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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections Fratello
Breitling which will manufacture Sep 3, 2026

Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections

Gallet is returning to the watch industry in 2026, exactly 200 years after its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The historic Swiss name returns as a sibling brand to Breitling, which will manufacture the new watches and provide the infrastructure behind them. The relaunch centers on four collections — Flying Officer, Multichron Pilot, Multichron Sport, and […] Visit Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections to read the full article.

In Partnership - Gatherings: The Porsche Way Of Swiss Watchmaking Comes To Watches Of Switzerland SoHo Hodinkee
Porsche Design s new watch manufacture Jun 30, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: The Porsche Way Of Swiss Watchmaking Comes To Watches Of Switzerland SoHo

Hot on the heels of the opening of Porsche Design's new watch manufacture in Grenchen, Switzerland, Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland (the exclusive authorized watch retailer of Porsche Design in the U.S.), hosted an evening with the brand here in New York City. The night served as a perfect window for local collectors to explore Porsche Design's approach to watchmaking, including the latest watches and an impressive selection of heritage timepieces from the brand. After some time spent mingling and socializing along a bay of new and vintage Porsche 911s parked on Greene Street, attention turned to the conversation between Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang and Porsche Design Brand Ambassador (and actor) Orlando Bloom. In a wide-ranging discussion, TanTan and Orlando discussed the history of Porsche Design watches, highlights from their shared visit to the brand's newly opened Swiss Manufacture, and speculation about what's to come from the iconic design house. Housed at the base of the Jura Mountains, in the former home of Eterna Watches, the new headquarters of Porsche Design Timepieces represents a clear example of "The Porsche Way" of watchmaking. Since Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche expanded his design philosophy from cars into the large Porsche Design lifestyle brand in the 1970s, the new factory allows the brand to further its extraordinary level of technological innovation and intelligent design. A watchmaker from the newly opened Swiss Manufacture showcased the ...

The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026 Monochrome
Glashütte Original manufacture has strongly focused May 22, 2026

The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026

In the past few years, Union Glashütte, the sister brand of the more high-end Glashütte Original manufacture, has strongly focused on connecting its watches with car-related events and car-inspired designs. Take, for example, the Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025, the Noramis Date Deutschland Classic 2025 with an MB wheel-inspired design, or the BBS-styled Noramis Date […]

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

Introducing - The New Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition Monochrome
Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition Sep 2, 2025

Introducing - The New Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition

The German house of Lang & Heyne has long been an advocate of the highest levels of traditional watchmaking, proudly showcasing not only the manufacture’s capabilities in every single watch, but also the refined Saxon style of watchmaking as a whole. The levels of finishing are among the very best in the industry, often mixing […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen 1 Oct 13, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2

It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, it’s time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week’s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 to read the full article.

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Frederique Constant released 39m ago

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, Frederique Constant released its classic perpetual calendar with a new movement, the FC-776, and eighteen months later, the brand is releasing a burgundy edition of its Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100 pieces. As Mark wrote when the previous edition was released right before last year's Watches and Wonders, the watch "has been one of if not the premiere affordable mechanical perpetual calendar on the market," and with the burgundy edition, the brand is offering a limited edition option to the collection. The polished stainless steel case measures 40mm by 12.25mm and has an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, 50 meters of water resistance, and an engraved case back carrying the individual edition number. The sunray-finished dial shifts from deep wine tones to brighter reflections, with a Côtes de Genève pattern on the counters. The day sits at 9 o'clock, the date at 3 o'clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o'clock. The moonphase at 6 o'clock runs against a midnight-blue background with laser-engraved stars. A chemin de fer minute track, applied faceted hour markers, and polished hands, and the fluted onion crown complete the dial. The Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition, comes on a black alligator strap with a folding buckle and includes a second strap in burgundy alligator with an easy-open deployment clasp. It is priced at $12,995, limited to 100 pieces, and is available now. What We Thin...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Oct 11, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a vodka martini, shaken, not stirred. In this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we end a busy Bond week with a battle between good and evil. On Monday, Omega released a duo of new Seamasters to celebrate Global James Bond Day on October 5th (chosen because it marks the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 It’s Oct 4, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and another watch battle. This week, our Sunday Morning Showdown is a contest between two divers that immediately stand out in a crowd. In the saturated world of dive watches (no pun intended), both the Ianos Amfivios and the Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Ianos Amfivios Vs. Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 to read the full article.

Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sep 29, 2026

Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret

Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Sep 27, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist

It’s another Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee and a heated watch battle. This week, Daan is back, and he takes on Jorg once more in a clash of two cult favorites. Daan’s pick is the recently released 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Murph. The Murph has become a proper darling […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm Fratello
Tissot Gentleman 38mm It’s Sunday Sep 20, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re pitting two affordable daily wearers against each other. They represent different sides of the watchmaking world, with one hailing from Switzerland and the other from Japan. But both brands have gained a lot of respect from watch enthusiasts […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 Fratello
Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 Sep 6, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a coffee and a heated installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. After a busy week with plenty of Geneva Watch Days madness, it’s time to settle down and enjoy a lazy Sunday. The only excitement comes from this battle of sporty three-handers. Both are derived from popular chronographs, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 to read the full article.

Introducing - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 3, 2026

Introducing - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue

The Dual Time GMT Resonance is one of Armin Strom’s signature creations, first launched in 2018, revisited in 2024 and presented in several distinctive editions, including the steel-cased Black Edition, the rose-gold version with a black-and-gold dial, and, most recently, the Aventurine edition. Now, the new Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue offers a […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3 Fratello
Straum Aug 30, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3

Welcome, one and all, to the weekly spectacle that is Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re giving Daan a break and bringing our illustrious head of content, Nacho, into the ring. In the red corner, defending his six-win streak, is Jorg. More importantly, the watches going head-to-head today are two angular, adventure-ready titanium timepieces from […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38 Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Aug 23, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Blancpain surprised us this week with a vintage reissue of its 1968 Bathyscaphe. The 37.4mm case of the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary features a sunburst dial and faux patina, while there’s a ceramic bezel insert and a modern automatic movement inside. Of course, Blancpain […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200 Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Aug 2, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200

On this summery Sunday morning, we dive into a Swatch Group battle. This week, we picked two dive watches from popular Swatch Group brands to determine which you prefer. Daan will back the revamped Khaki Navy Scuba Auto that Hamilton unveiled recently. The brand updated the dial design with new indexes and a wave pattern […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200 to read the full article.

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” Fratello
Seiko SKX Aug 1, 2026

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle”

There is a very specific kind of watch that changed how I think about this hobby. This watch was not particularly expensive, and it was not Swiss. It did not come in a velvet-lined box or carry a story about a master watchmaker in some atelier within a Swiss valley. It came in a cardboard […] Visit The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 26, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a cup of coffee and a battle between two watches to start your day. For this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we have picked two chronographs from sister brands. Daan picked the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” This smaller version of the Black Bay Chrono gained […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.