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Results for Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Introducing – The New Kollokium Projekt 02 FFF&F; Edition, A Layered Take On Neubrutalism Monochrome
Oct 8, 2025

Introducing – The New Kollokium Projekt 02 FFF&F; Edition, A Layered Take On Neubrutalism

Kollokium, the project-led collective founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi (The Horophile), follows its debut series with a second, fundamentally different object. Projekt 02 pivots from the “pin dial” language of Projekt 01 to a sculptural, topographical dial built from stacked plates, housed in a slimmer monobloc case. The Friends, […]

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 7, 2025

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan

Raymond Weil adds a new reference to its elegant and handsome Millesime Moon Phase 35mm with a Japan-exclusive Special Edition overseen by Masayuki Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The watch retains the compact proportions, sector-dial grammar, and restrained vintage cues that made the 35mm Millesime line such a hit, then sharpens it with a two-tone […]

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Oct 6, 2025

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes

Citizen has introduced a trio of limited edition watches in their Series8 collection, all of which are inspired by Japanese cityscapes and urban environments. It’s a bit of a departure for the Series8 collection in terms of aesthetics, or at least the point of inspiration, as these watches have typically ruminations on the natural world, or are simply stark, traditional designs that highlight the geometry of the case and integrated bracelet. These new watches all have quite a bit going on in terms of dial texture and the use of gold tones, neither of which are exactly subtle in these references.  The centerpiece of the three new LEs is a new 880 Mechanical, reference NB6035-55H, which has a gray coated case and bracelet and a textured white dial with gold tone accents. According to the Citizen, the design inspiration here is that of city lights on fallen snow against an asphalt backdrop. Of the three new watches seen here, this is the only one equipped with a GMT complication, so we also get a white and black 24 hour bezel that complements the dial quite nicely. The movement is a Citizen caliber 9054 (made by Miyota), which has local jumping hour capabilities. The case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.55mm tall, and it’s a limited edition of 1,600 pieces with a retail price of $1,695. The other two watches in Citizen’s cityscape trilogy are both 890 Mechanical references, essentially a diver with an internal rotating bezel. The NB6060-58H is likely the most straight...

Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase Fratello
Raymond Weil Oct 6, 2025

Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase

Stylish, thought through, sophisticated… These are just a few words to describe the 35mm Japan-only Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase. This limited edition of 100 pieces was brought to life with Masayuki Hirota, the editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The small watch is clearly a historically inspired Millesime, with its sector dial marking the hours, […] Visit Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Oct 3, 2025

Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches

The Longines Spirit Pilot watch collection was released back in 2020 and I recall going hands-on with the then-new pilot’s watches, which were a blend of contemporary with a dash of vintage styling. Since then, the brand has clearly listened to the response from enthusiasts who have been generally receptive to the collection, but with some consistent points of criticism. Namely, the five stars on the dial were divisive and even though it comes in 37,40, and 42mm case sizes, none felt like they hit that “Goldilocks” zone for a lot of people. Fortunately for those buyers, Longines just dropped two new watches that might be the best in the collection so far: the Longines Spirit 39mm three-hand and the new Flyback in a 39.5mm case. Longines Spirit 39mm Pilot's Watch First, let's look at the Spirit Pilot three-hand watch which comes in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm wide and 11.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. While the gap between 39mm and 40mm doesn’t sound too dramatic, the latter has a lug-to-lug that measures just shy of 50mm which is simply too big for a lot of people. And 37mm is just too small for many of those same people. So, with that established, it’s not hard to see why this 39mm case size is so well received. The rest of the case is simple enough with alternating brushed and polished finishes, a sleek bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal with dual-sided AR coating. Finally, it also offers 100 meters of water resistance. Then there...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Calendar Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...

Orient Star’s Manual-Wind Moon Phase is Slick and Silicon SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 29, 2025

Orient Star’s Manual-Wind Moon Phase is Slick and Silicon

The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding is the brand’s first manual-wind moon phase, and also the first in years with a solid dial, making it a refreshing change of pace from the brand’s usual fare that leans towards open-worked and occasionally over-designed styling. Initial Thoughts Excepting the vintage inspired Diver 1964, the M45 F8 moon phase is the most attractive watch in the Orient catalog to my eye. Most of the brand’s designs are too busy for my tastes, so these entries are a welcome departure that will certainly appeal to enthusiasts with more classical tastes. The moon phase disk itself, with mother-of-pearl inlay, is a highlight. And the absence of a seconds hand is a pleasant surprise, though the moon phase sub-dial feels naked without the traditional co-axial small seconds hand. Since the small seconds version of this calibre is not compatible with the moon phase module, Orient could have moved the Orient Star logo onto the sub-dial for more visual balance. Most importantly, this is a manually wound watch – with a competent movement – in a price segment where such things are hard to find. Looking at Japanese watches in particular, manual wind options from Grand Seiko and Credor are significantly more expensive, while Seiko, Orient, and Citizen dropped their entry-level manual watches years ago. Pleiades About two years ago, Orient Star reorganised its catalog by launching M Collections, a family of watches each named after astron...

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Fratello
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Glashütte Origin... Sep 25, 2025

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.

Introducing – Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica Monochrome
Formex Dresses Sep 25, 2025

Introducing – Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica

Formex, founded in 2000, is renowned for its rugged action watches. The brand’s bestselling Essence, a sporty, all-terrain model with sharp case architecture, a patented suspension system, and COSC-certified movements, made its debut in 2018 and was refreshed in 2021 with a wider range of dial colours. Marking its 25th anniversary, Formex released its first […]

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s UFA Sep 25, 2025

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time

Grand Seiko unveils a second model in its Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) collection, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005. Featuring a violet-black dial inspired by Shinshu winter sunrises and powered by the latest generation spring drive technology, it represents everything Grand Seiko does best. Limited to 1,300 pieces, the 37 mm SLGB005 is made from the brand’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel, an especially hard-wearing alloy that’s making its debut in the Evolution 9 Spring Drive line-up. Initial thoughts The Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 “Ice Forest” was arguably one of the most important releases of this year, finally delivering a long-awaited mid-sized Grand Seiko Spring Drive, complete with an adjustable clasp and tightened accuracy rating. The SLGB005 feels like a worthy counterpart in another metal, quantifiably excellent inside and out. The SLGB005 retains the nearly perfect proportions of its titanium sibling at 37 mm in diameter and 11.4 mm thick, in a slightly heavier Ever-Brilliant steel case. Though Grand Seiko has used this material in the past, it’s the first time it’s been used for a Spring Drive watch in Evolution 9 guise, and also the first to be made at Shiojiri. This is a new colour of an existing dial pattern. Grand Seiko’s dial work is always excellent, especially the hands and dial furniture, which are finished to unusually high standards. The Spring Drive movement remains the same and excellent. While not mechanical, I’d argue that Spr...