Hodinkee
Introducing: The Infinity Series P.01 By J.N. Shapiro For Collective
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Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
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Hodinkee
Deployant
Review: Seiko “Tuna” 55th Anniversary SLA041J1 (SBDX035) Prospex 1975 Dive Limited Edition
We examine the Seiko "Tuna" 55th Anniversary SLA041J1 Prospex 1975 Dive Limited Edition, and a quick look at the re-creation of the Prospex Collection.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup
The world’s most prestigious yacht race, the America’s Cup has been sponsored by a variety of watch brands, which was Panerai until the last instalment – and to confuse things even more, the competing teams each have their own watch sponsors. Having been a backer of defending champion Team New Zealand for the last two decades, Omega now back to being a sponsor of the entire event as official timekeeper for 36th America’s Cup that’ll take place in 2021 off the coast of Auckland in New Zealand. Since the last time Omega was the official race timekeeper was in 2003, the brand is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup, no doubt the first of several editions for the event. Initial thoughts With event-specific limited editions being an Omega favourite, this isn’t going to be the only America’s Cup edition. At the same time, the red-white-and-blue livery has been used on other watches. In short, the Planet Ocean America’s Cup isn’t going to be a particularly unique edition. But the watch itself is a strong proposition. Omega watches usually offer good value for money, combining high-tech mechanical watchmaking and high-end materials, which is the case for the Planet Ocean line at large. Though the America’s Cup model is a limited edition, it costs only about 10% over the standard model. So if you want a Planet Ocean but want something a bit more special than the stock offering, this is a good choice. A high-spec instrument...
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors
“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and horological designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Interview: With Catherine Rénier, CEO Of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre's CEO talks grand comps, Master Control, and the digital future of watch communications.
WatchAdvice
IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review
Introduction Clipping shut the deployant buckle of the just-refreshed IWC Portugieser Chronograph; it’s easy to see why this is one of the brand’s most popular watches, in Australia at least. It’s dressy, but still offers a healthy dose of sports functionality. What makes this new reference, announced back in February, even better the movement beating away inside. For the first time, it’s an IWC-manufactured calibre, and while it can’t be seen on the wrist, or make much of a difference to daily wear, it still feels like a significant step up. The Dial and Hands The face of the Portugieser Chronograph is refreshingly familiar, thanks to that iconic combination of applied Arabic numerals and leaf (or feuille) shaped hands. The chronograph layout puts a minutes register at the top and a running seconds display at six. I’m more familiar with the white-dialled version of the Portugieser so was happy to give the black a try. And boy, is this dial black. The colour is incredibly deep and dynamic; if you catch it on the right angle, it takes on a blue-ish sheen around the edges. I must say that, because of the dark dial and the slender, highly polished hands and hour markers, legibility was a bit of an issue at times. Still, the overall beauty made me forget about that fact almost immediately. IWC Portugieser Chronograph Reference 371609 The Case and Strap At 41mm, this watch is sized just right. The steel case sits well on the wrist, flush and, even though it is...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO
We have had some moments over the six plus year journey of Time+Tide, and this is certainly one of them. We have been asked by Zenith, one of the great manufactures, to help them launch this – the FINAL El Primero Special Edition in the 50th Anniversary year – the Chronomaster Manufacture Edition. Above is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Edition on integrated rubber strap
With the announcement that Omega will be the official timekeeper of the 36th America’s Cup comes the release of the brand new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Limited Edition. The watch is presented on an eye-catching integrated rubber strap with red lining and contrast white stitching. The 43.50mm Planet Ocean is offered in … ContinuedThe post Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Edition on integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Henschke Hill Of Grace 2015 Shiraz: 99/100, A Brilliant Example Of Just How Great Australian Wines Can Be
The Henschke Hill of Grace 2015 Shiraz is a wonderful wine from a very fine vintage. In Ken Gargett's opinion, it's a wine with decades ahead of it. A great Hill of Grace and a brilliant example of just how great Australian wines can be. 99/100.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breitling Superocean Heritage '57 Limited Edition II In Support Of Frontline Healthcare Workers
There is now a second version of the colorful watch, and it assists the fight against COVID-19.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Kamasu Review: The Perfect Under The Radar Diver?
The Orient Kamasu is a great value proposition that packs a ton of features, design impact, and more for under $300 - is it perfect for you?
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex Street Series “Urban Safari”
Released in 2018, the Seiko Prospex Street Series is essentially a modern twist on the iconic Seiko “Tuna” dive watch, retaining the signature case design of the “Tuna”, but with the addition of more colours as well as affordable pricing. With colours inspired by an African safari, the new Prospex Street Series “Urban Safari” is a four-strong collection made up of two basic models, each inspired by famous historical models with nicknames – the automatic “Tuna” and analogue-digital “Arnie” . Initial thoughts Strong, monochromatic colours give the watches an eye-catching and sporty look. Add to that the matching silicone straps and the result is something that goes well with streetwear, fulfilling the purpose of the collection. The khaki versions are very much safari in theme, but the others are more reminiscent of the concrete jungle. But regardless of model, the fundamentals of the watch are very much Seiko’s strength – casual, sporty design and very accessible pricing. “Tuna” and “Arnie” Historically a feature found on Seiko’s top-of-the-line dive watches, the shrouded case features prominently in Seiko’s current line-up collection, with the most recent addition being the historical remake of the ref. 6159-7010 of 1975 that’s part of the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary Trilogy. The “Tuna” inspiration of the Urban Safari is immediately evident from the protective shroud around the case, giving the watch a resemblance to a t...
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Fortifies Balance Sheet with €2 Billion Bond Sale
Having just announced its full-year results while predicting a gloomy outlook for the business, Richemont has successful placed €2 billion of bonds, with coupon ranging from 0.75% for the 8-year note to 1.625% for the 20-year note. The bond placement boosts the Swiss luxury group’s robust balance sheet, which had a gross cash position of €6.34 billion and a net cash position of €2.40 billion at the end of March 31, 2020. The notes received an A+ rating from credit ratings agency S&P;, which also lowered its outlook for Richemont from stable to negative, “citing the possibility of a downgrade if the coronavirus pandemic causes the company’s credit metrics to worsen”. Widely regarded as a savvy investor who transformed his family’s tobaccco-and-banking empire into an even larger one focused the “hard” luxury of watches and jewellery, Mr Rupert’s belief in the severity of the pandemic-induced recession is obvious. That, in turn, does not bode well for the luxury watch business. Richemont’s biggest earner is Cartier – the jewellery division is half the group’s turnover – it also owns a host of luxury watch brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Panerai, which make up about 20% of its sales. During Richemont’s earning conference call on May 15, Mr Rupert explained the bond issue: “We have always believed in protecting our balance sheet… For years, a lot of investment banks questioned us about that it’s a lazy balance sheet. But h...
SJX Watches
A Tribute to Peter Baumberger of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner
Peter Baumberger (Koppingen, 1939 – Biel, 2010) Ten years ago, Peter Baumberger died in Biel. On the occasion of this anniversary, I would like to pay a brief tribute to the one who was a dear friend and an extraordinary character – pictured above with his favourite oval tourbillon pocket watch and wearing a Ref. 3 wristwatch – whose ideas and personality marked the Swiss watch industry after the Quartz Crisis. I first met Peter in November 1975, during a sale organised by Peter Ineichen auctioneers in Zürich. He was with the famous Derek Pratt. At that time, Peter was one of the world’s leading dealers in antique watches. His charming and authentic nature immediately fascinated me – this is how our friendship started, a friendship that lasted until the end of his life. The name of Peter Baumberger will remain forever in Swiss watchmaking history thanks to his rescue and his revival of the historic brand Urban Jürgensen at Le Locle, which he acquired in the late 1970s. Undeniably, Peter played a pioneering role in the renaissance of the high-quality Swiss mechanical watch, long before others. As a trained watchmaker, he combined cutting-edge technical skills with a very distinct aesthetic sensitivity, as well as with an intimate knowledge of the works of the old masters; the remarkable confluence of these aspects is therefore the basis of his creative work. Peter put all his strength and his spirit at the disposal of Urban Jürgensen to give a new spark to the...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Regulator with Smoked Dials
Regulators are all about their characteristic dial where the hour, minute and seconds hands are each located on separate axes – with the minute hand being the largest and longest – a layout originally designed for maximum legibility on clock faces in the mid-18th century. The Louis Erard Excellence Regulator revisits this classical design, but now with a fashionable smoked dial – and an eminently affordable price tag. Initial thoughts Regulator watches are simple, but are not common at this price point – the Excellence Regulator costs just 2490 Swiss francs, or about US$2600. Louis Erard, however, has made something of a specialty of affordable regulator watches, most notably with the whimsical Alain Silberstein Regulator launched last year that was styled by the eponymous watch designer for Louis Erard. The value proposition is good, though the dials are definitely reminiscent the fumé dials of H. Moser & Cie, which didn’t invent such graduated-colour dials, but have made them almost synonymous with the brand. Based on the photos, the graduated finish of the Excellence Regulator dials are not quite as not as complex or refined as that on Moser’s watches – understandable and acceptable given the substantively lower price. Smoked dials While the regulator layout is unusual, the smoked dials are the highlight. Offered in vibrant and saturated hues of grey, blue or green, the colour gradually tapers off in intensity, turning almost black towards the edges...
Quill & Pad
Tutima Saxon One Lady: Edgy Elegance With A Cushion-Shaped Twist
Creating a successful ladies' watch is not easy, but Martin Green thinks that Tutima has done just that with the Saxon One Lady featuring a distinctive cushion-shaped case and intricate design details.
Time+Tide
The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 91: Inside An Epic Antiques Roadshow Find (Plus An Industry Update From Joe)
Get the full scoop on that jaw-dropping Paul Newman Daytona (and a whole lot more).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #176: Wristwatch Bar Talk #2
It's been a rough week and the guys cut loose for another round of unscripted banter. Plus, you'll get to hear about a monumental TBWS milestone - that Kaz & Mike completely forgot to update you on.
Deployant
Review: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica – Master Gyrotourbillon I
We take a look at a rare and breathtaking Hybris Artistica iteration of the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Gyrotourbillon I.
Time+Tide
G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man)
** It is mandatory that all readers of this post be listening to this song while they do it. Thank you for complying.** We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again – G-Shock are losing the plot, and we’re loving it. And now, to cut straight to the chase, as direct as a frickin laser … ContinuedThe post G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Desert Island Dials with Stephen Watson Revolution’s New US Editor
In episode three of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have our latest US editor (@steviewatches) speaking with us today. He tells us about his Gerald Genta Automatic Jump Hour Retrograde Mickey Mouse watch and other unexpected pieces in his collection.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm
The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Life Behind the Deadbeat Seconds
Watchmaking combines technical achievement and aesthetic expression, and sometimes the two are inextricably linked. In a handful of instances, the technical achievement transforms the artistic value, as in the jumping seconds. The complication is perhaps the most abrupt expression of time. Is there any value in having a mechanical jumping seconds? In exploring that, we first have to understand how the seconds as a unit of time came to be. Time in antiquity In today’s world where no one bats an eyelid when a satellite is sent into orbit, time and space are perceived to be intimately linked as one. Before Einstein hit upon the theory of relativity, the link between space and time was nebulous, but the definition of time was well established. For the ancient Egyptians, daytime was based on the apparent movement of the Sun, and the night sky was segmented into smaller divisions based on the position and motion of stars. Over the subsequent millennia, the Sumerians and Babylonians further refined the time measurement to better account for stellar motion. The Babylonians, inspired by the Egyptians, approximated the movement of the Sun’s apparent revolution into 360 divisions, due to the number of days required for the Sun to trace its path on the ecliptic and their predilection for a base-60 (or sexagesimal) system. This is also the origin of 360 degrees required for a complete revolution, which was explained by Malcolm Correll in the volume 15 of scientific journal The Phy...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic
Editor’s note: There are more micro and independent watchmakers out there than you could possibly ever discover in one lifetime – literally thousands upon thousands of different brands, all vying for your hard-earned. Ascertaining which makers are the successful ones is pretty simple. If they’ve been established for anything more than two years and they’re still … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant
The watch industry has a remarkable way of pulling together when times are tough. We see it every other year with the Only Watch auction raising money for muscular dystrophy. Jack Nicklaus auctioned his Rolex Day-Date last year to raise money for unwell children, and John Goldberger did the same with his unique white gold … ContinuedThe post Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Can We Still Take Limited Editions Seriously, Or Is That Already A Rhetorical Question? – Reprise
Limited editions used to be a rarity, but they started to become more popular in late 1980s and early 1990s, almost like a snowball rolling down a hill that gets bigger and bigger. Martin Green wonders if we can still take LEs seriously at all.
Quill & Pad
Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech: Volcanic Basalt Now A High-Tech Material In Watch Cases
Fibratech is the latest example of Panerai creating ever sturdier and more durable watches for those who seek adventure. Joshua Munchow examines the brand-new Luminor Marina Fibratech and delves into the cool technology of the new material. You might be surprised where it comes from!
Deployant
Review: Zenith Elite Moonphase
Zenith revamps the Elite collection of unisex watches. The classic line now comes with a new dial and case design. The Elite Moonphase is available in two sizes, 36 mm and 40.5 mm, understandably the equivalent of two sizes for ladies and men.
Quill & Pad
Vintage Watch Snobbery AKA How I Met Your Mother – Reprise
Standing before his eyes was the most perfect of God’s creatures, a wonderful mix of Audrey Hepburn and Penelope Cruz. What Makes Me Tick thought his heart had skipped a beat, and he heard the chimes of every single minute repeater Patek Philippe had ever created – all chiming at exactly the same time! Six months later the gentle creature and he were married. This extraordinary story reflects the marvelous world of vintage watches: finding the rare bird, linking it to a story, and never letting it go.