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Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph Time+Tide
Tissot s new Telemeter 1938 Oct 16, 2022

Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Tissot has been the name on everyone’s lips recently since the release of their category-disrupting integrated bracelet juggernaut, the ’70s-tastic PRX. But the brand’s horological history does, of course, go back more than 150 years, all the way to 1853. A page from their rich back catalogue serves as inspiration for their elegant … ContinuedThe post Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart

With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Oct 8, 2022

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Urwerk Every Moment Counts’ Oct 6, 2022

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore

Coinciding with the launch of the UR-120 with its novel, split-cube display, Urwerk is documenting its journey from the very beginning with an exhibition in Singapore that’s part of the brand’s 25th anniversary celebration. Organised in collaboration with its Asian retailer The Hour Glass, Every Moment Counts offers a look at the brand’s history through its historical products as well as intriguing archival photographs, all straight out of the brand’s museum. Other items on show include sketches, trophies, and memorabilia that offer a full picture of the brand and its two founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. At bottom right is a sketch of one of the brand’s foundational models, the UR-101 Reflecting the brand’s philosophy and house style, the exhibition has a futuristic aesthetic, such as the neon green and black display for the historical timepieces that brings to mind the luminous time display found on many of the brand’s watches. But the exhibition is also about nostalgia and includes a “Watchmaker’s Studio” with soft lighting that showcases photos from the founders’ childhood, which played a major role in shaping their avant-garde approach to watchmaking. The exhibition includes landmark watches like the UR-103 and UR-201 For technically-minded enthusiasts, the “Immersive Room” displays the exploded movement of the UR-111C on the wall, revealing in detail the workings of the intriguing cylindrical drum display. The UR-111C Every Mom...

VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen Time+Tide
Hamilton developed their quirky side Oct 4, 2022

VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen

Last time, Andrew and Luke took us through the key moments of Hamilton’s history cemented in Hollywood films such as The Frogmen and Interstellar. But, while military-issued watches were a massive part of the brand’s popularisation in the United States especially, the experimental period of Hamilton Electric and Pulsar was really what developed their quirky … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand Time+Tide
Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch Sep 27, 2022

Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand

When it comes to making scene-stealing appearances in film, Hamilton has been a fixture on the A-list since the 1930s. No other watchmaker has enjoyed the same presence, recognition or sheer amount of screen time in Hollywood history. Perhaps it’s down to Hamilton’s broad range of models with everything from delicate dress watches to rugged … ContinuedThe post Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements: 4-Part Series Looking At Breakthroughs, Golden Years, And Predictions For The Future Of The World’s Most Iconic Watch Brand – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements 4-Part Series Looking Sep 25, 2022

The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements: 4-Part Series Looking At Breakthroughs, Golden Years, And Predictions For The Future Of The World’s Most Iconic Watch Brand – Reprise

In 2019 we ran an interesting four-part series by Tim Mosso of Watchbox fame detailing the history, present, and future of Rolex movements. Tim put hours and hours’ worth of research into this oeuvre, and now we thought it well worth drawing your attention to this series again in case you missed it first time around. Enjoy!

MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail

As a microbrand, Hemel have very much found their niche and stuck to it. Regarding military watches as the forefront of horological development throughout history, Hemel have chosen to evoke some of the most important field, diver, and pilot’s watches, particularly from the WWII era. Today we put a spotlight on the expansive Hemel HFT20 … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Hemel HFT20 Series delivers affordable pilot’s watches with a real attention to detail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C collection Chopard Sep 18, 2022

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection

Chopard is a brand fighting on many fronts. Their offering encompasses jewellery and watches, with the watch side of the maison covering everything from sporty chronographs and quartz stainless-steel pieces to haute horlogerie sapphire chiming pieces and jewel-encrusted creations. The Chopard L.U.C collection builds on the history of the brand and its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, … ContinuedThe post The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide

The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...

Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 27, 2022

Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches – Reprise

Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World Quill & Pad
Aug 26, 2022

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World

Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.

Rolex Explorer Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 23, 2022

Rolex Explorer Guide

The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...

6 of the most unlikely watch spots from Daniel Craig to Jason Bateman Time+Tide
Aug 22, 2022

6 of the most unlikely watch spots from Daniel Craig to Jason Bateman

Who doesn’t love a good watch spot? You know you’re in the presence of a true watch geek if they feel the need to pause the film every time a timepiece makes a cameo. But at times, these discoveries can feel a bit predictable. Musicians are constantly found wearing AP Royal Oaks or Nautilus references, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the most unlikely watch spots from Daniel Craig to Jason Bateman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can Aug 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche)

When car manufacturers and watch brands team up, the word ‘heritage’ gets thrown around a lot. It’s true that watchmaking and motorsport have gone hand in hand for decades and they have a lot of shared history to pull from, but it may also be that mechanical watches just can’t escape that rose-tinted prison of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 7, 2022

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them)

EDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face … ContinuedThe post The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Early Roger Dubuis Perpetual Calendar That Deserves Your Attention Revolution
Roger Dubuis Perpetual Calendar Aug 5, 2022

An Early Roger Dubuis Perpetual Calendar That Deserves Your Attention

Wei and Jeremiah discuss Roger Dubuis, the man and his watches, and how they are a clear reflection of his incredible watchmaking journey. The latest offering by Revolution Curates is a Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar that rightfully deserves the attention of collectors for the significance of its place in watchmaking history and technical […]

The CVSTOS Sealiner PS is a miniaturised luxury yacht for the wrist Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2022

The CVSTOS Sealiner PS is a miniaturised luxury yacht for the wrist

Have you ever wondered why yachting watches are such a popular sub-genre? Although the vast majority of dive-watch owners never venture deeper than a couple of metres below sea level, we can all understand the appeal behind the ruggedness, history and utility of the category. Yachting watches on the other hand are such a quaint … ContinuedThe post The CVSTOS Sealiner PS is a miniaturised luxury yacht for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.