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Time+Tide
More than just a case metal switch-up, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is a paradigm shift for the storied Roth name.The post Exciting news: Daniel Roth’s new Extra Plat isn’t a limited edition and now has an exhibition caseback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
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Hodinkee
For Laurent Ferrier, finishing is a big part of what sets a hand-built, in-house movement apart from mass-produced calibers.
Worn & Wound
Despite frequently being (in my opinion, falsely) labeled as a boring, neutral color, beige has been making a splash across the watch world recently. When paired with the right auxiliary colors, beige can appear adventurous, rugged, and even classy, in the right circumstances. Perhaps I’m biased, as my 1983 Volvo 240 DL sports a handsome Rose Beige exterior, but it really is one of the most versatile colors, especially when paired with the right contrasting shades. One of beige’s best applications is in vintage-inspired timepieces, and Hanhart has jumped on the retro field watch trend with their latest, the 417 TI Desert Pilot Limited Edition, available in 39 and 42mm case sizes. Hanhart has long been known for their military-style sport watches, and across the German brand’s 144-year history, they’ve had no shortage of classically-styled pilot watch variants. The 417 TI Desert Pilot combines sharp legibility thanks to black details on the beige dial, with robust functionality and case construction. Both sizes sport a Grade 5 titanium case with a matte finish, giving the watch a rugged, utilitarian look; this is furthered by the crown at 3 o’clock, flanked by two pushers that control the dual chronographs on the dial, positioned at 3 and 9 respectively. The hand-wound, Sellita-based AMT 5100 caliber movement is responsible for the flyback column-wheel chronograph functionality, and is visible through an exhibition caseback, which feels unusual but not unwelcome...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to keep track of all the watch trends that come and go over a calendar year, and while it’s not been as smoking-hot-popular as skin divers and GMTs, the worldtimer complication has been enjoying some time in the sun recently. Joining the herd is the Farer World Timer 2026 Collection, which beefs up an already-impressive (and early to the trend) lineup with three new colorways. In fact, the Farer World Timer was first launched in 2019, well before recent additions that have piqued the watch world’s interest, and it’s that confident backlog that has allowed Farer to introduce three new pieces with a level of design refinement that other relative newcomers may lack. Before we dive into the new colorways, let’s get the basics down: each Farer World Timer sports a 39mm 316L stainless steel case (and varying finishes depending on the model) with an impressive 11mm of thickness, and a democratic 45mm lug-to-lug measurement. One crown, inset with a Farer “A”-embossed bronze cap, sits at the 3 o’clock position, while the other, wearing a World Timer marque, rests at 10 and operates the outer rotating bezel. The crowns, domed sapphire crystal, and exhibition caseback ensure a decently robust 100 meters of water resistance. Inside, a Sellita SW331-2 Elabore movement should guarantee reliability, accuracy, serviceability, and a 56-hour power reserve. A bespoke Farer rotor is color-matched to the central 24-hour disc on the dial. Speaking of that disc, it...
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Worn & Wound
Joe Ottati is the owner of Ottati Car Detailing, a founder of VALT Auto Club, and a part-time Auction Specialist for Cars & Bids. He is also a co-host of the VALT podcast, which can be found on YouTube. Soft-spoken but always ready for a chat, many Bay Area car enthusiasts have likely had a conversation with Joe Ottati from the other side of a folding table, beneath a big VALT Auto Club tent. As one of the club’s founders, Ottati’s dedication to growing the car scene in the Bay Area and keeping it as inclusive and positive as possible can easily be seen in the way he interacts with everyone that comes through the tent: with kindness and small hints of the vast wealth of car knowledge within. But cars aren’t Ottati’s only hobby; he extends that interest in all things mechanical to his wrist, too. Like most of us watch nerds, Ottati’s first timepiece came in the form of a Casio. As an 8th grade graduation gift, he received a green G-SHOCK, a watch that he still owns. “It still keeps accurate time on the same battery, fourteen years later,” he says. We are currency outside his shop in Concord, where he details cars as his main job. Inside, a smörgåsbord of European beauties lie in wait, but he steers the conversation back to watches, first. “After graduating high school, I was gifted an Autodromo Stradale, which was my first mechanical watch,” he explains, “I wore it literally every day for years.” The exhibition caseback displaying the Miyota moveme...
Worn & Wound
While not my style, I can see the appeal of a skeleton-style watch–it’s admittedly engrossing to watch the internals of your timepiece tick away, and an exhibition caseback can only show so much when it’s plastered to your wrist. So, I am not the target audience for watches like the new Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, but if you are, I’ll do my best to give you all the juicy details. Founded in Zurich in 1975, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix is known for stylistically brash and boundary-pushing watches; even their tamer models tend to feature bright colors or adventurous materials, and they have quite a few creative skeleton pieces in their catalogue, particularly in their Aikon line. The new Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, in collaboration with Geneva-based Label Noir, pushes that ethos ever-forward. Measuring in at a large-and-loud 45mm in diameter and 12mm in height, the black DLC-plated stainless steel case bears dual-segments at every other hour, framing the sapphire skeleton dial. A screw-down crown ensures 100 meters of water resistance, and two provided straps shake up the aesthetic profile of the watch: the gray leather strap gives it a much more subdued look, while the turquoise rubber alternative lends it a much louder persona. Translucent black varnish on the sapphire dial gives the watch an almost smoky look at the edges, and creates a highlight point of clarity in the middle of the dial, where the turquoise-plated hands meet. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Even with the year coming to an end, we are still seeing a slow trickle of new watch releases ranging from a new MoonSwatch to a Breguet showstopper celebrating the maison's 250th anniversary. Here are the notable new watch releases from this past week as well as the new updates to the Tudor Ranger and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (hey, we can be a little flexible with the "week" rule). As brands squeeze in final announcements before the calendar flips, it's a reminder that the watch world never really rests. And if you want to see our favorite watches of the year, make sure to check out the Teddy Top 40 Watches of 2025 which just got a big update. [toc-section heading="TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Carrera"] TAG Heuer continues its collaborative relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara and his fashion brand, fragment design, with the release of a new glassbox Carrera this week. The watch takes design cues from fragment’s signature style, meaning monochromatic in nature, with minimal details to place emphasis on the broad strokes for contrast. The black-on-black dial is framed by a white internal bezel structure, which is domed under the glassbox crystal. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position, with the first and 11th of the month using the fragment lightning-bolt logo in lieu of the numeral. This is fitted within the excellent 39mm steel Carrera case, and utilizes TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Thi...
Worn & Wound
Timex is continuing its experiment with higher-end horology with its latest release, the Timex Atelier Marine M1a, which the brand describes as a spiritual successor to the Giorgio Galli series and the first watch in the new Timex Atelier line. The Galli series garnered attention for being “luxury Timex,” with minimalist design, higher-grade cases - like the titanium Giorgio Galli S2Ti - and, biggest of all, that prestigious “Swiss-made” label. Timex says the Marine M1a is the “next chapter” in the brand’s history as it continues to build watches in Switzerland with higher-end materials and movements than typical Timex watches. In the case of the Marine M1a, that means a 41mm skeletonized stainless-steel case with an iron-plating coated midcase, a brushed-steel bracelet, a ceramic bezel, Superlominva-filled indices, and an enamel dial. The watch is powered by a Catena SA100 automatic movement finished with Geneva stripes and perlage that you can get an easy look at through the watch’s exhibition caseback. It’s a bit more conservative in design than the retro-minimalism of the Galli watches, and, in the words of Timex’s chief creative director, Giorgio Galli himself, was “not designed to impress at a glance,” but to “be discovered, slowly, over time.” There are many details to discover over time. A signed crown, silver-applied indices, a movement rotor engraved with “Timex Atelier.” But the watch isn’t just aesthetic-oriented - with a...
Worn & Wound
From Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco to Breitling clocks in Bentley GTs, there’s simply no denying how inextricably linked cars and wristwatches are. The mechanical artistry exhibited in both of their productions demonstrates how creativity and engineering can produce incredible pieces of technology with a hint of style and flair. Autodromo––a watch brand inspired by the history and allure of the automotive industry––is set to release a limited-edition variant of their Monoposto timepiece in collaboration with Mobil 1 to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary of their synthetic motor oil. Limited to 100 pieces for the stainless-steel variant and 50 pieces for the gold tone variant, this model is the first re-issue of the original three-hand Monoposto produced by Autodromo in 2012. Let’s start off with the Mobile 1 Edition’s specs. Both steel and gold tone cases have a rather large 43mm diameter, employing the design principles utilized in “the oversized dashboard gauges of 1950s ‘monopostos’ or single seater racing cars,” according to Autodromo. The watch’s wire lugs support 20mm handmade Italian buffalo leather straps fitted with stainless roller buckles. Powering the piece is the dependable Miyota 9039, an automatic 24-jewel movement with hacking and hand winding, beating at a solid 4 Hz with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement can be admired through the exhibition caseback featuring Mobil 1 branding and other informatio...
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Worn & Wound
Of the brands making their Watches & Wonders debut in 2024, perhaps none will be more closely watched by Worn & Wound readers than NOMOS, long a favorite in the affordable independent space. After several years away from the international trade show scene following the demise of Baselworld, Nomos is back this year making their first trip to the Palexpo, and featuring a fun spin on a classic with new limited edition takes on the Tangente 38 Date. With eye-catching color palettes–and equally eye-catching German names like “Flamingopink,” “Lemonbiscuit,” and “Sportbunt”–the new Tangente 38 Date models combine fan favorite design with an array of new colors the brand hopes will give wearers a chance to better express themselves through their watch. With a staggering 31 different colors, there are plenty of options for the watch enthusiast who wants something a little different from what you might typically see in the watch world. But what might be most eye-catching is the price: Unlike many of the limited edition watches being unveiled this week, the new NOMOS Tangente 38 Dates are genuinely affordable, and actually cheaper than the standard model. The regular run Tangente 38 Date can be found on the NOMOS website for $2,780. The limited edition watches will sell for $2,310, a move NOMOS sees as an investment in brand accessibility. The LE Tangente 38 Date is still chronometer tested, still has a sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, an...
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...
Worn & Wound
You know when you run across something so rad that you realize “wow, I never knew I wanted that, but I totally do!” What if I told you there’s a watch that’s been made in collaboration with an iconic ejection seat manufacturer, and the watch itself has been tested to the same extremes as said ejection seats: vibration, extreme endurance, live ejection, altitude, and aircraft carrier deck testing? Well, Bremont and Martin-Baker brought life to a limited edition watch that expands on Bremont’s popular MB line - the MBIII Stealth is born. Limited to only 50 pieces, the MBIII Stealth is an almost totally blacked-out watch that would curl the toes of any secret agent. The case itself is 43mm of jet black DLC coated stainless steel with a knurled aluminum barrel, that pulls from the design elements of Martin-Baker ejection seats, and matches with the knurling on the duel crowns: one crown for setting and winding your watch, and the other is for the inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The MBIII Stealth has GMT and date functionality, made possible through Bremont’s chronometer certified BE-93-2AV automatic movement. The movement itself is anti-shock with a faraday ring that makes it both shock resistant and anti-magnetic, and it can all be seen through a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback that adds to the jet-setting super spy motif of the watch. In fact, the only area in which any color can be found is underneath the sapphire crystal on the dial, whose Arabic numerals...
Worn & Wound
For nearly seven years, French watch brand Baltic has been producing at a luxury level that far exceeds its retail price point. We’re always excited to see them fill out their collection with new references, and today they add three new additions to the MR01, Bicompax, and HMS lines. Think of these new releases as sisters, if you will. Each reference combines black and, in a first for Baltic, gold PVD, for an elegant finish, but each has its own distinct personality. First there is the MR01. Best described as “small but mighty,” this 36mm reference sits comfortably on either a man’s or woman’s wrist with a 9mm case height, while also being tonally perfect to wear as your dress watch. A subsidiary seconds subdial is found at 7:00, while the rest of the dial is pared-down and handsome, featuring subtle details like Breguet numerals and leaf hands. The MR01 is powered by a Hangzhou CAL5000a automatic movement, wound via a micro rotor, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. Next up is the black-and-gold addition to the Bicompax line-up. Inspired by watches of the 1940’s, the Bicompax 02 case comes in at a comfortable 38mm. Given the time period of its reference point, it’s no wonder that much of this design was inspired by the Art Deco period. The design features a brushed sector housing the hour-markers, along with two subdials sporting a stylish azurage finish. The remaining dial is polished, introducing a subtle contrast to the overall look. Addi...
Worn & Wound
As the wave of vintage-inspired watches stretches into its second decade, it’s easy to forget who was at the forefront. Among them was Oris and its Divers Sixty-Five, a collection that has grown to encompass myriad configurations. Customers are spoiled for choice with steel, bronze, and two tone watches in various sizes and with dials ranging from demure to outright fun. Up until 2019 (not counting the Brashear limited edition a year earlier), the Divers Sixty-Five had always been just that: a diver. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph has always been quietly competent, but today Oris updates the model. Spoiler: there’s a lot to like. First and foremost, Oris has massaged the case to 40mm, a more palatable size for the mainstream with finer proportions. Thickness is down from 17mm(!) to a more manageable 15.4mm. Gone also are the overtly vintage accents on the bezel edge and throughout the dial. You won’t find any fauxtina lume or gilt text here. Instead, what we have is a truly monochromatic dial and bezel layout. One gets the impression that this is a more serious, if somewhat austere, watch with its foot firmly planted in the modern era. What hasn’t changed is what’s inside: behind the sapphire exhibition caseback beats Oris’ caliber 771 (Sellita 510 base) providing 48-hours of power with automatic and manual winding. You have central chronograph seconds, continuously running seconds at nine o-clock, and a thirty minute counter at three. Water resistance...
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Time+Tide
To solid caseback, or exhibition caseback, that is the question. Or at least it was the question Fergus raised when they wrote the latest Making the Case column, arguing for solid casebacks to make a comeback. We thought the solid versus exhibition caseback dilemma would be very divisive, and after taking the query to Instagram it is … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
More often than not, when we engage with watches it is typically in a retail shop, watch fair or watch meetup. But the exhibition caseback of any watch brand is a visit to their manufacture. Visiting a manufacture is truly a window into the brand, and not just in the behind-the-scenes sense of seeing the … ContinuedThe post Zach’s visit to the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen reveals the importance of ‘IWC-manufactured’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/03/Chopard_AlpineEagle41XPS_5.webp)
Worn & Wound
Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome. The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...
Worn & Wound
Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...
Worn & Wound
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
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Monochrome
Patek Philippe is set to captivate horology enthusiasts with its annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition, opening on April 18, 2026, at the brand’s historical Salons on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. Running through May 9, this event showcases 65 exceptional new creations – 23 dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 32 wristwatches – blending centuries-old […]
Monochrome
It’s official: Patek Philippe is bringing its Grand Exhibition of Watch Art to Italy next year. Milan has been chosen to host the seventh edition of the Grand Exhibition and will open its doors to the public, free of charge, from 2 to 18 October 2026. Marking its seventh Grand Exhibition to date, Patek offers […]
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has just revealed details about the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026, which is set to take place in October 2026. The event marks the seventh edition of the brand’s large-scale public exhibition series, and its return to Europe following the most recent instalments in Tokyo, Singapore, and New York. The biggest yet With a display area covering 2,540 square metres, the exhibition will be the largest Watch Art event organised by Patek Philippe to date. As with previous events in the series, the exhibit will feature immersive replicas of the brand’s Salon on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône, the manufacture at Plan-les-Ouates, and the Patek Philippe Museum, all constructed under the dome of the Palazzo delle Scintille, now known as CityOval. For a taste of what’s in store, the Patek Philipe website still hosts an immersive experience of the 2022 edition in Tokyo. The exhibition will showcase the brand’s entire current collection, alongside a dedicated Rare Handcrafts selection comprising dome clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, with around 500 pieces in total on display. Artisans will also be on hand to demonstrate techniques like miniature enamel painting, cloisonné enamel, hand engraving, wood marquetry, guilloché, and gem-setting. As is customary for Watch Art exhibitions, the Milan event will see the launch of several limited-edition watches across different segments of the collection. The 2023 Tokyo exhibition, for instance, included a Rare Ha...
Fratello
Within the opulence of Harrods’ luxury London department store is a joyous journey through Vacheron Constantin’s eclectic history. Even by the northeastern entrance is a suspended forced-perspective Maltese Cross with “270” emblazoned upon it. This represents 270 years of Vacheron Constantin’s continuous operation, the longest of any watch brand. Winding through the halls of Harrods […] Visit The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London to read the full article.
SJX Watches
As part of a world tour to mark Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing 270th anniversary, The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence lands in Singapore from October 25 to 26, 2025. After stops in Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Abu Dhabi, the event will take place at Parkview Square and will be open to the public. The exhibition showcases the brand’s legacy through thematic chapters, featuring both historic timepieces and artifacts as well as an exploration of métiers d’art techniques like guilloché, which are a specialty of the brand. There will also be an immersive astronomical installation that invites guests to reflect on their own passage through time. A highlight of the exhibition is a special tribute to The Berkley Grand Complication, which remains the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, and the only Chinese perpetual calendar. The watch itself will not be present – the owner is an American – but a special display will provide a look inside the masterpiece. The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence takes place over the weekend of October 25-26. Admission is free but attendees are encouraged to register online in advance to reserve their preferred time slot. Parkview Square600 North Bridge Road, 3rd FloorSingapore 188778
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