rose gold case. The highlight of the new model is its colour, which makes a big difference. A first for Blancpain, the combination of a yellow gold case with a green dial is starkly different from the typical Villeret iterations. The colours are more contemporary and less old fashioned, resulting in a dress watch that stands out. Because both the case and dial colours are warm, the watch has a rich, saturated look that is striking, but perhaps not for everyone. That said, it is only 40 mm wide and 8.7 mm high, compact dimension that give it a discree...

The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin Nov 22, 2020

The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist

Despite my Nordic roots and name, it’s beginning to occur to me that I’m not cool enough for the new Linde Werdelin. The Swiss-Danish watchmaker is well known for their decidedly strong design language. Increasingly, they’re nearly as well known for their stoic refusal to be deterred from banking all on it. Today, it’s the … ContinuedThe post The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT only Nov 20, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind

Watch designs can be very homogenous at times, with brands capitalising on iconic silhouettes and forms to elevate their offerings. Grand Seiko, among other manufacturers, never utilises borrowed design and constantly puts the “novel” in novelties with fresh releases than can be easily spotted from across the room. Through their pillars of design, the brand … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner … Nov 16, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire

Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Flytrack Prime Edition SJX Watches
Nov 2, 2020

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Flytrack Prime Edition

A watchmaker established by Porsche 911 “restomod” specialist Singer Vehicle Design, Singer Reimagined got off the ground with the Track 1, a chronograph with 1970s vibes that’s powered by one of the most ingenious 21st century chronograph movements. Now Singer has just taken the covers off its second model, the Flytrack Prime Edition. Essentially a condensed version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is equipped with a constantly-running central seconds hand that can be instantaneously reset and restarted – a flyback in other words – allowing it to measure short elapsed times. Making its debut as a 30-piece “Prime Edition” in titanium, the Flytrack is powered by the AGH 9634 AgenGraphe movement, a simplified version of the full-fledged chronograph movement in the Track 1. The AGH 9634 Initial thoughts A simpler and more affordable version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is essentially a highly complicated time-only watch. Though simpler, the Flytrack movement is still made up of 314 parts, about three times a conventional time-only movement. And despite doing away with chronograph mechanism, the movement in the Flytrack is still complex enough to be attractive in its mechanics. The Flytrack’s style and feel is very similar to the Track 1 – the case is identical in size – which means 1970s and speedometer-inspired. It’s an appealing retro look that’s executed well on the Track 1, and nearly as well on the Flytrack, save for one cav...

Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite Quill & Pad
Nov 1, 2020

Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite

The GPHG Diver's category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity. Diver's watches are fairly straightforward and the most successful ones tend look very much alike. However most of our panelists selected a winner from the outfield that looked very different to the norm.

Rimowa Introduces the Rimowa Watch Case SJX Watches
Oct 31, 2020

Rimowa Introduces the Rimowa Watch Case

Famous for its stamped aluminium luggage that’s has become a status symbol of sorts, Rimowa has just unveiled the Rimowa Watch Case. Like its signature suitcases, Rimowa’s watch box is made of matte aluminium with parallel grooves and also steeply priced, with a retail of just over US$2,000. Initial thoughts The utility of Rimowa’s aluminium luggage – namely its robustness – doesn’t feature in a watch case, since watch storage doesn’t need to be particularly robust. In fact, the weight of the case – 1.29 kg, or about 2.84 lbs – makes it ironically impractical for travelling. The distinctive all-aluminium aesthetic, however, does translate well into ultra-premium storage for three watches. And premium the watch case is. Rimowa’s diversification is no surprise, especially since the brand was acquired by French luxury conglomerate LVMH in 2016. And watch accessories are particularly sensible, because of the price premiums that can be charged for such accessories. Compare the price of a watch strap to a belt strap by the same maker for instance. The case is disproportionately more expensive compared to Rimowa’s aluminium luggage. In fact, the watch case costs almost 50% more than Rimowa’s largest check-in luggage in aluminium. It doesn’t make sense from a value perspective, but the watch case is cool, especially for someone who appreciates Rimowa’s aesthetic. Pressed, matte, and silvery The watch case is made in Italy, unlike Rimowa’s primary l...

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price) Deployant
Ressence Type 5X – Warm Oct 29, 2020

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial Oct 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020?

Editor’s note: We’ve had quite the flurry of Bulgari lately, mostly in celebration of the brand’s 2020 collection. And, increasingly, the pinion of the collection is emerging as this model right here. Make no mistake, it doesn’t rightly deserve to be. It’s a simple dial variation away from the black lacquer dial variation that the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking? Quill & Pad
Ressence Type 2A/2G Oct 24, 2020

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking?

With concept cars, it is typical for most of the features on the prototype to be weeded out once the design is optimized for manufacturing. The electronical-mechanical Ressence Type 2 is the complete opposite, Joshua Munchow says, as it has retained pretty much every single thing the concept watch of 2018 offered and has only improved in function. Is the Ressence Type 2 the future of mechanical watches?

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2020

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes…

This year has been remarkable in many ways. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve said to myself, “Well, I never thought I’d see that happen in my lifetime.” Despite these surprises, the watch industry has demonstrated a remarkable stability. Sure, we lost a few trade shows. But there was also a regular flow … ContinuedThe post Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.