Results for Patek Philippe Calibre 89

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 6, 2023

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT

It has been a little over two years since Zach introduced the first iteration of Traska’s Venturer. A multipurpose sports watch which boasted incredible specs for your hard earned money. While the first model retailed for $585 and was equipped with a time and date Miyota 9019, the new version retails for $720 and is equipped with a “true” GMT Miyota 9075 caliber. That’s a meager $135 extra for a completely different movement which offers a new type of functionality: traveling like a pro. What’s more is that the brand added a tool-less micro-adjust clasp and gave the case a gentle facelift whilst improving its overall construction and finish. What’s not to like here? There are many ways to discuss watches. It could be its design, value, or the use of a unique movement. To be fair, many of us like to talk about value. We all like a good deal and the thing about micro and independent brands is that the “deals” get better and better each day. More specs, better construction, improved finish. Things just keep getting better. And you might find that the new Venturer GMT may very well be one of the best value GMTs out there right now by just looking at the spec sheet: a true GMT caliber, box-style domed sapphire crystal, tool-less micro-adjust clasp, 150 meters of water resistance, generous application of BGW9 lume, and a case and bracelet made of hardened steel. This makes the Venturer GMT a true travel companion and a proper tool watch.  Traska was one of the f...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents Oct 9, 2023

The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve

Citizen has developed an all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement, bringing a year of running time on a full charge The Citizen Eco -Drive 365 is releasing in three new models, one of which is a limited edition based on the original Citizen Quartz EFA from the 1973 The Eco-Drive 365 is the latest watch … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Kurono Tokyo Introducing Sep 4, 2023

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement

We probably should have seen this one coming: the new watch from Kurono Tokyo, the affordable offshoot of Hajime Asaoka’s eponymous and very high end independent brand, is a GMT equipped with the new Miyota 9075 movement. This is a new complication for Kurono, and it makes sense that the brand waited to launch a GMT until an affordable, Japanese made, caliber with local jumping hours became available. The new watch, dubbed simply the Kurono GMT 1, feels very much of a piece with other recent Kurono releases, simply extending Asaoka’s Art Deco infused design codes with some new functionality.  The conceit of this watch, according to Asaoka, is that a GMT is a complication highly desired by those traveling the world for business purposes, but watches that are equipped with this feature often find themselves in the sport category. While I think any serious watch lover can probably poke a few holes in that theory, it led Asaoka to create an apologetically not a traditional sports watch. Like all Kurono watches, this is an aesthetic object first and foremost, with design flourishes that exist simply to look good, rather than serve any specific functional purpose. The watch was also designed with conservative “business” fashion in mind, which from Asaoka’s perspective hasn’t changed a whole lot through the years, which lends the GMT 1 a traditional look that, while not vintage inspired, wouldn’t look out of place in the 1950s or 60s.  The dial features multiple s...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Urwerk s Aug 30, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II – Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically

What makes watches so expensive? It’s a question enthusiasts ask themselves at the beginning of their horological journeys, and later on, a question we find ourselves answering from curious friends and family. The answer comes down to options. Not all watches are powered by in-house movements, but some are. And if that’s what you’re into, companies will ask you to chip in for the research and development required to develop a new caliber. Likewise, not all watches go through extra testing to confirm accuracy to a few seconds per day. But if that level of reliability is a priority for you, plenty of brands are willing to provide that service for a fee. With enough rationalizing, it’s easy to see how even six digit price tags offer fair value. On the other end of the spectrum, if those options that increase MSRP don’t excite you, then maybe a one watch collection of a single $15 Casio F91W makes the most sense…but where’s the fun in that? For most of us, myself included, the sweet spot lies somewhere between the Casios and the Urwerks of the world. In the previous installment of Selling Point that Don’t Sell Me I explored what options excite me on my personal quest for quality on a budget. But enjoying watches at modest price points doesn’t mean I can’t still be picky. And so, for this installment of Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me, I’ve compiled my personal list of deal breakers and pet peeves. This list is less focused on keeping costs low, and mo...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch Jun 23, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations

Grand Seiko love to celebrate anniversaries, unveiling countless special editions to commemorate milestones of the manufacture. Today, however, Grand Seiko helps Disney celebrate their 100th anniversary with a remixed version of their SLGH011 “Green Birch”. Looking at the front of this 100-piece limited edition SLGH025, everything is exactly the same. But flip it over and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Greubel Forsey Jun 18, 2023

Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk

The Oscillon duo of Buser and Devanthey have created the second release of Naissance d’une Montre with the Naissance d’une Montre 2. Using Oscillon’s own L’instant de vérité caliber as a base, one already designed to be made entirely by hand, the Naissance d’une Montre 2 brings the glory of the past to something that would make sense in any futuristic setting.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” May 18, 2023

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet

Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Speake-Marin May 10, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication

These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series May 6, 2023

New: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series

Discover the new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series with an upgraded Caliber 6R5J movement, enhanced design, and traditional Japanese motifs. Read our review for details on the case and dial, movement, and price. Available starting in June 2023.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 30, 2023

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT

The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber  It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium  The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces  GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Apr 28, 2023

Zelos Introduces their First GMT with the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” Movement

The rise of the affordable “true” GMT continues to be a strong trend in the microbrand arena, as more and more ready new watches sporting the Miyota 9075. This caliber is beginning to feel like a true game changer in the space, allowing brands whose bread and butter are sub $1,000 watches to offer a much sought after complication that consumers would previously have to spend many times that amount to acquire. The latest entrant in an increasingly crowded marketplace for these watches is an old favorite of ours: Zelos.  Zelos watches have always represented value, whether we’re talking about divers under $500 or a Swiss tourbillon with a case made from exotic titanium alloys. Their watches have a colorful, materials oriented style that places a high value on texture and provides their customers with something unique. For this first batch of GMTs, which are part of the Mako line, each option is quintessential Zelos, meaning that even the most conservative watch in the group is still pretty memorable.  Of the three new GMTs that make their debut today, the most simple is the Mako 300M GMT Frost, which appears at first to be a stark white dial, but is actually fully lumed, so when the lights go out and the lume is completely charged, the entire dial glows, with the “black lume” hands and hour markers standing in relief. The orange arrow in the GMT hand and a bit of text in the same shade are the only additional colors found on the dial, which is somewhat unusual fo...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 22, 2023

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come…

In Succession, Kendall Roy is a twitchy psychodrama of a man in a cashmere baseball cap.  His personality flip-flops and flop-flips from one scene to the next. One moment he’s grandiose and narcissistic, the next he’s pitifully insecure. But most of all, Kendall is just very, very sad as he yearns for his father’s approval … ContinuedThe post Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Accutron Here we have Apr 20, 2023

eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko Unveils Mar 28, 2023

Grand Seiko Unveils the Tentagraph, a New Sports Chronograph with a Three Day Power Reserve and High Frequency Movement

This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year.  With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small.  Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Mar 27, 2023

Introducing: The New JLC Reverso Small Seconds Takes A Colorful Turn

Flip the new ultra-slim Small Seconds Reverso and you'll find 4 different colored dials.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Jacob & Co. Mar 20, 2023

Unveiling Jacob & Co: The Epic SF24

The Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 is a watch that is so unapologetically original that it takes the classic world time complication and flips it on its head. Instead of using hands or rotating discs to indicate the 24 major timezones, it utilises a remarkable innovation called the Split-Flap system to display a selected timezone […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nivada Grenchen Collabs Owner’s Edition Plus Mar 15, 2023

[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction)

This edition of On-Wrist Reaction is a little different, with Zach and Blake both bringing personal watches to the table which the other has yet to see. We’ve got two very different, and very cool collaboration watches: one from Louis Erard and atelier oi, and the other from Nivada Grenchen and this here outfit, Worn & Wound. This isn’t just any Nivada Grenchen, this collab features the legendary Valjoux 72 caliber beating away inside. Likewise, the Louis Erard takes a hard contrast to what we’re used to seeing from them, let alone in regulator style watches writ large.  Oh, and we’ve got a bonus reaction to a new watch from Vaer called the R1 Chronograph. No, it’s not the 38mm variant. But it’s still all kinds of cool and we take a closer look fresh out of the box. You can read more about this watch right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post [VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays Mar 8, 2023

The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer

Introducing the Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura Limited Edition, with cues of glacial colours Inspired by the conquests of one of Japan’s best-known explorers Powered by a GS-derived automatic movement, the Caliber 8L35 Naomi Uemura was a man of focus, commitment and sheer will. He was the first person to solo-climb Denali, the highest mountain peak … ContinuedThe post The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Chopard Mar 2, 2023

In-Depth: Everything You Need To Know About The Early Chopard L.U.C Collection

How Chopard's first in-house caliber 1.96 set the stage for 25 years of top-tier watchmaking.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Omega Mar 1, 2023

Introducing: Omega Sets A New Standard Of Accuracy With The Speedmaster Super Racing (Live Pics & Pricing)

The caliber 9920 isn't just accurate, it arrives with a new method of regulation.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 Feb 6, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch

Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Longines Feb 1, 2023

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu

The Longines Ultra-Chron takes its most direct inspiration from a dive watch the brand introduced in 1968, but it also represents the culmination of Longines’ expertise in making high-frequency watch movements, which goes back more than 100 years. Longines’ century-plus quest for high-frequency timekeeping precision started in 1914, when it produced the first hand-held stopwatches (like the one below) with movements that measured time to 1/10 second thanks to their high-frequency movement, Caliber 19.73N, whose balance wheel oscillated at 36,600 vph. It continued with a modification of that caliber to achieve an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph, and a stopwatch accuracy of 1/100 second, in 1916; hit a new milestone with the launch of the Observatory Chronometer in 1959, the first wristwatch with a 36,600-vph movement; and culminated with the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Diver (below) in 1968, which became the world’s first high-frequency divers’ watch, housing the 36,600-vph Caliber 431. (Yes, this predates by one year the most famous high-frequency movement, the Zenith El Primero, though that movement also incorporated automatic winding and a chronograph.) The Ultra-Chron Diver provides the template for the all-new Ultra-Chron model, whose cushion-shaped stainless steel case spans a contemporary 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick as well as a 300-meter water resistance - an improvement on the vintage model’s 200-meter rating. Like its predecessor, and in th...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Tudor BB58 Dec 11, 2022

Video surfaces proving Tudor BB58 is compatible with Ranger T-Fit bracelet

As someone who once owned the original Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight and BB58 Navy Blue, I can say they were both constant wears within my collection when I owned them. Now, to be clear, I did not “flip” the two watches. Both were lost as a result of the necessary “one in, one out” philosophy … ContinuedThe post Video surfaces proving Tudor BB58 is compatible with Ranger T-Fit bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Dec 7, 2022

Talking Watches: With John Goldberger, Part 2

The legendary collector and scholar returns with a dozen vintage watches of the highest caliber – and you'll probably never see anything like this again.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jaeger-LeCoultre Nov 29, 2022

The Spec Sheet: Going Art Deco With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Put your JLC down, flip it and reverse it.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Rolex Movement Takes Oct 22, 2022

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Oct 11, 2022

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons

Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.

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