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Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Since Jun 4, 2023

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...

Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny Premieres this Month, and a Hamilton Boulton is Featured on Indy’s Wrist Worn & Wound
Hamilton Boulton Jun 1, 2023

Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny Premieres this Month, and a Hamilton Boulton is Featured on Indy’s Wrist

The fifth, and presumably final, installment of the Indiana Jones series hits theaters at the end of June, and with a title like Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, you kind of had to expect that there would be a watch tie-in. For this film, the watch on Indy’s wrist is a Hamilton, a fitting choice given the character’s occupation (the most heroic archaeologist in cinema history) and the long history of the brand showing up in major Hollywood movies. Hamilton watches have been featured on the wrists of movie stars for nearly 100 years, worn by everyone from Elvis Presley to Matthew McConaughey (with the watch sometimes playing a critical role in the storytelling). While it remains to be seen if the watch itself is a plot point in Dial of Destiny (we’ll let you know as soon as we see the film), the Hamilton Boulton selected for this new installment helps draw in some of the finer details of one of the all-time great movie characters.  Indiana Jones is a character with a well established aesthetic. He’s one of a small handful of characters that movie buffs can easily identify with only a silhouette, or by the sight of a key prop. Indy’s fedora and whip have helped to establish a specific iconography for the character since Raiders of the Lost Ark premiered in 1981, so it’s important to get the watch right as well – it has to exist within an environment that is already well established and understood by fans of the franchise.  The Boulton is part of Hamilto...

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite May 28, 2023

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani”

A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch May 28, 2023

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1?

Welcome to another episode of WHAT IF…, where we ruminate on the alternate reality of a watch industry in a parallel universe. For this installment, we take a look at TAG Heuer’s Formula 1, a legendary part of horological history, famed not for its elevated status, but for its fun-loving appeal to even non-watch people. … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Reduced It’s fair May 21, 2023

5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced

It’s fair to say that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the most famous watches of all time, up there even in the minds of the uninitiated. As the watch that went to the moon and thrived on racetracks, it’s cemented a strong legacy within horological history and has become a stylistic icon. As … ContinuedThe post 5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 May 18, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake Revolution
Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ May 17, 2023

Up Close with Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake

We are excited to unveil our latest collaboration - the Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake. Inspired by the golden age of Art Deco design, our limited edition Vulcain Cricket features a very special two-tone Bellini and anthracite-colored dial, and a sector track like those made popular by brands such as Patek […]

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut May 13, 2023

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race

Why do watch fans love a good historical reissue? I can think of two reasons. First off, horological history has such a deep trove of interesting, important references to draw from, with a ton of classic models and innovative designs waiting to be discovered by new generations of fans. Secondly, they’re cool as hell, and … ContinuedThe post The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver Time+Tide
Rolex May 8, 2023

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver

Some of the most iconic models in the history of horology became so because they offered something unique. A new case design or a new concept, that was then transferred to new types of watches. Take Rolex for example. The brand developed the Submariner and then adapted the case and dial design to make a … ContinuedThe post Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Smiths’ Everest Adventure: The Other "Explorer" Watch That Made Mounta Teddy Baldassarre
May 5, 2023

Smiths’ Everest Adventure: The Other "Explorer" Watch That Made Mounta

The Smiths Watch Company traces its history all the way back to 1851, the year that its founder, Samuel Smith, Sr., opened his watch and clock shop on Newington Causeway in London. Like other horological concerns in the late 19th Century, the family firm, originally dubbed S. Smith & Sons, specialized in pocket watches. It was quite successful, eventually moving its headquarters to a larger venue on London’s bustling Strand and opening shops in the fashionable Piccadilly and Trafalgar Square marketplaces. By the early 20th Century, S. Smith & Sons had staked out a substantial spot in British watchmaking history, producing in 1900 the groundbreaking “mileometer,” a device that combined a speedometer and an odometer; and becoming a trusted purveyor of timepieces and other instruments to the Royal Family in 1904, when King Edward VII commissioned a speedometer from the firm for his personal Mercedes motorcar. It was the rise of the automobile, in fact, that brought Smiths much of its expansion in the coming decades. Another company, Smiths Motor Accessories, opened up in 1914, run by Samuel Smith Sr.’s grandson Allan Gordon Smith, which produced carburetors, speedometers, and other accessories for the growing automotive industry. With the onset of the First World War, the company also started making onboard instruments for aircraft and fuses for bombs.  The Smiths added another offshoot company, devoted to making English clocks, in 1931, and acquired, among other fi...

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch Apr 27, 2023

Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve

Christopher Ward has revealed an entirely new collection called The Twelve, an integrated bracelet sport/dress watch with slim dimensions, a slick dial texture, and, naturally, a 12 sided bezel piece. The new watches take a broad slice of inspiration from history, and land in relatively familiar territory as a result, however, as a whole, end up representing something unique in the sub $1,500 price range: a fully integrated steel or titanium bracelet paired to a sub 10mm case with a chronometer spec movement inside. The brand is quite upfront about taking a page out of history with this one, going so far as directly naming the standard bearers to place their watch in some pretty prestigious company right off the bat.  The Twelve is a 40mm watch that gets steel and titanium variants. The steel examples measure 9.95mm in thickness, while the titanium pair shave a full millimeter off that number to crack just under 9mm. The lug to lug distance is 44.5mm, and that measurement appears to be taken from the ends of the case that link to the bracelet, which are fixed male pieces. The weight of the steel watch is 65 grams, while the titanium tips the scales at a mere 41 grams. Overall, an impressive set of numbers that should equate to a pretty incredible on-wrist experience, though we can’t say for sure until we’re able to get some hands-on time with it. Each of the material options utilize Sellita automatic movements, with the steel getting an SW200 rated to +/- 20 seconds p...

Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve Time+Tide
Christopher Ward enters Apr 27, 2023

Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve

Making desirable watches affordable, let alone available, is a struggle that many brands are currently facing. From the entry-level to the high-end, each desirable piece went through a period of unavailability, while many have also increased in price since their release – MoonSwatch, PRX, Nautilus, just to name a few. Christopher Ward, champion of the … ContinuedThe post Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil Lenny Kravitz as their new Ambassador Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil Lenny Kravitz as Apr 27, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil Lenny Kravitz as their new Ambassador

At Watches & Wonders this year, I got talking to Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier about all the famous people who’d worn her brand over the years from Charlie Chaplin to Pablo Picasso.  If she could choose anyone from history to be a JLC ambassador, I asked, who would she pick?  “Leonardo Da Vinci,” she replied. … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil Lenny Kravitz as their new Ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier Apr 24, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success

At last year’s Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre dazzled attendees with their Stellar Odyssey collection accompanied by a mesmerising stall. This year, they calmed us back down with an exploration of their beauty and history, as exemplified by a spectacular hologram and water display at the centre of various craft demonstrations. Take a deep breath and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Special Edition: Revving Up With A Bold Color Scheme – Reprise Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Apr 23, 2023

TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Special Edition: Revving Up With A Bold Color Scheme – Reprise

Watches and Wonders 2022 marked the introduction of the new Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Edition, which is all about the detail of color. It harks back to an episode in the chronograph’s 1970s history when American oil company Gulf and Heuer were both major sponsors of Formula 1 teams. And the good news is that it isn't a limited edition.

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.