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Results for Charles-Édouard Guillaume

223 articles found · page 1 of 8

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II SJX Watches
Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring Lastly Aug 8, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II

Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 Fratello
Casio n Gerald Charles Maestro Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.

Interview: Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Since Edouard Dec 4, 2019

Interview: Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.

Since Edouard Meylan took the top job at H Moser & Cie. in 2013, after his family acquired the struggling brand a year earlier, he righted the ship and the brand is now forging ahead with technical ambition and a surprising degree of commercial nous. Wielding a Wharton MBA, Mr Meylan devised creative, and at times, controversial marketing campaigns – from the “Frankenstein” watch to one covered in grass – that have allowed Moser to punch above its weight as a maker of just 1,500 watches a year. Yet Moser has retained its technical know-how that has allowed it to refine its signature perpetual calendar, amongst other things. That’s aided by the fact that besides Moser, the Meylan family interests also control its sister company Precision Engineering, via a 90% ownership of the holding company Moser Watch Holding. The component specialist produces hairsprings, as well as other key movement components like escape wheels, pallet forks, and balance wheels, supplying Moser as well as a host of the independent brands. The ingenious Moser perpetual calendar movement During his recent visit to Singapore to inaugurate the newly inked partnership with retailer Cortina Watch, we sat down with Mr Meylan to discuss a spectrum of topics, from his mischief-making promotional activities to the firm’s manufacturing, as well as the soon-to-be-launched chronograph. The interview was edited for clarity and length. When you took over the company seven years ago, it was struggling ...

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup  Time+Tide
H. Moser s Edouard Meylan Sep 13, 2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup 

Two figures who I respect tremendously in their respective fields are H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan and Blamo! host (and man who can rock a soft yellow hat like nobody else) Jeremy Kirkland. So when the two got together on the latest edition of the podcast, I knew it was going to pop.  … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A breathtaking diver - the Panerai Submersible Chronograph Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00982 Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible Chronograph Guillaume Néry Nov 28, 2018

INTRODUCING: A breathtaking diver - the Panerai Submersible Chronograph Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00982

With the end of year celebrations well and truly underway, SIHH 2019 will soon be rolling around the corner. And I, for one, cannot wait. Especially as the fair’s pre-releases are already whetting appetites with enticing novelties like this brand-new version of Panerai’s Submersible Chronograph – otherwise known as the PAM00982 for all you reference … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A breathtaking diver – the Panerai Submersible Chronograph Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00982 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HOW TO: Make your watch brand go viral, a marketing masterclass by Moser Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie CEO Edouard Sep 21, 2016

HOW TO: Make your watch brand go viral, a marketing masterclass by Moser

It’s both reassuring and alarming to discover that H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan is a human version of his brand’s watches: he is stylish, sophisticated, smart (more on that later) and in possession of a sense of humour that is never too far from the surface. He’s also refreshingly direct and far from complacent about the … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Make your watch brand go viral, a marketing masterclass by Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: The Inconvenient Truth About the World’s First Waterproof Watch by Stan Czubernat Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex s claim still Nov 26, 2025

Book Review: The Inconvenient Truth About the World’s First Waterproof Watch by Stan Czubernat

Watchmaking is full of gratuitous claims and overinflated marketing. One of the oldest is Rolex’s claim, still on their website today, that the Oyster Perpetual was the world’s first waterproof watch in 1926. These claims were the basis for Rolex’s reputation for reliability and ruggedness. While Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual was highly water resistant, it was not the first company to create a successful water-resistant design. That title belongs to Charles Depollier, who was fulfilling orders for the U.S. Army as early as 1919.

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition Hodinkee
Ming 11h ago

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition

What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials.  It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials Time+Tide
Gerald Charles 15h ago

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials

The Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces unique hand-hammered Maillechort dials to the brand’s signature asymmetrical design. It is strictly limited to 25 pieces per colourway in Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The 38mm steel watch remains impressively thin at 7.99mm and is powered by the ultra-thin micro-rotor GCA 1000 movement. When it comes … Continued

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aug 20, 2026

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well.  The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed.  Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...

Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu Hodinkee
Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu

What We Know If you've been on "Watch Instagram" since Watches & Wonders, you've likely seen today's big launch. From the minds of Wei Koh and industry insider Guillaume Tetu, the new brand Legare (from the Latin meaning "to bequeath") has been shared around during an extended soft launch to potential clients and some press, starting back during the big watch fair. However, their first watch, the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, didn't officially launch until today, so if you've been looking for coverage and not finding it, that's why. The Chapter 1 AGP Inverted comes in two distinct executions and immediately caught my attention because of the reference that inspired it (and from which it takes its name). Because of that, it's a watch expressly made for deep-cut watch enthusiasts who know their history and appreciate independent watchmaking. In 1932, a 17-year-old student named Albert-Gustave Piguet undertook a watchmaking challenge that only five others at the Vallée de Joux School of Watchmaking would do from 1932 to 1934: he made a pocket watch regulated by two large split bimetallic balance wheels, averaged by a differential. These six examples are as coveted as they are influential to the watchmaking space. One inspired Philippe Dufour's "Duality." Even more influential was Piguet himself, who later worked at Lemania and on the caliber 2310. Now, his double-balance watch has been revived again by Legare. The watch closely resembles the movement of the Piguet pocket watch, wi...

Introducing - Gerald Charles Releases a Trio of Gem Set Masterlink Models with Stone Dials Monochrome
Gerald Charles Jul 20, 2026

Introducing - Gerald Charles Releases a Trio of Gem Set Masterlink Models with Stone Dials

Stone dials have long held a special place in fine watchmaking. No two are ever alike, each preserving colours, textures and patterns formed over millions of years. For Gerald Charles, working with stone means embracing a challenge. The Masterlink is anything but round, and its asymmetrical silhouette leaves almost no margin for error. See how […]

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles Apr 24, 2026

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo

With the dust finally settling on Watches & Wonders 2026, the conversation shifts from the halls of the Palexpo to the cobblestone streets of SoHo. On May 6, Hodinkee is partnering with Gerald Charles for an exclusive community event at the Watches of Switzerland SoHo showroom. This evening serves as an intimate destination for collectors to go hands-on with the latest novelties from Geneva, offering a rare opportunity to experience the brand's evolution in a localized setting. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. The highlight of the evening is a thoughtful discussion featuring Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Hodinkee's own Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys. The two will explore the brand's unique heritage as the final creative chapter of Gérald Genta's career, as well as its strategic vision for the future. It is a deep dive into the "Maestro" DNA, punctuated by cocktails and the chance to be some of the first in the U.S. to handle the latest pieces. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. Registration:To attend this intimate community event, please RSVP to events@hodinkee.com with your first and last name. If you would like to bring a guest, kindly include their name and email address. A confirmation email will follow to finalize your RSVP. Details:Date & Time:Wednesday, May 6, 20266:00 pm – 8:00 pm ET Location:Watches of Switzerland SoHo60 Greene St, New York, NY 10012

Watches And Wonders 2026 Roundup - Gerald Charles Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 22, 2026

Watches And Wonders 2026 Roundup - Gerald Charles

Watches and Wonders 2026 may officially be closed, but we’re highlighting some of the key brands we visited. Gerald Charles is known for its distinctively styled baroque wristwatches, with a case shape originally designed by Gérald Genta. This year, the brand added to its lineup with a trio of attractive releases. I had the opportunity […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2026 Roundup - Gerald Charles to read the full article.

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis White Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis White

Gerald Charles has always been a large supporter of tennis. The different surfaces and colors within the game have been featured on the brand’s watches. Today, the theme continues with an ode to Wimbledon, the most famous tournament of all. While the new Maestro GC Sport Tennis White isn’t an official collaboration with the All […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis White to read the full article.

Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 13, 2026

Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice

Okay, that subtitle is half right. The Masterlink design, with its typical “smile” at 6 o’clock, is not new. But instead of trying to fit a traditional round QP movement into the case, Gerald Charles chose to build a shaped one. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar is so handsome that, apart from a closed-dial […] Visit Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice to read the full article.

First Look - The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Bulgari  in 2000 Genta himself Mar 31, 2026

First Look - The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

Gerald Charles is a name that traces back to the legendary Gérald Genta, widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designers. While his eponymous brand, Gerald Genta, was sold to Bulgari in 2000, Genta himself soon embarked on a new chapter, founding Gérald Charles as a more personal expression of his design philosophy. In 2011, […]