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Live from GWD26: Hands-on with the Amazing Rexhep Rexhepi Chrono Flyback
Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.
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Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.
SJX Watches
Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...
Hodinkee
It's summer in NYC. The Knicks are up 2-1 in the Finals. The pace has slowed a touch with the warmer weather, but the cold brew is still coursing through our veins, and society is sorting itself into two camps: people who stand in line for Dot Cake and those who do not. You can draw your own conclusions there. In other words, the city is immaculate right now. At Hodinkee HQ, that can only mean one thing: it's time for our new summer issue. Transatlantic by Design: How Tiffany & Co.'s watchmaking has always moved between New York and Switzerland, by Malaika Crawford. Volume 16 arrives with two covers. One celebrates Tiffany & Co.'s new Timer while looking back through the brand's remarkable watchmaking archives. The other marks 100 years of the Rolex Oyster with one of our most ambitious Reference Points to date, a deep dive into the Oyster Perpetual and the enduring influence of Rolex's most foundational watch. Written by former Hodinkee editor and Bring A Loupe alumnus, Rich Fordon. Reference Points: Rolex Oyster Perpetual by Rich Fordon. 100 years of the Oyster case proves a blueprint for everything Rolex does. Elsewhere, Nora Taylor spends time with Knicks guard Josh Hart, discussing basketball, collecting, and the watches that have accompanied him throughout his career. Independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi contributes a personal essay on craft, responsibility, and the act of building something intended to outlast its maker. Then Jason Heaton revisits the legend o...
Hodinkee
The watch world hasn't seen an auction season like this in quite some time. Well, ever, frankly. Phillips set multiple records (43 by their count, though many are quite obscure), including a new record for the highest single sale of $96,328,083, besting their result from just last fall. If you add in their online auction, they passed $100 million for the first time ever. Sotheby's smashed the record for the most expensive A. Lange & Söhne ever (for a pocket watch, we might add)—a record that only stood for a few weeks, set during the house's Hong Kong sale. But it wasn't so much the overall numbers that were shocking as the fact of which watches were selling for what prices. So, what the heck is going on? Well, we were watching; some of us from afar, others (Andy Hoffman) in the auction rooms. Instead of focusing solely on broad strokes, let's look at five specific results and why they matter for the market. A Bog-Standard Stainless Steel Akrivia AK-06 is Now a $3.8 Million Watch, 30 Times Its Original Retail Rexhep Rexhepi is the hottest watchmaker of the new, young generation, and it's not particularly close. That's not a dig on his contemporaries, but rather a reflection of the realities of the market, where people are clamoring (to an unbelievable degree) to buy a watch from a man who has made very few watches in the first place, and the few that have come to market reach astronomical prices. There aren't many data points to go off of. Only twelve Akrivia or Rexhep ...
SJX Watches
For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction. He also discusses the RRCHF’s in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Hodinkee
Ask people about the most exciting thing they saw at Watches and Wonders, and I'm willing to bet that a few people might just mention something that wasn't even at the show, but rather tucked away in Old Town—the new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. And you know what? That's understandable. I mean, the new RRCHF has been the talk of the town since its introduction earlier this month, marking the first release from Rexhepi and his brand in literal years. Years in which the brand has continued to climb in legend, desirability, and hype, thanks to the growing recognition of Rexhepi's previous Akrivia line of watches, as well as icons like the Chronomètre Contemporain I and II. If you came here looking for a lengthy read about the new chronograph, I'll steer you instead to Ben's original article covering the release, which has plenty of words that encapsulate everything around the watch and the history leading up to it. And not to spoil anything, but Mark's working on a deeper, hands-on look at the new watch, hitting Hodinkee this summer. So, during our visit last week to Rexhepi's Atelier Akrivia, we decided to do something fun and expand on Ben's initial write-up, which compares the RRCHF to two iconic, high-end, hand-wound chronographs that seem most similar to the RRCHF in the vein of a classically designed chronograph. So we brought along a Patek Philippe 5170P, as well as an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph, just so I could shoot them alongside Rexhepi's chronogra...
Time+Tide
This has been an incredible week for independent watchmaking. Ressence has announced its first-ever in-house movement, M.A.D. is presenting two new editions for those who want to own a piece of MB&F; engineering without the price tag, and Rexhep Rexhepi has unveiled a new project. Moments like this don’t come around often, and when they … ContinuedThe post New releases from Ressence, M.A.D. Editions, Rexhep Rexhepi and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Raymond Weil turns 50 this year, and the head of the Geneva-based, independent family-owned brand tells us how it started and how it's going. But first, Ben drops in to talk chronographs and the new Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF.
Hodinkee
In-house, integrated, beautifully proportioned, and priced right, the industry's wunderkind is here to make (another) statement.
Monochrome
Since the AK-01 was presented in 2012 under the Akrivia brand, Rexhep Rexhepi has gained incredible recognition, evidenced by the prices of his watches at auction. Yet, it has been a while since we have seen a new model from the young independent watchmaker, the latest ones being the Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC II in 2022 […]
Revolution
Deployant
Rexhep Rexhepi continues with his journey as a top tier independent with the release of this new Chrono Flyback. Here is what we know about the RRCHF.
SJX Watches
Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement. With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register. Initial thoughts After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking. The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements. The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chrono...
Revolution
Revolution
Revolution
Hodinkee
The second of a five-piece limited series that started with Rexhep Rexhepi, the watch is far more than just a GMT – it's a work of art.
Fratello
Lists - don’t you love ‘em? Well, I do. Unlike Lex, our resident Grinch, I love a good list. That should come as no surprise, though, as I am Fratello’s in-house list fanatic. It was interesting to read that Lex likes to look forward to what’s to come rather than looking back at what has […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
There are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, and then there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. For GaryG the Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain falls into the third category, so much so that it became a running joke for a friend to pantomime a “smelling salts” motion as a signal for Gary to pull up his sleeve and jolt him back to attention. Here he explains why he bought this new classic watch.
SJX Watches
On the evening of August 29, 2024 in Geneva we’ll have Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia on a panel moderated by our founder SJX, and hosted by Phillips at its downtown Geneva office. The two eminent watchmakers will be discussing the topic: “What is Soul in Independent Watchmaking?” The panel is taking place outside Geneva Watch Days so we can’t promise any new watch launches, but there will be interesting and engaging conversation, and a few drinks. If you’re interested in attending, drop us a line via our website contact form.
Quill & Pad
The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX held over the weekend by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, totaled 39,667,167, just a tad over its high estimate, and set five world records.
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
Hodinkee
It's possible the Chronomètre Contemporain II is the best watch being made today, and now Rexhepi has expanded the lineup.
Worn & Wound
Ming has had a deep presence at this year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week, not just with their latest and greatest on display, but with Ming himself offering insights to his process, including creation of the ultra-lightweight LW.01, in the form of a speech given at the beginning of the show. He even found time to challenge Rexhep Rexhepi to a game of foosball in the halls of the show. At the booth, a selection of new Ming releases drew a consistent crowd throughout the week of the show, and we took the opportunity to get a hands-on look at a few of our favorites, including one of the best releases around the fair in Dubai: the 37.08 Sand. If there’s one thing that Ming has excelled at in recent years it is the delicate interplay between forms and textures, and how they can be harnessed to create a unique dial and case experience. Their skill here was on full display this year in Dubai with two watches in particular, the 37.08 Sand, and the 37.04 Rose Gold. In addition, Ming released a 29.01 Dubai worldtimer for Arabic speaking collectors. A trend we saw realized across many of the exhibiting brands at the fair. Both the 37.08 Sand and 37.04 Rose Gold feature extraordinary dial work, though in very different ways. Beginning with the 37.08 Sand, which Ming says is the first in a series of watches that will showcase deep-relief textured dials, the initial offering does not disappoint in this department. The dial depicts a somewhat ambiguous wave pattern that could be int...
SJX Watches
There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...
SJX Watches
Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...
Hodinkee
Inside the new collaboration between Akrivia and Louis Vuitton (and what comes next...).
Rexhep Rexhepi, renowned as a formidable watchmaker and horological prodigy, solidified his reputation through a remarkable journey. His exceptional career took a significant turn when he joined one of contemporary watchmaking giants, Francois-Paul Journe. In 2012, at the young age of 25, Rexhepi embarked on his horological odyssey by establishing Akrivia, a watchmaking studio bearing […]
SJX Watches
In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...
Deployant
We bring you breaking news of a new watch born out of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia.
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