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Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 When Feb 6, 2020

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02

When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...

Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Nov 12, 2019

Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000

One of the most interesting lots in the second instalment of Masterworks of Time at Sotheby’s that just concluded was a seemingly unassuming pocket watch with an estimate of just 7,000-10,000 Swiss francs. But the pocket watch contains a movement with a single gear train driving double balance wheels linked by a differential, constructed to keep time according to the principles of resonance. This is one of the very movements that inspired Philippe Dufour to create the Duality. And its appearance at auction comes at an opportune time, with F.P. Journe going to launch an entirely new Resonance movement in 2020. The Philippe Dufour Duality Mr Piguet of Lemania The movement was made by Albert G. Piguet (1914-2000), a noted watchmaker who finished the movement in 1933, just before graduating from the École d’Horlogerie in Le Sentier, then the premiere watchmaking school in the Vallee de Joux. He joined movement maker Lemania after graduation, and eventually rose to technical director. Piguet stayed in that role from 1948 to 1980, during which he helped develop numerous calibres, including the important CH27 chronograph movement that later became the cal. 321 found in the early Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, and also the cal. 2310 used by the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Piguet’s 1933 pocket watch movement is just one of six produced between 1932 and 1934 by students at the watchmaking school, working under the tutelage of headmaster Marcel Builleumi...

OPINION: Custom watches – cool or cliché? Time+Tide
Rolex or Oct 26, 2019

OPINION: Custom watches – cool or cliché?

CWe watch enthusiasts love an excuse to come over all opinionated, don’t we? A little “controversy break” from our worship of calibres and references. So how about this: after-market customising. Would you or wouldn’t you? Is it cool to ice-up a Patek and black-out a Rolex – or is it a crime against horology? One … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Custom watches – cool or cliché? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas are well Sep 1, 2019

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London

Best known as a watch auctioneer par excellence, Phillips recently established Perpetual, a watch store inside its London showroom on Berkeley Square. A permanent showroom offering watches year-round, Perpetual was conceived to offer clients something to buy in-between the twice-yearly watch auctions. Perpetual comes a few months after the successful pop-up store that took place in March, where a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was purchased by Jean-Claude Biver, the legendary watch entrepreneur who’s now the non-executive chairman of the LVMH watch division. The watch department in London, led by financier-turned-watch-specialist James Marks, is the first outpost of Phillips to have a permanent store. “I believe that auction houses cannot apply the same business model to every geographical location,” explains Mr Marks, “and rather than rely on traditional seasons we need to be proactive with clients year round.” Perpetual officially opens on Wednesday, September 4, with a cocktail party and panel discussion. The panel is made of two industry luminaries – Mr Biver and Phillips’ auction chief Aurel Bacs – and myself. To RSVP for the panel discussion, register online with Phillips. The highlights The inaugural offering at Perpetual is diverse, encompassing both vintage and modern watches. Being a personal favourite of Mr Marks, Rolex “Zenith” Daytonas are well represented, but the line-up also includes a selection of choice examples of independent watchm...

9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor S&G; Jul 18, 2019

9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019

Tudor S&G; this, Patek 5172G that, but wouldn’t you rather have something … different? Year after year it’s the same story. News breaks in January and March, and all you hear about are these “hero watches” from brands X, Y, and Z time and time again. Sure, that’s cool, and there’s a reason there is … ContinuedThe post 9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 5, 2019

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead

These are the conversations we all keep having lately. Much like our beloved Sandra Lane, I’m equally sick of the steel Rolex and Patek hype that refuses to die off (at least for now), and every time I hear of the obscene premium that people are still willing to pay for either the Nautilus 5711 … ContinuedThe post Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date Jul 3, 2019

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer

Editor’s note: The longer I spend around watches, the less I find myself in bells and whistles (Patek alarms and Jaquet Droz excepted). In fact, I find myself more and more drawn to simple, pure designs that just work. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a perfect example of this. On the surface … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? Time+Tide
Omega has been steadily touting Apr 21, 2019

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Editor’s note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly … ContinuedThe post What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Luminox Jungle Survival Course With Rob Roy Deployant
Luminox Aug 25, 2018

Luminox Jungle Survival Course With Rob Roy

The Luminox Jungle Survival Course is a programme that helps participants to overcome physical constraints and mental pressure. It is aimed to impart the Navy SEAL mantra of ‘The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday’ to participants and help them understand how each day’s challenges can make one stronger. Held at The Canopi, Bintan Indonesia, it was a gathering of 26 participants from Brunei, Malaysia and Singapore.

WHO TO FOLLOW: Filmmaker, photographer, watch guy – @nicholask_la Time+Tide
Jun 9, 2018

WHO TO FOLLOW: Filmmaker, photographer, watch guy – @nicholask_la

Nicholas Alexander Kalikow is a producer, director, screenwriter and photographer. He loves being on set and working with talented people to make films and take photos. Hi Nicholas, what’s your daily watch and why? Right now it’s a Patek 5167A Aquanaut. I like it because most people don’t know what it is and I can wear … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Filmmaker, photographer, watch guy – @nicholask_la appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Collected_Man Time+Tide
Dec 2, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Collected_Man

Silas Walton (@A_Collected_Man) is the founder of A Collected Man, an online platform based in London, selling rare watches around the world. Silas loves beautiful watches, well-made clothes, and the inside of a Cessna 152 at 10,000 feet. Hi Silas, what’s your daily watch and why? During the working week I wear a vintage Patek … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Collected_Man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Cartier’s otherworldly Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon Time+Tide
Cartier s otherworldly Rotonde de Aug 30, 2017

INTRODUCING: Cartier’s otherworldly Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Cartier is no stranger to the art of fine watchmaking, and in the last few years the French maison has been bringing the haute …err… heat to the world of high horology, with watches bearing the Geneva Seal – like the Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon. In 2014 Cartier first introduced us to the Rotonde De … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Cartier’s otherworldly Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Pursuit Of The Holy Grail Watch: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 5402 A Series Yellow Gold Revolution
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak 5402 Mar 4, 2014

In Pursuit Of The Holy Grail Watch: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 5402 A Series Yellow Gold

There’s a lot of postulation as to why suddenly a whole new generation of watch collectors, myself included, have become so fixated with vintage watches. To me, the charm of an over-half-a-century-old Rolex GMT or a nearly-40-year-old Patek Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A is that when you strap it to your wrist, you realize that, while time […]