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Revolution
Revolution
Aurelie Picaud & Jean-Marc Wiederrecht Fabergé
Monochrome
Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel
Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...
SJX Watches
Bi-Retrograde’s Back: Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide
Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago. Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design - a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design - skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition. Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication ...
Video
Watches & Wonders: CEO Jean-Christophe Babin On The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37 Collection & More
Chasing records for over a decade with the Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari takes the next step in the collection's saga, as it sizes down from 40mm to 37mm across. Not only does this mean re-engineering virtually every aspect...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...
Monochrome
Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer
Singer Reimagined, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design fame and Marco Borraccino, a watch designer, raced into the watch world with the Track 1, an incredible 1970s-inspired chronograph with a high-end movement designed by watch wizard Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Capitalising on the profound ties between petrol heads and cog heads, Singer Reimagined is […]
Revolution
1989: Harry Winston Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, the World’s First QP with Bi-Retrograde Indication
The story of how two friends and master watchmakers, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis, gave the world its first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 Emirates Edition
Singer Reimagined, a sister company of Singer Vehicle Design, the acclaimed Californian outfit that modifies 964-series Porsche 911s, made its debut in 2017 with the Track 1 – a watch with a retro case but an ingenious, modern movement. The brand has since introduced several limited editions for key cities, including Geneva and Hong Kong. Now, to coincide with Dubai Watch Week, it is launching the Track 1 Emirates Edition, a smartly coloured iteration with contrasting dial textures for more intuitive reading. Measuring 43mm wide and 15mm high, the watch features a ceramic-coated aluminium case, created by subjecting aluminium to an electro-plasma oxidation process that creates a thin layer of ceramic on its surface. This gives the case a hard, scratch-resistant surface while keeping it lightweight, although the coating can be damaged by impact. In the same vein, the bezel, pushers, crown and case back are in titanium, but coated with zirconium nitride (ZrN), a hard ceramic that is pale gold in colour. The dial features black, concentric hour and minutes discs on the periphery with an olive-green centre and a gilt tachymeter flange, while all the hands are orange. The watch is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard versions. It is equipped with one of the most revolutionary chronograph movements of recent times – the AgenGraphe, which was developed by Agenhor, a respected Geneva complications specialist led by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Boasting five patents for...
Debate! An In-house Movement is Essential for a 21st-Century Watchmaking House
A most compelling debate between Theodor Prenzel (deputy head R&D;, Nomos Glashütte) and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (co-founder of movements specialist AGENHOR) on the necessity of “in-house” movements.
Video
Five Years of the Geneva Watch Days with Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO for Bulgari.
Singer Reimagined: The Three Amigos
Revolution gets the scoop on Singer Vehicle Design’s Track1 Chronograph from Rob Dickinson, Marco Borraccino and master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.
Revolution
WORLD PREMIERE: Singer Track1 Chronograph
Singer introduces the neo-vintage Track1 chronograph, powered by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht’s Agengraphe.
Deployant
Photo Essay: Up close to the Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph
Live, high resolution photographs of the new Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph. With hands-on annotations as presented to us by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.
Revolution
Launching the Spacecraft: An Exploration of the New RJ-Romain Jerome Timepiece
It’s been so difficult to keep quiet about this watch. I met the RJ-Romain Jerome Spacecraft last summer at Agenhor during my week under the tutelege of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his talented cadre of watchmakers. Needless to say I was completely enamored with it. However, I was compelled to wait five months to be able […]
Revolution
The Last Word
REVOLUTION PUTS ERIC GIROUD (OWNER AND DESIGNER, THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS) AND JEAN-MARC WIEDERRECHT (FOUNDER AND WATCHMAKER, AGENHOR) UNDER THE LOUPE FOR SOME QUALITY Q&A; Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht are no strangers to each other, having collaborated on projects such as the gem-clad Harry Winston Opus 9 and MB&F;’s Horological Machines. Together or apart, the […]
Video
Watch Industry Legend Jean-Claude Biver | House Of Craft
Revolution
Roger Dubuis CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué on the Hommage Collection at SIHH 2014 (Video)
The Hommage Collection is the showcase this year for Roger Dubuis, and CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroué, tells us about the key pieces from this collection, as well as the strength of the brand in the unique category of the Double Tourbillon. Interviewed by Wei Koh. Do also have a look at our video with Roger Dubuis […]
Fratello
Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber
Jaeger-LeCoultre had a pretty impressive Watches and Wonders, with several high-horology releases and a new range of integrated-bracelet Master Control models. The team would surely have been forgiven for taking a few days off in the lovely Vallée de Joux to catch its breath. Instead, JLC flew straight to Milan, Italy, for the Salone del […] Visit Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson
Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...
Fratello
Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode
In the eyes of Benoît Mintiens, a Ressence watch should tell the time in the most user-friendly way. That’s why he came up with discs that are more intuitive to read than more conventional hands. Someone who’s also intrigued by simplicity and functionality is industrial designer Marc Newson. Known for his work in the automotive, […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Favre Leuba x Jean-François Mojon Chief Tourbillon
Favre Leuba releases the Chief Tourbillon, its first ever since the brand's founding in 1737 in a collaboration with Jean-François Mojon.
Video
IN-DEPTH - The New Louis Vuitton Tambour, Fully Explained With Jean Arnault
Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin talks about the importance of healthy competition, and coming out on top
A brand CEO that says they hope their record gets beaten? Now you don't hear that every day.The post Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin talks about the importance of healthy competition, and coming out on top appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking back at last year’s Bulova x Marc Anthony 2023 Collection
In September 2022 Latin musical artist Marc Anthony and American watch brand Bulova came together to form a major partnership that will span over four years with a series of watch and jewellery lines. Each collection is to feature a core line, branching off with limited and special editions, each with its own intersection between … ContinuedThe post Looking back at last year’s Bulova x Marc Anthony 2023 Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Norqain Wild One has Jean-Claude Biver’s fingerprints all over it
When it was first announced that Jean-Claude Biver was joining Norqain as an advisor to the board, many wondered whether the position was merely ceremonial or if he’d make a genuine impact. During my conversation with Norqain CEO Ben Küffer on the matter back in June, he insisted that JCB was not simply lending his … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One has Jean-Claude Biver’s fingerprints all over it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel
Designed a decade ago by Marc Newson, the industrial designer most famous for his Lockheed Lounge chair and the Apple Watch, the sleek hourglass is exceedingly simple yet remarkably complex to fabricate. It’s made of a single piece of glass – blown by hand in Switzerland – and filled with millions of tiny metal spheres known as nanoballs. De Bethune has applied its signature heat treatment to the object, resulting in the De Bethune x HG Timepiece Blue Hourglass, a limited edition pair of large and small timekeepers filled with heat-blued steel nanoballs. Initial thoughts More sculpture than timekeeper, the hourglass is a beautiful object that is incredibly simple yet impressive in its artisanal nature. The glass is blown by hand yet perfectly in form and proportions. The De Bethune touch adds another level of beauty to the object. Instead of the plated nanoballs found in the standard version of the hourglass, the Blue Hourglass contains blue nanoballs heat treated by Denis Flageollet himself. However, the addition of Mr Flageollet’s talents to the prowess of Swiss glassblowers comes at a high price. The smaller, 10-minute Blue Hourglass costs CHF25,000, more than double the price of the standard hourglass with plated nanoballs. That’s affordable relative to everything else than De Bethune makes, but it’s a steep premium for the hourglass. Tinkling timekeepers The Blue Hourglass is available in the two standard sizes: the larger, 60-minute timer and a smaller 10...
Time+Tide
3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future
Cometh the crisis, cometh the man. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, has grown in stature yet again over the last six months as Bulgari has taken a militant stance against COVID-19. Whether it’s delivering Bulgari hand sanitiser to hospitals to assist in their fight against this deadly virus, or delivering a fair with 16 of … ContinuedThe post 3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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