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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai suffered from widespread store Jul 16, 2020

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020

Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko I must have written May 15, 2020

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko

I must have written and rewritten this yarn half a dozen times. Every single moment I think I’ve cracked it, something in watch world happens that completely changes the narrative and content. First, everything got cancelled because of the pandemic we’re all sick of talking about. Then Patek and Rolex said no new watches this … ContinuedThe post James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase May 13, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design. In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal. For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a m...

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home SJX Watches
Ming book – “I love Apr 18, 2020

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home

A tall man with a grave face who is always stylishly dressed, Auro Montanari is better known as John Goldberger, the pseudonym under which he has published over a dozen scholarly books dedicated to watches. Auro is best characterised as someone with diverse and deep interests, making him a truly interesting individual. So speaking with Auro is always a pleasure, which is something Phillips specialist Tiffany To recently managed to do. At home, stylishly. Photo – Auro Montanari Now at home in Bologna, a wealthy industrial hub that’s home to Lamborghini, Auro is putting the finishing touches to Time to Race, a near-500 page tome covering the watches worn by auto-racing champions of the mid-20th century, an era when drivers wore watches as a necessity, and not because they were brand ambassadors. Auro’s desktop with Time to Race in progress. Photo – Auro Montanari Highlights from Time to Race. Photo – Auro Montanari In a three-part interview, Auro discusses the upcoming book – “I love cars, I love watches, and I put them together and blend everything” – as well as his varied life. Though Auro is a industrial-control software entrepreneur by profession, his interests have taken him around the world in a hunt for watches, and he also lived the Californian dream for a spell in the 1980s. Auro, circa 1982. Photo – Auro Montanari The white gold ref. 3450. Photo – Auro Montanari He describes the years spent in Venice Beach, during which he chanced upon a whi...

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren’t quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you’re missing something when you don’t wear a watch. But this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel - is it a steal? Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux s Laureato Jan 25, 2017

HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel - is it a steal?

Let’s get this out of the way early on. Does the Girard-Perregaux Laureato share some visual similarities with other well-known luxury steel sports watches? Sure, but we can easily think of half a dozen watches that fit that particular bill. AP and Patek don’t have a monopoly on ’70s design. And make no mistake, the Laureato … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Partnership - Happenings: Watches of Switzerland to Host First Public Exhibit of 2026 GPHG Winners In London Hodinkee
2 days ago

In Partnership - Happenings: Watches of Switzerland to Host First Public Exhibit of 2026 GPHG Winners In London

Watches of Switzerland will be the first to present the public exhibition of the 2026 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) winners at their Watches of Switzerland Knightsbridge showroom.Widely regarded as the highest distinction in contemporary watchmaking, the GPHG celebrates the year's most exceptional achievements in innovation, craftsmanship and design. Following the awards ceremony in Geneva, this exclusive exhibition will bring together the winning timepieces, offering collectors and enthusiasts a rare opportunity to experience the watches shaping the future of horology. From the 19th through the 23rd of November 2026, visitors can immerse themselves in a unique showcase of the industry's most acclaimed creations and discover the artistry behind the world's finest watchmaking houses. Attending or not, readers can discover more about this year's nominees at this link. This event is produced in partnership with Watches of Switzerland and the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

First Look - H. Moser & Cie. Drops Two Heritage Models, Including a new Chronograph Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Drops Two Nov 2, 2026

First Look - H. Moser & Cie. Drops Two Heritage Models, Including a new Chronograph

When thinking about indie brand H. Moser & Cie., you might have either the integrated Streamliner, the sporty Pioneer or the elegant Endeavour collections in mind. There is, however, another range that should be mentioned: a more discreet range with vintage-inspired design cues, the Heritage. Defined by its drum-shaped case with wire-like lugs, it makes […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Touchscreen Macbook, A New Porsche Collab, and Zenith’s Uncertain Future Worn & Wound
Zenith s Uncertain Future Porsche Oct 31, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Touchscreen Macbook, A New Porsche Collab, and Zenith’s Uncertain Future

Porsche x La Marzocco 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Collection It’s well established that I’m not a car guy. And it’s also well established that I have the palate of my Midwestern forebears, meaning gas station coffee is just fine by me, thank you very much. But when it comes to design, I’m a bit of a snob, looking to both Porsche and La Marzocco as the pinnacles of who I’d want to be, had life and a trust fund turned out differently for me. Put those two together and – mein Gott – all I can say is mamma mia. The two brands are teaming up for a second time, this time taking inspiration from the Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7. The centerpiece is a limited-edition version of La Marzocco’s Linea Micra espresso machine, available in historic Porsche color combinations including Grand Prix White and Green and Tangerine and Black. Carrera RS lettering, the historic Porsche logo and a cup rail shaped after the car’s famous ducktail spoiler carry the reference through the machine. There’s also a matching Pico grinder, along with a smaller collection of coffee accessories and apparel in the same RS 2.7 colors. The collection is available now through Porsche’s online store with prices ranging from $59 to, ahem, $7, 911. Major Changes Could Be Coming to Zenith Not very often in this little space of mine do I get to write about hard-hitting watch industry news, but a report from Revolution caught my eye this week. According to reporting cited by Revolution from Le Temps and Bus...

Recapping Fossil Signature’s Launch at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026 Worn & Wound
Fossil Oct 30, 2026

Recapping Fossil Signature’s Launch at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026

Fossil’s new Signature Collection made its debut at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, with a behind-the-scenes film, a Q&A; with Senior Creative Director Ryan White, and the first chance to get the watches on the wrist in the Fossil Signature Lounge. Fossil is taking a fresh swing at enthusiast watchmaking with Signature CS-1, a new collection built around thoughtful design, elevated materials, and Swiss craftsmanship. Launched at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, the collection brings Fossil’s distinctive design sensibility to a new premium watch platform. And we got to kick things off with a morning dedicated to the people who matter most: the watch enthusiasts who showed up ready to see what it was all about. A week before the fair, we shared a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the Fossil Signature Collection, filmed at Fossil’s Dallas headquarters with Ryan. We also extended an invitation: come watch the film with us, here from Ryan directly, and get your hands on the watches before the rest of the fair got underway. The Screening Before Windup opened its doors on Saturday and Sunday, we gathered for the premiere of our short documentary, tracing the collection from its first spark of inspiration to the finished pieces. Seeing it on a big screen is one thing. Seeing it in a room full of people who care about how watches get made is something else entirely. The Q&A; Next, our Head of Partnerships, Kyle Snarr, sat down with Ryan for a conversation that picked up right wh...

Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur SJX Watches
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Oct 30, 2026

Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur

Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...

Introducing - Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT Monochrome
Citizen Brings Damascus Steel Oct 29, 2026

Introducing - Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT

With its Series 8 collection of mechanical watches, Citizen has been delivering rather impressive models over the years, with the GMT collection being possibly the most appealing of them. Not only is it powered by a true GMT automatic movement (something rare in this price range), but Citizen has dared to bring singular designs, colours […]

Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” Hodinkee
Rolex Stelline dials Oct 29, 2026

Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star”

What We Know Early this year, SJX and Habring released their second collaboration with Habring² for the Chrono-Felix Medicus, which seemed to be an overwhelming success with two variations. Now they're throwing things back to their first release, the Erwin "Star," with a new, more complicated base model. The new Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual "Star" uses a relatively new (for Habring) movement design of a monopusher chronograph and a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module to make a watch that's still a great value for how complicated it is. The watch is very obviously inspired by vintage "Galaxy" style watches, like the famous Rolex Stelline dials that fetch incredible prices. The watch uses a black glossy lacquer dial with matte black subdials (with a concentric snailed finish). The dial features eight applied gold-plated star indices, matching hands, and even a gold-plated moonphase to match the entire design. Various other indices (especially for the calendar) are also printed in gold. The case is made in stainless steel, 38.5mm by 13mm, with a mix of brushing and polishing. The triple-stepped bezel helps mask the calendar module while housing the adjustment pushers along the edge. The manually wound movement runs at 4Hz and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The base is that Habring² A11 chronograph base, visible through a display caseback. The finishing of the levers (straight graining on the top and polishing on the bevels) was done in Germany by th...

Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 SJX Watches
Armin Strom s Minute Repeater Resonance Oct 26, 2026

Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59

Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition doesn’t just chime the current time, it chimes the best time (12:59) to show off its Westminster Carillon of four hammers chiming on four gongs. The watch combines the clever chiming complication with a clever chronometric innovation: a pair of sprung balances connected by an elastic “resonance clutch spring”, one of the brand’s signature invention. And all of that somehow squeezed into a water-resistant, 42 mm case that is slimmer than most chronographs. Initial thoughts Armin Strom’s repeater probably deserves an award for the brand’s most improved product. Its predecessor was 47.7 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm tall, while this is a wearable 42 mm and only 11.7 mm thick. That makes it slimmer than a Rolex Daytona — though most of the height is borne by the mid-case, making the watch look thicker than it is. It’s also somehow more water resistant, up to 50 m from an already solid 30 m, yet it costs just 2% more at the current retail price. That is before mentioning the Westminster Carillon, demonstration-chiming mode, and the more attractive design. The “demonstration mode”, which allows the watch to chime 12:59 on demand regardless of the current time, is well executed and suits the job of the repeater in the 21st century, which goes beyond simply telling time in the dark. Furthermore, the sound is good — pleasant and audible — but wristwatch minute repeaters have improved dramatically in ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX Fratello
Tissot PRX Howdy folks! Oct 25, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX

Howdy, folks! And welcome back to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re putting up two watches that are similar in many ways, despite being produced in countries separated by just under 10,000 kilometers of land (and a little bit of sea). Both of them draw inspiration from 1970s design. They feature integrated bracelets and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX to read the full article.

(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil s Toccata Heritage Revive Oct 23, 2026

(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking?

Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage wears its inspiration on its sleeve, but is the flash backed up by substance? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, flowing case Beautiful movement Incredible price point What We Don’t: Soft but fragile strap Power reserve feels low compared to on-paper Is luxury ever attainable? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The definition of luxury is, for the most part, anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the hundred-million-dollar, feature-laden superyacht crewed by Playboy models, or perhaps it’s something as mundane as a carton of eggs at the grocery store. I find that luxury is relative to one’s financial circumstances: a want that’s just slightly out of reach, not entirely necessary to one’s sanity or physical wellbeing, but something whose acquisition feels like reaching a new level in life. This is entirely different from a pipe dream, such as the aforementioned superyacht, but the watch world often treats the two as one and the same. Luxury watches aren’t often considered truly luxurious until they cross a certain price threshold, usually somewhere in the high four or five figures, if not six. But ‘accessible luxury’ isn’t quite the oxymoron the industry might have you believe, and Raymond Weil is proof. Since 1976, the independent watchmaker has sought to make traditional elegance more attainable, offering classically styled timepieces at comparatively acce...

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...

Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton Makes Depth a Virtue SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2026

Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton Makes Depth a Virtue

The Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton reveals the young independent’s debut movement in greater detail, pairing its inventive “dancer” micro-rotor with extensively reworked bridges and elaborate hand finishing. The skeletonised design gives the Monday a more distinctive identity, turning the movement’s substantial thickness into an asset through its layered architecture. Initial thoughts The Monday Skeleton feels like an important step for Renaud Tixier, an independent brand founded in 2024 by Dominique Renaud, an industry veteran and co-founder of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker with a broad skillset that encompasses everything from prototyping to finishing. Most skeletonised watches share an inherent weakness, which is that they tend to resemble one another — stripping away the dial removes much of what distinguishes one watch from the next. But Renaud Tixier’s identity is rooted primarily in its engineering and craftsmanship, and the brand’s debut calibre is sufficiently distinctive that revealing it arguably gives the Monday Skeleton a stronger identity than those of its predecessors with conventional dials, which felt somewhat generic. The Monday’s raison d’être is its clever “dancer” micro-rotor system, which aims to increase winding efficiency with an integrated spring-loaded flywheel. This approach was developed by Mr Renaud, who was inspired by the energy recovery systems used in hybrid automotive powertrains. This system of...

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical? WatchAdvice
Zenith s Chronomaster Revival A384 Oct 19, 2026

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?

Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...

Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts Oct 19, 2026

Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night

We know the trend of all black watches well – what was once a novelty has now become a regular part of most catalogs, so perhaps we can no longer call this a trend but an industry staple. I think the monochromatic concept really works on many different levels. It can make a watch ultra stealthy and discrete. For some models, it just looks sleek and sexy. For others, it can actually serve to bring out the best in the design. On the other end of the spectrum, we have models with so much tone on tone on tone – lacking any contrast through materials or textures – you can barely read them. These watches have understandably undergone some scrutiny. However, I find it a cheeky commentary on the fact we don’t really need our timepieces for any utilitarian purpose, and a color palette can simply be a design choice.So, in typical Ressence fashion, we have a twist on the all-black aesthetic with a deep blue hue the brand is calling Dark Night. If you’re familiar with Ressence, you know the brand is anything but motivated by trends – the opposite. This is a brand who literally came into being by asking the question, what if someone were to build a blueprint for a watch for the first time today without any constraints of what a watch should look like? The result was the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) offering human-centric readability with a layout engineered to look and process like a two-dimensional digital screen lacking traditional hands or a crown. Instead, the ...