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Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Nov 10, 2025

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier

The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history.    Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX Sep 25, 2025

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again

At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement.  “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...

Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec Worn & Wound
Tudor Pro Cycling Sep 18, 2025

Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec

Québec City carries its history on every corner-stone walls, cobblestones, cafés spilling into narrow streets. For a few days in September, it also carried the buzz of race bikes and the weight of a UCI WorldTour peloton. Tudor brought us here to see their Pro Cycling team take on the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec. The race is unusual compared to most on the calendar. Instead of rolling through countryside, the riders loop through Old Québec, climbing and descending the same punishing circuit until it breaks them. Crowds lean over barricades, the sound of cheers bouncing off limestone walls as the peloton flashes past again and again. Our trip began with a chance to meet the Tudor Pro Cycling riders. They rolled in straight from training, relaxed but sharp, already thinking about the course. Later, in the subterranean car park beneath Hotel 71, we were shown the workshop: rows of bikes worth thousands apiece, mechanics tuning, polishing, preparing. A hidden paddock carved out of concrete, the quiet backbone of the sport. Dinner that evening was with Tudor and a handful of other journalists at Laurie Raphaël. It was polished dining, but the conversation stayed grounded-how a team operates at this level, what it means to link a watch brand with a sport that demands grit and repetition. FXD watches at the table looked at home: tough, precise, made for use. Race day carried a nervous hum. The morning was cool, the sun cutting through by midday. From Tudor’s hospital...

Introducing – The Micromechanical Embroidery Dial of the Fil d’Or Louis Erard x Wire Art Monochrome
Louis Erard x Wire Art There’s Sep 1, 2025

Introducing – The Micromechanical Embroidery Dial of the Fil d’Or Louis Erard x Wire Art

There’s no stopping Manuel Emch’s relentless drive to democratise watchmaking by producing highly original content and métiers d’art dials, thanks to collaborations with designers, artists, studios and artisans for Louis Erard. The latest collaboration is a surprising marriage of traditional embroidery executed with a machine designed to bond microcircuits reprogrammed by Wire Art, Switzerland, to […]

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Trakke is Back, The Clingman Knife, Tributes to Val Kilmer, and New Colors for Xeric Worn & Wound
Apr 5, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Trakke is Back, The Clingman Knife, Tributes to Val Kilmer, and New Colors for Xeric

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.   The Clingman: Taylor Martin’s First Knife Taylor Martin, better known for his Youtube Channel “Best Damn EDC”, has designed and launched his very first knife, The Clingman. Inspired by Taylor’s Appalachian roots, it combines modern steel, a liner lock, and smooth ball bearing action to create a knife that might remind you of the one your grandfather carried. It features a 2.99″ (75.9mm) blade in Nitro-V steel, with a front flipper and thumb studs. Just like the knife your grandfather carried, it’s built for daily carry and heavy use.   Val Kilmer: A Man Known For Many Roles Known to some as Iceman in Top Gun and Batman in Batman Forever to others, Van Kilmer has passed away this week. During his career as an actor, Val worked with a number of “A List” actors with roles across a number of different genres.  BBC gas compiled a list of his most iconic roles, which you can find here.    A New Hue For Xeric’s Timeline In late February,  our very own photographer,  Garrett Jones, spent some time with Xeric’s newest watch, the Timeline Dual Retrograde.  Built upon a Miyota 9015, Xerics X5.1 movement uses a custom built module to achieve its retro...

Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors Fratello
Hermes Mar 5, 2025

Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors

There is no time to waste. The watch department at Hermès has been very busy - busy enough to release no fewer than six new watches ahead of next month’s Watches and Wonders. The novelties include a 12-set limited edition of three Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune watches in surprising colors plus two new […] Visit Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors to read the full article.

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 1, 2025

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille Jan 20, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration

I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review Teddy Baldassarre
Angelus Nov 18, 2024

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review

Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors.  When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot.  The ...

First Look – The New Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Indianapolis and Silverstone Editions Monochrome
Angelus Oct 16, 2024

First Look – The New Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Indianapolis and Silverstone Editions

Founded in 1891 by the brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz in Le Locle, Angelus earned fame as a producer of chronographs. Following a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015 with edgy, contemporary models that didn’t really capture the past soul of the brand. However, last year, Angelus created its La Fabrique collection, a special […]