Deployant
HYT CEO Gregory Dourde on H1 Colorblock, X Series and Future Projects
The grail for HYT is to have a fully fluidic watch with fluid regulation system and power supply; for now, it celebrates 3 with the new H1 Colorblock.
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Deployant
Deployant
Rado Ceramica gets a design update from Konstantin Grcic
The minimalist Rado Ceramica is reinvigorated by the talented industrial designer Konstantic Grcic. Iconic linearity returns with a new retro-futurist face.
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia: New design accents for SIHH 2015
The Lange Saxonia was one of the four original watches introduced a bewildered watchmaking world in 1994. The other 3 being the now iconic Lange 1, the visually arresting Arkade and the technical showcase Pour le Mérite Tourbillon. Three new models have been announced in this pre-release: the Saxonia, the Saxonia Automatic and theRead More
Revolution
Panerai And Its New Boutique Design
Boutiques are becoming more and more important in the strategy of watch brands to sell their product to the public. Of course their is a lot in favour of the boutique. You can have you own staff, focus only on your product and really immerse customers into the world surrounding your brand. Most watch brands […]
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931: A Treat That Never Ends
Sometimes you just get bored with it; Brands that release a seemingly never-ending avalanche of variations of existing models, the difference between them often minor. The same could have been said of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 collection, yet here however, every new variation seems to actually make sense. Not in […]
Revolution
Panerai Reminds Us Of Their Iconic Dial Design In Singapore
The prototypical Panerai is easily recognised from a distance, thanks in part to the iconic crown guard flanking the case. This feature was added as a revision to the earlier “Radomir”, with the intention of adding a crown protecting bridge that would prevent water from entering the case. This shape that these two elements formed […]
Revolution
A Decade Of Design: Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye’s Collection Turns Ten
While most men have a preference for round watches, women dare to be different. So it is no wonder that a watch like the Girard Perregaux Cat’s Eye is celebrating it’s 10th anniversary already. With its exceptional oval shape, the Cat’s Eye collection certainly has a unique presence that appeals to women, otherwise the collection […]
Revolution
In Conversation with Don Cochrane, Owner of Vertex
A year after our first meeting, Revolution talks to Don Cochrane about the “Dirty Dozen”, his reborn family business and sharing the Vertex love with Revolution.
Quill & Pad
El Dorado Rums: Not Cheap but Incredible Value for Money
In Ken Gargett's opinion, El Dorado rums from Guyana are superb, and compared to what one might find at similar prices for whiskies and cognacs, they remain incredible bargains.
Time+Tide
Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight
Tyson Fury has always had an eye for a nice watch. As Anthony Joshua once recalled, back when he was an amateur, Fury would go around London gyms looking for sparring partners and offering anyone his Rolex if they managed to knock him out. It’s a passion that has endured as he’s become one of … ContinuedThe post Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: I'd Trade My Own Brother For One Of Grand Seiko's Hand-Wound Spring Drive Watches
Confession: I don't actually have a brother. (But Grand Seiko doesn't need to know that.)
Revolution
Zooming In With Grégory Dourde, CEO HYT
CEO of HYT watches, Grégory Dourde brings Revolution through some of their recent launches in 2020.
Fratello
Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection
Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Watches & Wonders 2023 Starts Monday: Brace Yourself For New Releases From Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And Dozens More
The team is in Geneva and new watches are in the air.
Monochrome
First Look - Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds
Ressence is not what one would call a conventional watchmaker, and let’s hope it never will be. Since its founding in 2010, Benoît Mintiens’ Antwerp-based brand has built its catalogue and reputation by rethinking what a mechanical watch should feel like rather than what it should represent. This time, Ressence reaches out beyond its own […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Circles Back On A Classic Design With Another Killer Prospex Re-Interpretation (SPB313, SPB315, and SPB317)
Back at it again and thinner than ever.
Hodinkee
Announcements: Ressence & Sotheby's Launch A Design Competition And Auction To Support Coronavirus Research
Get your colored pencils ready – it's "Time To Draw."
SJX Watches
Krayon’s Parhelion is a Halo Watch, Literally
Krayon, the independent that nearly perfected the sunrise and sunset complication for Anywhere and Everywhere on the planet, applies its no-half-measures approach to gem-setting with the Parhelion. Set with 171 sapphires in a gradient from dark blue to colourless, a dozen of which are a unique “Krayon cut”, the Parhelion is a halo product that seeks to recreate a magical moment the brand’s founders experienced in the arctic. Initial Thoughts Given my affinity for baguette set watches and astronomical complications, I don’t stand much of a chance against the Parhelion, a chilly, high jewellery version of the Anywhere. This isn’t Krayon’s first gemset watch, which would be the Everywhere, but is the best yet. I especially appreciate the creation of a novel fancy cut “Krayon-cut” which preserves the hour marker’s original form, something that is often lost in gem-set versions of originally non gem-set watches. Of course, this only worsens the Anywhere’s only fault – other than lack of summer time adjustment – pushing the Anywhere’s already high (if justifiable) price tag over the half-million dollar mark. That is a lot of money, but it is also a lot of watch, and still well below Patek Philippe’s sapphire-set Celestial. Near-Artic Encouter Caused by sunlight passing through hexagonal ice crystals in high-altitude clouds, parhelia (more commonly, sundogs) are a type of halo that mimics a second, and usually a third sun. The effect is most common, an...
Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime
This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarians. Today's post was written by Miranda Marraccini. Little kids love to touch things. If you've ever been a parent or even just spent time with a toddler, you'll know that an unattended cup of coffee, a billowing plastic bag on the street, or a dirty toy in the sandbox is a temptation no small child can resist. But it's also an amazing quality, because kids are great at hands-on learning, including in the field of horology. In our library collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), we've got plenty of books that show kids how to tell time. Books, however, can only go so far—and I'm saying that as a librarian. For interactive horological fun, our library boasts a selection of kits, games, puzzles, and toys to handle and assemble. Image 2 One of the most charming specimens of children's education we have is a 1940s–1950s era "junior clockmaker construction set" (image 1). On the lid of the box, a proud-looking papa in a full suit (presumably just returned from his job at a midtown advertising agency) watches over his two delighted children, who are working on their toy clock. The completed clock is shown on the left—a traditional chalet-style Black Forest or cuckoo clock, ornamented with festive boy and girl figures dancing over a 12-hour dial, two twee ducks, and a tulip motif. The blond boy on the box is staring straight at the viewer, holding the partially assembled gear train,...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up
The recent management changes at TAG Heuer and the wider LVMH Watch Division have given birth to a surprising collaboration: the Monaco Speed 12, an avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s iconic square wristwatch that’s powered by the Spin Time movement made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Instead of cubes, hours are indicated by a dozen rotating pistons – the concept is a homage to the V12 engine – that seemingly float in a concentric ring around the dial. Inside the titanium case is a self-winding movement that retains the signature recessed frosting of LFT. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has been having a good run with technically interesting watches – the Monaco Evergraph is a recent example – and the Speed 12 continues the momentum. Admittedly, the Spin Time movement is not in-house, but it is surprisingly coherent despite the drastically different characters of TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton. The Spin Time complication translates well into TAG Heuer’s automotive-inspired style, both in terms of concept and execution. Also in its favour is the restyled Monaco case that TAG Heuer has employed in other recent launches. Thought still a little chunky, it is sleeker and more ergonomic than earlier iterations of the design. The price tag of US$87,000 is similar to that of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time Air, which unfortunately makes this just a little expensive. Given the case material and TAG Heuer’s traditional price focus, a price that’s 15-20% lower would ...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Movado Polyplan, An Impossible Rolex 1680, And A Full Set Patek 3970
William Stafford wrote, "I'd just as soon be pushed by events to where I belong." While I wouldn't claim it is great or wise to have a single line from a single poem weigh too heavily on anyone's life, those dozen words have exerted a monumental pull in my own existence. I'm not by nature much of a planner, and the line offered itself as a little sophisticated rejoinder I could tell myself when confronting my chaotic life, but I also think the wisdom the line offers is useful. And you're sitting there at your computer or on your phone going "Dude, I came here to see watches, not some diatribe about poetry or chaos or whatever," but the line, oddly, has played out in my own life in watches more than anywhere else. If you're familiar with Bring A Loupe as it has existed over the years, you've maybe noticed I include fewer dealer picks than was common in the past, and I am 100% blaming a line from an old poem for that. While I know there's nothing inherently better or worse about buying watches through auctions or dealers, auctions are most interesting to me because of their inherent unpredictability. Over a decade ago, a vintage Tudor Ranger popped up on eBay. It was cheap enough that I wouldn't lose money selling it if I didn't like it, so I bought it. I thought nothing at all of whether I loved the watch, had never had any deep desire for that particular model—it's just what was there, that day. Most of the watches I've fallen hardest for—a '69 Speedmaster on Craigslis...
Fratello
Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case
Panerai excels at advancing watchmaking through bold material innovation. Its latest breakthrough introduces the world’s first watch case machined from hafnium. The metal appears here in a 47mm Submersible case. Hafnium ranks among the rarest industrial metals on Earth. Global output measures only a few dozen tons annually. The element exists solely within zirconium ores […] Visit Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Ceramic Watches: A Brief History and 15 Top Models from Entry-Level to
Ceramic watches not only offer a host of practical attributes, such as lightness, hardness, scratch-resistance and hypoallergenic properties, but also, increasingly, a very intriguing range of color options as watch manufacturers continue to explore the science of ceramics and refine their own ceramic-making processes. In this article we take a brief look at the history and the technology of ceramics in watchmaking and showcase (in ascending order of price) more than a dozen of the best ceramic watches on the market today. [toc-section heading="Defining Ceramics"] First off, it’s worth clarifying what we’re talking about when we refer to “ceramics” in terms of watchmaking (as opposed to, say, pottery). In scientific terms, a ceramic can be succinctly defined as “an inorganic non-metallic solid made up of either metal or non-metal compounds that have been shaped and then hardened by heating to high temperatures.” While the word “ceramic” comes from a Greek word referring to pottery (keramikós), it has come to be associated with other materials including glass, cement, and what are generally called high-tech or “advanced” ceramics, as in the type used in aerospace, automotive, electronic and other industrial applications, including watchmaking. Whereas pottery and its various subtypes - earthenware, stoneware, porcelain, to name the major ones - all use types of clay as their main ingredient, advanced ceramics utilizes a far more wide-ranging and c...
Worn & Wound
Cartier Introduces a New Santos in Titanium (and a Cool Steel Reference with Lume)
When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche. And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. Ac...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Six Takeaways From A Full Spring And Summer Season Of Watch Sales In Geneva, Hong Kong, And New York
Don't call them trends; here are a half dozen things I learned by paying close attention to the public watch market as of late.
SJX Watches
Business News: Jean-Christophe Babin is CEO of LVMH Watches
Bulgari’s longtime boss Jean-Christophe Babin has just been appointed named chief executive of LVMH Watches, effective April 1. He succeeds Frédéric Arnault, who was recently named to lead Loro Piana. Mr Babin will lead the watch division in addition to being chief of Bulgari, the Italian jeweller he has led in 2013. With a dozen years at the helm, Mr Babin is one of the longest-serving bosses in luxury. His successor at Bulgari, however, is already in place; Laura Burdese was named deputy chief executive last year. In his new role, Mr Babin will oversee the three brands that make up the watch division: TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari.
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Review
Back in the 1950s, Blancpain produced about a dozen chronographs for the United States Air Force. While these were never commercially produced, they are now highly sought-after collector’s pieces. In fact, I don’t think there has been one offered on the market since 2019 when one went at auction for about $150,000. It’s hard to guess what it would fetch in today’s market, but considering hammer prices for limited-run pieces with this kind of historical provenance, I would venture to say it would be quite a bit more. So, with such an attractive and storied Flyback Chronograph in its archives, it was no surprise 2019 also saw the release of Blancpain's limited-edition Air Command Flyback Chronograph reissue, followed by a titanium iteration done in blue/back in 2021. This was followed by the introduction of a 36mm case joining the existing 42.5mm model which-while less true to the 42mm of the original- made a splash with collectors who have found themselves fatigued with beefier cases. Now Blancpain has released a limited-edition pair of these titanium Air Command watches in an excellent camouflage green with options in both smaller and larger case size. While I was only able to get my hands on the smaller Blancpain Air Command in the 36.2mm wide case, I have actually tried on the previous blue model in the larger case and found myself preferring this more compact size. It’s been a while since I checked my wrist circumference (yes, watch nerds sound crazy to ...
SJX Watches
Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025
Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...
Worn & Wound
Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture
Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so. The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...
SJX Watches
Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches
Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...