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Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne

The 1994 watch that relaunched A. Lange & Söhne. Golden-ratio dial and outsize date.
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Zeitwerk A. Lange & Söhne

The 2009 mechanical jumping-digital wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne. Hours and minutes on three discs.
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Datograph A. Lange & Söhne

The 1999 flyback chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne with the in-house Cal. L951.1 movement.
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Saxonia A. Lange & Söhne

One of the four founding references of the 1994 A. Lange & Söhne relaunch. Time-only Saxon classic.
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Bulova Apr 6, 2023

The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons

When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

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Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold Time+Tide
Patek Philippe wows Apr 4, 2023

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold

Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Tonda PF Collection Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Apr 3, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Tonda PF Collection

One of our favorite releases from Watches & Wonders 2022 last year was the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a watch that presented a unique hidden 2nd hour hand that could be adjusted to a different time zone with a press of a button in the lug. For 2023, Parmigiani returns to this concept in a slightly different manner, with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Instead of offering a second 12 hour hand, this latest Tonda brings us a second, independently adjustable minute hand, offering the functionality we’d typically see in a rotating bezel, only, you know, without the bezel. As fun as bezels are to turn, pressing buttons might even be more fun, and this Parmigiani is about as entertaining as they come from a functional point of view. A bit less so in the visual department, but this is still a Tonda through and through.  The Minute Rattrapante presents not one, but two buttons in both lugs along the 9 o’clock side of the case. These are used to adjust the second minute hand in 5 minute, and 1 minute increments. If you’ve just plugged your parking meter for 24 minutes, and you need to keep tabs on it, you’d press the button on the bottom four times to place the hand 20 minutes out, and the button at the top 4 times to bring it the full 24 minutes out. That will remain parked at that spot, while the regular minute hand catches up to it, eventually surpassing it to let you know how far you’ve gone over. Exactly the same as rotating the triangle of your ...

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I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Apr 3, 2023

I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph celebrates the Offshore’s 30th anniversary This black ceramic model pays homage to the Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” (ref. 25770SN) released in 1999 in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger The new 43mm model repeats the high-contrast aesthetic of yellow on black The background It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54

In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts  The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...

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Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGA469 I decided Mar 27, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap

Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders.  My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...

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The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget Time+Tide
Chopard IMPERIALE delivers Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget

This new addition to the Chopard IMPERIALE collection pays tribute to an Egyptian legend. The lotus flower signifies the sun, and has inspired the day/night indicator dial. The calibre 96.30-L is an in-house marvel, featuring a healthy power reserve and micro-rotor. It’s hard to invalidate diamond-set watches when artisans like Chopard bring in new levels … ContinuedThe post The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour Time+Tide
TAG Heuer updates Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour

New racing-inspired colourways for the 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Black and blue sunburst dials are offset with bright orange and red accents The watches are powered by the in-house column wheel chronograph calibre Heuer 02  The lineage of the Carrera is a rich one – beginning in 1963, named after the fearsome Carrera Panamericana … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) Time+Tide
Daniel Roth Mar 26, 2023

Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH)

How about it? After years of rumours and months of teasing, we were finally presented with the model that will spearhead Daniel Roth’s revival, aptly chosen to be a Tourbillon Souscription. We’ve seen the Daniel Roth name pop up in numerous auctions (here and here, for example), building up the hype, which I may or … ContinuedThe post Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium Mar 21, 2023

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique

One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...

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[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

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Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2023

Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2

Editor’s note: As soon as Invicta is mentioned in the presence of watch enthusiasts, jests and jeers are inevitable. The brand has long strayed from its centuries-old heritage and has since evolved into a mall and QVC/TV-peddled watch brand largely known for affordable homage-driven designs. But Kieran, a recent addition to the Time+Tide team, has done something … ContinuedThe post Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

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Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

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Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Breaks Mar 17, 2023

Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph

Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...

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H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé Worn & Wound
H. Moser Finally Introduces Mar 16, 2023

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé

You know what’s satisfying? When a watch brand does the thing that just about everyone wants them to do, after a period of time where it seemed like they definitely were not going to do that very thing. Listening to customers and delivering what they want is a hallmark of the microbrand scene, and, at least to some extent, independent watchmaking as a whole. But it needs to be balanced – you can’t just turn out every request that comes in, lest a brand lose their identity in the process. So what H. Moser has done here with a pair of new watches in the Pioneer collection feels quite special, like they’ve heard the voice of the community and reacted in a particularly Moser way.  When I reviewed the Moser Pioneer “Mega Cool” I commented that the immediate impression of the case, in terms of its size, was not a positive one. The 43mm Pioneer case in stainless steel is heavy and kind of clunky, with proportions that seem designed to make it recognizable from across a room rather than contour to the wrist. In principle, I don’t have a problem with that approach – there’s nothing wrong with a watch being brash and bold just for the sake of it. But even as I gradually got used to the size of the Pioneer during my time with it, the case’s oversized aesthetic was just never to my taste. Kind of a shame, because I absolutely love the dial, and the idea of an elevated, luxury sports watch in this style holds a lot of appeal for me.  This week, Moser has gone a lo...

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Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

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Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2023

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux

Watches with compasses are a rare breed among tool watches, mainly because - unlike chronographs, dual time zone functions, and calendars - their usefulness in everyday circumstances is rather limited. Generally, in the era of GPS and Google Maps, one rarely has a pressing need to identify True North on a hand-held (or wrist-worn) device. However, like other “niche” watch functions that serve mainly as aesthetic curiosities in quiet business or domestic environments, compasses - which can be as low-tech as a movable bezel with orientation markers or as high-tech as a digital readout that takes control of the watch’s display at the push of a button - have a special appeal to active, outdoorsy enthusiasts. Avid hikers, mountain climbers, spelunkers, and others devoted to adventure in environments where one is often bereft of modern conveniences like reliable wifi, tend to gravitate toward a more rugged, utilitarian style of watch, often with built-in tools that go beyond timekeeping. This is why you’ll often find compass-equipped watches with other useful indicators for factors like temperature, atmospheric pressure, and altitude. The relative rarity of compass watches could also be traced, at least in part, to a handful of truisms. One is that as an additional indicator on a watch, it’s basically superfluous: any analog watch with an hour hand, hour markers, and reliable accuracy can be used for orientation, at least while the sun is out. Simply lay the wa...

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Big Watches, Small Wrists Part III: Can I pull off a pilot’s watch? Time+Tide
Mar 10, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part III: Can I pull off a pilot’s watch?

When I was young, just like many other kids, I dreamed of being a fighter pilot. Perhaps it was the infectiously catchy Kenny Loggins song that I imagined playing in the cockpit whilst dog-fighting with my friends at high speed, or maybe it was my dream of having a legitimately cool call-sign, “Elektra” perhaps. Whatever … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part III: Can I pull off a pilot’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Full Send Personified: A Day of Extreme Freeride Skiing, Extreme Terrain and ‘Extreme’ Watches with Alpina Worn & Wound
Alpina Three two one … Mar 9, 2023

Full Send Personified: A Day of Extreme Freeride Skiing, Extreme Terrain and ‘Extreme’ Watches with Alpina

“Three, two, one … GO!” Leif Mumma stabs the hard-packed snow with his ski poles and launches himself out of the start gate. He immediately takes a different, more central line down the steep Ozone face. By the looks of his sheer speed and direct approach, he’s charging hard, taking the mountain head-on. Judging his quick decision making and go-big-or-go-home style, you wouldn’t think that this is Mumma’s first rodeo, but it is. He’s just a rookie on the Freeride World Tour. With a handful of speed, Mumma dramatically cuts in and out, just holding onto his ski’s edges down what seems to be one of thinner areas on the mountain face. He makes one technical jump off a rock face, lands, then cuts right. Then another. As Mumma dances around several spruce trees, the oohs and aahs arise from the spectators along the opposite ridge. At that moment, we’re all witnessing poetry in motion. All Downhill From Here Suddenly, an audible crack breaks the excitement. The mountain face starts to erupt on Mumma’s left as he completes a 20 foot jump. Whatever snow that was settled along the lower center portion of the face has now released, rushing down like a raging waterfall. Mumma is just out of the avalanche’s grip as he attempts his last trick. Out of nowhere Mumma’s ski gets caught by a sharkie (an exposed rock in a sea of snow that resembles a shark’s dorsal fin). He’s projected off of the face, his arms and poles flapping like a wingless bird, and his body...

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Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection

Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54.  The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...

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Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT

Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication. A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection. The SPB383 Initial thoughts Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio. The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette. The SPB381 Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial. That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price. At U...

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The retro-futurism of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Mar 4, 2023

The retro-futurism of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic

Rado has always been a unique company in the annals of Swiss watchmaking – a collision of heritage and high tech is how one could describe their ethos. Now part of the massive Swatch Group, the brand was launched in 1957, and soon began producing distinctive models that were unlike most everything else out there. … ContinuedThe post The retro-futurism of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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