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RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? Jul 29, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous?

In the past, owning a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date meant something different to what it does now. It was the President’s watch, worn by those who controlled the destinies of millions around the world, making daily decisions that mattered. Now the perception of the Day-Date is influenced by rappers and Instagram hustlers, offering an ostentatious … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc Heritage Automatic  Time+Tide
Montblanc Heritage Automatic  Normally Jul 28, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc Heritage Automatic 

Normally in these hands-on reviews I leave the sticky question of the price until the end. But this time around I’m putting it front and centre. This Montblanc Heritage Automatic has an Australian RRP of $3410. And for that amount of coin, you get a lot of watch.  The steel case is well-sized - 40mm … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Montblanc Heritage Automatic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 When most watch Jul 28, 2019

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007

When most watch collectors hear the word quartz they think cheap, mass-produced and soulless. If a watch isn’t mechanical, it isn’t worth talking about, thinking about, and definitely not buying, which are sentiments I broadly agree with. As I wrote here, mechanical watches have a combination of nostalgic charm and independent reliability that I love … ContinuedThe post MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market

There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?

Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Jul 26, 2019

Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033

Originally a no-nonsense dive watch made for the frogmen of the Italian navy during the Second World War, Panerai has been moving towards more civilian-friendly sports watches. The evolution is best illustrated by the Luminor Due, which is smaller and thinner, and as far removed from a traditional Panerai as possible while still retaining the signature crown locking mechanism. At the same time, Panerai has also rolled out watches that are oversized like the military originals, but with an increasingly variety of dial colours, like the quartet with blue dials in 2016. Such metallic blue dials are currently fashionable, so it’s no surprise Panerai has continued with the same colour. The recent Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM01033 is essentially an upsized, 44mm  version of the PAM 688 from 2016. I had one on the wrist for a few days – here’s how the test drive went. Compared with the earlier PAM 688, size is not the only difference with the new Luminor PAM 1033. A small but significant design tweak is the colour of the hands: instead of gold hands as as before, the hands now match the case. Though the change is seemingly minor, it gives the watch a different look, one that’s more contemporary, because the hands, though small, are the focal point on the dial. But the beige Super-Luminova on the dial and hands is faux-vintage, which does not quite match the newness of the blue dial. The dial is a “sandwich” construction, a signature feature of Paner...

Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Jul 25, 2019

Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Editor’s pick: If you’re in the market for a massive, 45mm manually winding dress watch with more power than you can shake a mainspring at, we think the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase might just be up your alley …  Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got … ContinuedThe post Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender? Time+Tide
Casio ns Jul 24, 2019

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender?

Here at Time+Tide HQ, the banter is fast, free-flowing and deeply uninteresting for anyone who doesn’t love watches. Sometimes this spitballing makes it beyond our four humble walls, such as when the team built a fantasy $20K watch collection, and this is another one of those occasions. The question posed to the team this time: … ContinuedThe post T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch?  Time+Tide
Doxa dive watch?  One Jul 24, 2019

Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch? 

One of the most random, and awesome watches to emerge from the briny depths of Baselworld was the (very) limited edition Doxa SUB 200 T. On the surface this is a pretty standard vintage reissue, with a big 43mm case in that classic cushion shape, with that classic orange dial, in a dual register layout … ContinuedThe post Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 24, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”

The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase Jul 24, 2019

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune

Editor’s note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on …  The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such … ContinuedThe post A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-105 “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph now Jul 24, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-105 “The Hour Glass”

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass kicked off its 40th anniversary limited editions with the all-platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, now followed by a pair of watches from leading independent watchmakers, De Bethune and Urwerk. The Singapore retailer is getting a three-piece limited edition based on the current UR-105, but one that’s also a throwback to the brand’s early creations. In aged bronze and titanium, The UR-105 “The Hour Glass” similar to the UR-105 CT Bronze unveiled earlier this year, but streamlined and sans the sprung lid over the front – a simplification of the design that’s also an improvement. Appropriate enough for a retailer that’s been selling Urwerk for 15 years, the commemorative edition features elements borrowed from Urwerk models over the years, creating a watch that’s a nostalgic reminder of the brand’s foundational watches from the early 2000s. UR-103 reborn The UR-105 was launched in 2014 as the successor to the UR-103, first launched in 2003. The bestselling Urwerk to date and arguably the brand’s signature watch, the UR-103 was the watch that made Urwerk a champion of avant-garde mechanical watchmaking. A nod to that milestone watch, the commemorative UR-105 features a U-shaped sapphire crystal, just as it was on the UR-103.03. While the very first version of the watch, the UR-103.01, featuring a narrow, curved window for the time, the UR-103.03 of 2005 expanded the view with a far larger cry...

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe Time+Tide
Jul 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe

It’s long been a staple of watch collecting advice and lore - don’t keep your watches in your sock drawer or consumer-grade safe, keep them in a safe deposit box. Well, that old adage is looking a little stretched on the basis of a recent article in The New York Times, which recounts the harrowing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Commissioning Horological Art – A Watch Collector’s Experience SJX Watches
Jul 24, 2019

Commissioning Horological Art – A Watch Collector’s Experience

Lovers of horses, airplanes, yachts and cars can choose from many specialised painters if they want a piece depicting their favoured object for the walls of the home or office. While Salvador Dalí’s surrealist “melting watch” paintings are amongst the 20th century’s best known artworks, a search for current day artists specialising in the figurative depictions of watches generates barely a handful of names, though most of whom show their works on Instagram. This is the story of my first commission, a graphic of the Voutilainen GMT-6. The Voutilainen GMT-6 by Alex Eisenzammer (@watchoniste), commissioned by the author High-tech capture Particularly when wristwatches are the subject of art, I follow the original Latin definition of ars, “skills” or “craft”. Therefore, I regard flawless photography of watches as art, as with the Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”, captured by specialist watch photographer Guy Lucas de Peslouan. But perfect photographic illustrations tread a thin line between art and technology. When the photographer’s skills are not at the highest level and Photoshop is heavy-handedly applied, the results are hardly suited to truly capturing a watch, yet find often a place in press releases from brands. Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”. Image – Artsight/Guy Lucas de Peslouan The art of rendering watches or movements with software is very popular with manufacturers. CGI specialist Blade Render describes its philosophy as desir...

Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter  Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 23, 2019

Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter 

Next up in our rolling cavalcade of ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ stories is Vince. Now, this one is a bit of a funny one, and not just because the watch in question is the critically acclaimed Joker from Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. If you’re not familiar with the Joker, it’s a very clever piece … ContinuedThe post Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 23, 2019

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018

For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of … ContinuedThe post Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time Time+Tide
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time Jul 22, 2019

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time

Editor’s note: This is a throwback to the time we chatted to one of the best-looking blokes in Melbourne about his (then) new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time. As Sam predicted, he didn’t think this would be a watch that would look dated as the years passed, and he was right - the classic proportions, the … ContinuedThe post Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Everything you need, nothing you don’t – the best two-handed watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 22, 2019

Everything you need, nothing you don’t – the best two-handed watches of 2018

There comes a time in the journey of every watch collector when the pursuit of the most complicated watch loses its shine, as you start to wonder if there is real meaning to be found by having a ninth tourbillon in your watch. You stop stressing if your chronograph has a vertical clutch, and wonder … ContinuedThe post Everything you need, nothing you don’t – the best two-handed watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 Editor’s Jul 21, 2019

The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5

Editor’s note: I’ve got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link - and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It’s such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else ’90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of … ContinuedThe post The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Time+Tide
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Editor’s note Jul 21, 2019

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five - it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …  The story … ContinuedThe post Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Heuer et al or Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like Time+Tide
Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like

The buying and selling of second-hand watches has traditionally been an unglamorous, possibly even seedy, affair. The traditional image of that side of the industry has been one of tight margins, hard sales talk and the ever-present threat of fakes. Well, in the last few years it’s a part of the business that’s been undergoing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

No downsides to the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 20, 2019

No downsides to the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down

Editor’s note: The other day I caught up with someone who’d recently picked up an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, and holding it in my hand - by golly gosh, those German guys at ALS know their way around a watch. This piece might not be their most complicated or most hyped, but it’s … ContinuedThe post No downsides to the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it Time+Tide
Hublot s Sang Bleu II Jul 19, 2019

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it

When it comes to creative collaborations, few brands have the level of panache or skill that Hublot does. They have a few on the burner at the moment: their Orlinski watches and the one we’re looking at today – the Sang Bleu.  To be a little more specific, we’re looking at the Hublot Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.