Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH003 Hi-Beat 60th Anniversary LE, Featuring The New Dual Impulse Escapement
Grand Seiko's new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5, in steel for the first time.
Results for Patek Philippe Calibre 89
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003
Grand Seiko has progressively introduced a diverse line up of watches to mark its 60th anniversary, ranging from a remake of the vintage 3180 to the heavily jewelled 8 Days to the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, while also opening the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi production facility. Now the brand has finally reached the last of it anniversary watches with the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGH003. Although the 60th anniversary watches are numerous, the most significant was the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002, which was powered by the newly-developed 9SA5, the first of a new generation of movements that will underpin the Grand Seiko collection. The SLGH002 was available only in 18k yellow gold and correspondingly pricey, but now the movement is available in the all-steel SLGH003. Initial thoughts From the perspective of being a more affordable version of the yellow-gold SLGH002, the SLGH003 is appealing. It’s still an expensive watch – the retail price is US$9,700 – but a lot less than the US$43,000 of the gold model. But from the perspective of it being one of several anniversary editions, many of which share the same dial colour, it is less appealing. That is especially so given that the 9SA5 movement will inevitably be made available in regular-production models that will probably cost a bit less. So if the colour and design is a big draw, then the SLGH003 is a buy. If not, just wait for the next one. Anniversary livery The SLGH003 h...
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko T0 Constant-force Tourbillon – World Premiere For A Tourbillon With Co-axial Remontoir
Grand Seiko unveils a concept caliber T0 - Constant-Force Tourbillon with an interesting new double cage design for a remontoir tourbillon.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Concept Tourbillon, The First Tourbillon Movement From Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko's new concept tourbillon is its first tourbillon, and its first constant-force caliber as well.
SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue
To commemorate the 60th anniversary of its first extra-thin wristwatch that was launched in 1957, Piaget launched a series of anniversary watches in 2017, including the flagship Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry watch, powered by the cal. 670P caliber that’s a mere 4.6mm tall. Piaget has since continued the series with additional variants featuring exotic dial materials, such as last year’s Altiplano Thin Meteorite. And now Piaget unveils the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, a trio of limited-edition, high jewellery tourbillon wristwatches decorated with the infinity symbol rendered in diamonds. Initial Thoughts The race to produce the thinnest wristwatch ever reached its zenith in the 1970s and 1980s, after which tastes shifted in the new century towards ever-larger watches, particularly with the rise of luxury-sports watches. But some watchmakers, notably Bulgari and Piaget, have continued to slim their watches. In that context, the Tourbillon Infinite Blue does not do anything revolutionary, but take takes a tried-and-true formula and elaborates on it with a high level of execution. Baguette diamonds on the bezel and dial, brilliant-cut diamonds on the case band and lugs of the Ref. G0A45044 Like many other modern-day extra-thin watches, the largish diameter of 41 mm is necessitated by the movement’s architecture, which sees the components are spread out, instead of stacked up as in a conventional movement. The size and thinness of the bezel means that the w...
Quill & Pad
New A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone For 2020: All The Time In The World, Including Daylight Saving
Fifteen years after its original launch, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone gets a mechanical upgrade in the form of a new caliber that includes a daylight savings time indication among other new features. Elizabeth Doerr looks at the Lange 1 Time Zone's evolution and what's so very special about this new model.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years …
Despite the temptation to re-tune our tiny violins and cry to the world that our virus numbers have skyrocketed and that we’re all on the brink of yet another endless day indoors, I’m going to flip this one to the positive and talk about the kinds of amazing, heartening and impressive letters and emails we … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone – with new movement (webinar invite!)
The Lange 1 Time Zone gets an update with a new in-house caliber movement and dial changes 15 years after its introduction. What has changed? What remains?
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s
The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono
Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Why The Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary SLGH002 Is Some Of The Biggest Watch News Of 2020
The new Hi-Beat caliber offers the first new series-produced escapement in over two decades.
Deployant
New: F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 2020 with Editorial Commentary & Analysis
F. P. Journe celebrates 20 years of the Chronomètre à Résonance with a new rendition of the resonance watch, with a new movement - the caliber 1520.
Deployant
New: IWC Portugieser Novelties for 2020 with Editorial commentary
We love that the popular chronograph gets an upgrade to an in-house chronograph caliber. This is very important for IWC to stay competitive especially with Georges Kern's Breitling B01 chronograph caliber. At around the same price but with a stock movement, the older model Portugieser Chronograph would become a party joke without the much needed upgrade.
Revolution
Introducing The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication
The caliber 945 in a new case and dial layout celebrates 10 years of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, celebrating The Art of Sound by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph
A complicated Portugieser is the new home for IWC's caliber 89900.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Privé Collection Tank 'Asymétrique Skeleton'
The Privé Collection Asymétrique debuts with an openworked in-house movement, caliber 9623 MC
Deployant
Review: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace
The watch is priced at US$6,990. It's got a nice dial, a fun complication and is rather good looking. Considering its approach, the brand might be going for a more accessible 'Van Cleef & Arpels' Poetic collection. At 40mm, the watch is large for most ladies' wrists, especially for the Asian market.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #170: The One Watch Collection: Is It Even Possible?
This week we wax poetic on the profundity of the “one watch collection”… and debate whether such a thing is even possible anymore.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Movado Datron Sub-Sea Chronograph’s Lost Story: Reuniting with Movado – Part 1
Powering the Datron is the base Caliber 319 PHC movement. However, you’re probably more familiar with its alias, “El Primero,” as marketed by Zenith. The two are virtually identical. As “the first automatic chronograph..."
SJX Watches
Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2
Two years ago, German independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke announced his first proprietary movement, the Kaliber 1, which was developed in collaboration with Habring2. A year later, the movement has made its debut in a pair of classically-styled watches – the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2. Both models mark a stark departure from his earlier watches both in terms of design and price. Based in a small town east of Dresden, Kudoke was best known extravagantly engraved, skeletonised timepieces, often powered by a Unitas-based movement (which meant they were all relatively large). But the latest Kudoke watches are far more understated, as well as attractively priced, starting at just over US$7,900. In fact, these watches present a compelling proposition, offering an unusual level of hand-decoration for its price bracket, save for a handful of other small independents, such as D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The Kudoke 1 Gently hand-engraved The Kudoke 1 is a well-designed watch showing the hours, minutes and seconds, while the Kudoke 2 replaces the seconds with a wonderfully engraved day and night indicator. Both watches are compact and thin enough to wear comfortably, though not quite so thin as to be true formal watches. Instead they feel like elegant everyday watches with discreet, appealing details in the hands, dial and movement. The two have the same steel case that’s 39 mm wide, but differ slightly in thickness due to the addition of the domed day and night indicator in the Kudoke ...
Revolution
Introducing Grand Seiko’s New Professional Diver, with a New Spring Drive Movement
On its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko goes modern with a new Spring Drive caliber, that takes its modern watchmaking to a new level.
Quill & Pad
Carl Suchy & Söhne Waltz N°1 Review: A Month On The Wrist
Jan Lidmaňský thinks that his white shirt and jacket went just fine with the Carl Suchy Waltz N°1, but that it's not for universal use. Forget t-shirts and jeans and don’t even think about shorts and flip-flops. It suits the elegant look of a businessman – so suit up when you wear it! What else did he learn?
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0
Every year there’s a couple of timepieces that, for one reason or another, slip under the collective radar of us watch enthusiasts. There were more than a few examples in 2019: think the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, Rado Golden Horse, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic … the list goes on. But the watch that tends … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Bernhard Stoeber To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The third-generation watchmaker will discuss the evolution of Caliber 321. (The movement that went to the Moon!)
Time+Tide
Cheap thrills: 3 top chronographs for under a grand
Chronographs are, to this day, one of the most useful complications you can find on a wrist watch. They’re just so practical - whether you’re timing your next run, daily commute or next lap time around the Phillip Island Grand Prix track, a chronograph has got you covered. Thing is, though, because of its complexity, … ContinuedThe post Cheap thrills: 3 top chronographs for under a grand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s)
1969 marked the introduction of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. These were presented by Zenith with its El Primero, Seiko with the 5 Speedtimer, and an illustrious group consisting of Breitling, Heuer/Leonidas, and Hamilton/Büren, with the Chronomatic Caliber 11. Sabine Zwettler takes us through the history and looks at three of the latest-generation commemorative automatic chronographs by these early pioneers.
Deployant
Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Steel
The Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar in steel is priced at €15,000 and is easily one of the lowest priced, if not the lowest priced Swiss made perpetual calendar in the market at retail. It's a good looking watch with a good caliber.
Revolution
Introducing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine
If you give someone the moon, why not the stars too? H. Moser & Cie brings a new poetic interpretation to its Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept watch.