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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Yesterday

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is on the rebound after a few quiet years, and the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 mm is a compelling addition to the premium sports watch arena. Featuring an all-new automatic tourbillon calibre and expensively crafted dials — with optional grand feu enamel — the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon embodies the strides GP has taken to reposition itself in the industrial-haute horlogerie segment. Initial thoughts I tend to feel somewhat jaded about tourbillons squeezed into sports watches, but I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful execution of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, from its grand feu flinqué enamel dial to the (surprisingly) solid gold bridges of the all-new cal. GP8410. Moreover, the brand managed to maintain the nearly ideal proportions of the Laureato Fifty while adding a finely finished free-sprung tourbillon to the lower half of the dial. While the 39 mm format is familiar, the cal. GP8410 is one of four new automatic calibres the brand has introduced in roughly the past year, after the workhorse GP4800, the automatic minute repeating cal. GP9530, and the GP9620 with the brand’s emblematic “three gold bridges” architecture. The nearly simultaneous release of these four distinct platforms hints at the investment put into GP since the group’s management buyout in early 2022. Priced at almost exactly US$100,000, both variants of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon are positioned squarely against watches like the Vacheron Consta...

A Night of Watches and Enthusiasm in Salt Lake and Officially Introducing Worn & Wound Recommended Worn & Wound
Accutron Alpina 2 days ago

A Night of Watches and Enthusiasm in Salt Lake and Officially Introducing Worn & Wound Recommended

On August 27, Worn & Wound headed west for an evening of watches, good conversation, and plenty of time spent with fellow enthusiasts. Hosted with Citizen Watch America at Morgan Jewelers’ Center of Brilliance in Murray, Utah, the event brought together members of the local watch community and Morgan Jewelers’ clientele for a night of exploring, learning, and, of course, talking watches. With rare and unique watches from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frédérique Constant on hand, there was plenty to see and plenty of reasons to linger. Attendees were able to get watches out of the case and onto their wrists, compare notes, ask questions, and learn from both the brands and one another. And, as tends to happen when a room is full of watch people, the conversation quickly moved well beyond the watches on display. There were plenty of highlights, including the Citizen Eco-Drive Photon, celebrating 50 years of Eco-Drive, as well as the limited-edition Hand-dyed Indigo Washi Paper Dial. Accutron brought its Spaceview 314, while Bulova showed off the retro-styled Super Seville Precisionist. Frédérique Constant and Alpina rounded out the mix with everything from an in-house worldtimer to the solar-powered Alpiner Extreme. But the watches were only half the fun. Enthusiasts mixed and mingled with Morgan Jewelers’ clientele throughout the evening, sharing collecting stories, swapping wrist shots, and helping one another discover something new. Some left with new kn...

Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum Hodinkee
Frederique Constant 2 days ago

Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum

What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina.  Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer.  The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal.  The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price.  Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References 2 days ago

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References

What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept.  All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...

Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25 - 27, And I Think You Should Go Fratello
2 days ago

Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25 - 27, And I Think You Should Go

There’s a version of the watch calendar that only contains Geneva, and I understand the appeal of that version. It’s the one we see, read, and hear about on the regular. But some of the best days I’ve had around watches haven’t been in a fair hall at all. They’ve been at smaller, community-run events […] Visit Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25–27, And I Think You Should Go to read the full article.

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns 2 days ago

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued

SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity 2 days ago

SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap

Geneva Watch Days (GWD) just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. In addition, the event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. Some 400 watches were debuted at the event — but were they any good? Overall, the event reflected the current state of the industry; demands of buyers were perfectly echoed by the watches released. But as SJX notes during the episode, “just because something looks like a Ferrari doesn’t mean it’s a Ferrari”. Notably, some of the biggest announcements and best watches were launched outside of GWD, but during the same week — the most prominent of all being the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne 3 days ago

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size

A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s.  The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm.  The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...

I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered Fratello
3 days ago

I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered

Not everything can be defined by numbers. A concert in a stadium with 100,000 attendees can be an impressive event, but seeing the same artist in a small, overcrowded club can be a life-changing experience for 100 people. Watches and Wonders is the stadium concert, and Geneva Watch Days (GWD) is the club gig; well, […] Visit I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Unveils New Carrera Chronograph Sport Editions Ahead of Spanish Grand Prix Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Unveils New Carrera Chronograph 4 days ago

TAG Heuer Unveils New Carrera Chronograph Sport Editions Ahead of Spanish Grand Prix

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport, a modern evolution of the brand’s iconic motorsport-inspired Carrera from 1963, debuted in 2020, TAG Heuer’s 160th anniversary year, alongside the decidedly more understated Carrera Chronograph. The differences between the two models has always been clear: the Sport editions wer

F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe 4 days ago

F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity

F.P. Journe and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco have announced the creation of the one-off Chronographe Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco for the monarch’s upcoming charity auction. The Chronographe Fondation evolves the movement architecture of the Chronographe FB and adds the burgundy-and-bone livery that has become a calling card of the brand’s support for the Monaco-based charity. H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and François-Paul Journe. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts The design is undeniably busy with a mix contrasting colours and fonts. Yet taste is almost beside the point, since rare F.P. Journe watches with striking dials are amongst the hottest watches in the world at the moment. It also arrives amid sustained demand for unique watches created for charity. While unlikely to match the expected result of the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” set, it combines several proven ingredients that should supercharge its value. Stylistically, the watch is consistent with F.P. Journe’s three prior creations for the Foundation: the 2018 Chronographe Rattrapante, the Chronomètre Optimum of 2022, and the Chronomètre à Résonance of 2024. The latter hammered for US$2.98 million, setting a lofty precedent. The similar Chronographe FB retailed for CHF90,000 in 2024, but this point of reference is purely academic — uniqueness and charity will determine the result, and the Resonance result suggests both can overwhelm any conventional sense of value. Burgundy...

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression Worn & Wound
Hamilton s Popular Murph Collection 4 days ago

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression

Hamilton is among a small cohort of watchmakers with particularly close ties to film. The brand’s watches have been a part of cinematic history from iconic moments in classic movies like James Bond’s Pulsar in Live and Let Die and Elvis Presley’s Ventura in Blue Hawaii to more recent releases like special edition Ventura models in the Dune franchise or a limited edition Khaki Field made for The Odyssey. In Hamilton’s contribution to cinema, its collaborations have been most significant with Christopher Nolan, the filmmaker behind The Odyssey, Oppenheimer, Tenant, and Interstellar. Among these projects, the pair’s work on the 2014 epic sci-fi film Interstellar has been the most enduring. It resulted in a cult edition of Hamilton’s Khaki Field dubbed the Murph after its crucial role in the plot on the wrist of Murphy “Murph” Cooper, the daughter of Matthew McConaughey’s character Joseph Cooper. The model went on to transcend its part in the film and become a permanent fixture in Hamilton’s catalog. The brand continues to build on this legacy with its latest expression of the Murph featuring a fittingly cosmic dial that echoes back to the model’s origins.The newest edition to the Murph family reprises the more accessible 38mm proportions as opposed to the larger, oversized 42mm build that made up the original edition. Like other models we’ve seen throughout the collection, it also offers the option of a stainless steel bracelet for a sportier look or a...

Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models Fratello
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date 4 days ago

Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models

If you’re looking to express your chic side but don’t want to give up your sportiness, these dive watches might be for you. The two-tone Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, featuring gold-colored elements, comes in three dial colors — black, blue, and green. The black and green versions made it to Fratello HQ. I […] Visit Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models to read the full article.

Rolex Unveils Four Unique Cosmograph Daytona Watches For Charity Auction Fratello
Rolex Unveils Four Unique Cosmograph 4 days ago

Rolex Unveils Four Unique Cosmograph Daytona Watches For Charity Auction

While the watch world was focusing on the events of Geneva Watch Days 2026, Rolex decided to drop a bit of news on us. The brand officially announced that it is preparing four unique Cosmograph Daytona watches for a charity auction in London on September 28th. Each watch takes inspiration from one of the four […] Visit Rolex Unveils Four Unique Cosmograph Daytona Watches For Charity Auction to read the full article.

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Louis Erard 4 days ago

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter

Bulgari had a number of surprises in store for Geneva Watch Days, which helped the brand stand out from a somewhat quiet field. At the top of the list was the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, which shoehorns the steampunk aesthetic developed by Jeff Barnes and Vianney Halter into Bulgari’s minimalist Octo Finissimo platform. The confluence of designs mostly succeeds, whether in sandblasted titanium or 18k rose gold. The latter recalls Vianney Halter’s beloved Antiqua, but the flat and wide Octo case gives this collaboration a distinct personality. Initial thoughts Bulgari is no stranger to collaborations, and neither is Vianney Halter, who is surely one of the most prolific collaborators in the field of independent watchmaking. At Geneva Watch Days alone, three different brands exhibited watches with his name attached to them. Notably, the French watchmaker has collaborated with Massena Lab, Louis Erard, and even Behrens, the upstart from Shenzen. For Bulgari’s part, the brand’s product director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has developed the Octo Finissimo into a platform for experimentation, lending its sleek footprint to renowned architects, painters, and even tattoo artists, often to good effect. The versatility of the Octo Finissimo is due in large part to its singular character — its wide, aggressively tapering bracelet and ultra-slim construction make it recognisable with or without the Bulgari logo or other decorative treatments. The collaborat...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 Fratello
Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 5 days ago

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a coffee and a heated installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. After a busy week with plenty of Geneva Watch Days madness, it’s time to settle down and enjoy a lazy Sunday. The only excitement comes from this battle of sporty three-handers. Both are derived from popular chronographs, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Vs. Breitling Chronomat Automatic B31 40 to read the full article.