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Chanel and F.P. Journe Just Bought 95% of Ebel for $66.5 Million, and the Industry Is Paying Attention

The cult Swiss watchmaker leaves Movado Group after decades, heading into new hands with serious horological credentials behind them.

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Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Oct 9, 2026

Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand

Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory.  Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong.  Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...

Chanel & F.P.Journe acquire 95% stake in Ebel in US$66.5M deal Time+Tide
F.P. Journe will look Oct 9, 2026

Chanel & F.P.Journe acquire 95% stake in Ebel in US$66.5M deal

The House of Brands is looking to restore Gallet and Universal Genéve to their former glory; Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield relaunched Urban Jürgensen; and now Chanel and F.P. Journe will look to revitalise another cult classic watchmaker: Ebel.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Pierre Jacques (@pierre_jacques1) Earlier today, … Continued

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chanel Acquire 95% Oct 8, 2026

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...

Review: the Sinn 544, a Tool Watch for Minimalists Worn & Wound
Chanel Aug 14, 2026

Review: the Sinn 544, a Tool Watch for Minimalists

Simple and sporty. That’s it. That’s the review. Well, sure, I can elaborate. Sinn likes to surprise us on occasion, and in the most Sinn way possible. Not by releasing something high-tech or with a ton of bells and whistles, though they occasionally do that, but rather by releasing something we didn’t realize we wanted as badly as we do. The U50 from 2020 is a great example of this. A simple concept, Sinn took their aggressive, modern dive watch design and shrunk it down to an easy-to-wear 41mm. It was a huge hit. Earlier this year, Sinn released the 544, a watch I don’t think any Sinn-head (not sure if that’s an expression) saw coming. Truly stripped down, the 544 is one of the cleanest expressions of Sinn’s no-nonsense, purpose-driven design philosophies. There is an expression I love that is attributed to Coco Chanel that goes like this: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” It’s a great ethos not just for attire, but all things design. With the 544, Sinn has nothing left to take off, and that’s part of its charm. With that said, there are actually two versions of the watch (technically more if you include strap options): the straightforward 544 and the 544 RS, which replaces the white seconds hand with a fluorescent red/orange (they say red, I see orange). So, basically, the fully reduced model, and the model that kept one thing on. Well, I lacked the restraint to request the pure 544 as that hand looked sexy, so ...

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game SJX Watches
Chanel J12 Coco Game Jul 29, 2026

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game

This year Chanel celebrated games of all sorts, from chess to cards and even video games with the J12 Coco Game — a quartet of Chanel’s best selling ceramic dive-ish watch featuring pixel art renditions of the Mademoiselle herself. This haute joaillerie variant is the maximalist-chic final boss of the sub-collection, set with 5.88 carats of diamonds, and equipped with the same bulletproof movement and hardy ceramic construction that makes the J12 so practical — though without the useful bezel or date. Initial thoughts Every year I look forward to Chanel’s Watches & Wonders launches — more-so than I do many “real” watchmakers — and every year the brand graces us with a one-two punch of remarkable objects and whimsical watches, often related by a common theme. This year’s theme was games, and Chanel outdid itself with a multi-million-dollar, unique (and already sold) chess set as the halo piece. Downrange there are allusions to playing cards, dominos and Scrabble, and a quartet of video game-inspired J12s. The other three models in the lineup, from left to right: ref. H11063, H11091, and H11062. Image – Chanel Pixel art developed as a natural consequence of past technological limitations, but it remains popular, particularly among independent game developers. And I suspect these watches will appeal just as much to a generation — my generation — that grew up with indie games like Minecraft, Terraria, and Undertale, rather than retro pixel art games lik...

Chanel’s Chessboard is a Modern Métiers d’Art Masterpiece SJX Watches
Cartier made such items Jun 23, 2026

Chanel’s Chessboard is a Modern Métiers d’Art Masterpiece

Chanel christened its watch collection for the year “Coco Game”, a theme that informs the pixellated video game motifs found on some watches and also the flagship creation that is the endgame as such things go. The Chessboard is self descriptive, but it is much more than an 8×8 board with 32 chess pieces. A one-off creation that is already sold, the Chessboard is impressive by the numbers alone: 1.5 kg of gold, 110 carats of diamonds, and a retail price of over US$4 million. But where is the watch you might ask? There are two: each of the queens is actually a pendant watch with a tiny dial on its base, and the set is delivered with a single chain for the winner to wear a pendant watch. The queen takes the form of Coco Chanel dressed in the brand’s signature tweed suit Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of Chanel’s impossibly extravagant objet d’art, which in past years have ranged from a musical automaton clock to a planetarium-clock. This year’s one-off creation trumps them all in scale, complexity, decoration, and of course price. In tangible terms, the Chessboard is clearly a trophy for the home or office, or a game board for a wealthy chess fan. Ridiculously lavish board games and toys have a long history — jewellers like Faberge and Cartier made such items in times past. In fact, some of Faberge’s fabled Imperial Easter Eggs contained surprises that were actually tiny toys. The Chessboard, however, is distinctively 21st century in both material...

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Hands-On With The New Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 - Is It Worthy Of The Famous Automotive Moniker? Fratello
Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 May 10, 2026

Hands-On With The New Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 - Is It Worthy Of The Famous Automotive Moniker?

Superleggera is Italian for “super light.” But to a petrolhead, the word means more. The term refers to a custom automobile body-construction method developed by Felice Bianchi Anderloni at the Italian coachbuilder Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera. Patented in 1936, the Superleggera system uses a framework of thin steel tubes shaped to the contours of the car […] Visit Hands-On With The New Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 — Is It Worthy Of The Famous Automotive Moniker? to read the full article.

Introducing - The Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm and 33mm, in Matte Blue Ceramic Monochrome
Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - The Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm and 33mm, in Matte Blue Ceramic

Twenty-six years ago, Chanel introduced the J12, a luxury sports watch crafted from sleek, black high-tech ceramic. Designed by artistic director Jacques Helleu, the collection was named after the J-class 12-metre racing yachts competing in the America’s Cup. An overnight success, the J12 appealed to men and women alike with its chic, unisex aesthetic. Chanel’s […]

First Look - The New Tiffany Timer, A Vibrant “Tiffany Blue” Chronograph Monochrome
Chanel who now serves as Jan 19, 2026

First Look - The New Tiffany Timer, A Vibrant “Tiffany Blue” Chronograph

Since LVMH’s acquisition in 2021, Tiffany has boosted its watch product team and horology efforts. At the forefront of this effort is Nicolas Beau, former Global Head of Horlogerie at Chanel, who now serves as Tiffany’s VP of Horlogerie. Over the past few years, Tiffany has typically infused jewellery-led creativity into its watch collections. On […]

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture SJX Watches
Chanel Takes Stake Jan 12, 2026

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture

Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...