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Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
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The skull is one of art history’s most referenced objects thanks to its powerful ability to instantly remind us that we are only flesh and bone. Fiona Krüger, specializing in skulls, partnered with L’Epée 1839 to produce Vanitas, a skull-shaped clock based on her Skull Collection with an unexpected function: it yawns as its movement tires.
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Lebanon has an extensive history with vines being cultivated there for some 6,000 years. Vines were brought to the region by the Phoenicians, who then took the wines around the Mediterranean. All of which has led to the amazing wines of Chateau Musar in the modern age as Ken Gargett reports.
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We finally arrive at the 2022 GPHG Jewellery category, which is often the most varied in opinion as there is such wide room for taste. Seen among the competing watches are a couple familiar faces, a few bold choices, and even a wild card that might have gotten lost while carrying a pouch full of diamonds through a particle accelerator. What does our peanut gallery think? It's divided.
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Hublot was one of the first to introduce watches with rainbow settings, and, together with Takashi Murakami, the brand explores yet another facet of this universe by putting the artist's signature smiling flower design front and center on the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow.
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Ian has a fairly narrow frame of reference when it comes to buying watches for himself: his taste runs to independents, in-house movements, and superlative hand-finishing. So why on earth did he buy a Corum Bubble, which is from a big (for him) brand and outfitted with an ETA 2892 movement with an industrial finish? And it's huge!
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Fans of Japanese whisky will be all too aware that the better offerings are extremely hard to find. Once a curiosity, then mainstream, and more recently highly awarded and much sought after (okay, now subject to a feeding frenzy), the stuff is as rare as an honest politician. So grab whatever you can whenever you can!
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What a pleasure to find a majority of real diver's watches in the GPHG shortlist this year. While they can be worn without any worries behind the desk, as they most likely will be in 99.99 percent of cases, they are also up for some serious diving. Here is what our peanut gallery had to say about the nominees.
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What Makes Me Tick loves watches made by small independent artisans because they fully embody the visions of their makers, who have put blood, sweat, and tears into creating them. Among the independent brands, De Bethune is most probably his favorite. In fact, no "probably" about it: De Bethune is his favorite. Here's how his customized DB28 Maxichrono came to be.
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Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!
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“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.
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The Montblanc Summit 3 smartwatch is similar to a Rolls-Royce's electronics in that it doesn't dazzle with complex menus and an overload of information, alarms, and notifications. It’s more like the perfect secretary who knows precisely when to disturb the boss and when not to. Martin Green is quite enamored.
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Is the chronograph still everybody's favorite complication? The brands most certainly think so as a vast number are introduced each year. An the six that are nominated in this category represent the cream of the crop, though our peanut gallery thinks only two are real contenders.
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While watching television, Ian Skellern spied a Kudoke Real Skeleton in a feature film called 'Last Looks' starring Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson. That watch is now being auctioned in New York in December. Here's its backstory.
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Now we are onto the big bad boys of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is where we put the most mechanically incredible watches head to head, and the name of the game is horological creativity. Aesthetics help but a wild, avant-garde watch can easily win this category because there is no limit. So how does our panel choose?
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Chantilly may be known for its famous whipped cream, lace, and horse racing, but since 2014 this town in northern France, an hour’s drive from Paris, has played host to the most beautiful cars on the planet at Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille, a car lover’s garden party uniting both classic and contemporary cars.
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Sabine Zwettler dives back through time to have a closer look at five vintage-style diver’s watches. With their robustness and air of discovery and adventure, diver’s watches leave a striking impression on the wrist – whether on dry land or in the water.
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Fellows auction house is still something of a hidden gem, so if you look hard you might find incredible bargains. The author herself has gotten very lucky here, once even managing to find a timepiece that she had long been searching for at an unpredictably good price. See what you can find in the next timed auction!
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Ferdinand Berthoud was known for passing on his knowledge, taking in his first apprentice shortly after he opened his first workshop, which resulted in H.M.8, a fantastically accurate ship's chronometer. The new FB 2RSM.2-1 is the modern spiritual successor to the H.M.8 and it originated with a modern apprentice.
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Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.
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GaryG represented Quill & Pad at the 2022 DWW Horology Forum in New York (and he took a few favorite watches with him). Here's his take on the weekend event with lots of photos.
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Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?
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Watch collector Perry Heim has waited long enough, maybe we all have, for the perfect Bulgari Octo Finissimo. And it's almost here, bar one small missing element. Perry explains what the Octo Finissimo still needs to scratch his itch.
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The GPHG Iconic category honors models with real staying power, requiring them to have had a lasting influence as a collection for more than 20 years. Our panel doesn't like the category, but it sure does have a unanimous winner.
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Time to Race, Louis Moinet’s latest edition to the Memoris chronograph line, made quite an impression on Martin Green. For this colorful Memoris, Louis Moinet drove down memory lane right into car history with a very cool concept.
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The Watches TV has a popular series called “Walkthrough” in which Marc André Deschoux and his camera team film as they walk around an artisan’s workshop. In this episode, Deschoux and team visit the downtown Geneva atelier of independent sensation Akrivia with founder Rexhep Rexhepi.
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Now that we’ve reached the Men’s Complication category, we start hitting Joshua Munchow's favorite part of the GPHG: mechanical awesomeness. See what our panel has to say about the watches in this category and which watch we think is the best unisex timepiece of 2022!
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The Charles Joguet winery is in Chinon, France where it sits adjacent to the Vienne River, a tributary of the Loire. What makes Chinon different from the rest of the Loire Valley is its focus on red wines from the Cabernet Franc grape. And Ken Gargett has a lot to say about this!
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The Men’s is one of the more contentious GPHG categories every year because it is filled with amazing watches that may or may not have much in common but do have distinctive aesthetics. Since that is very subjective, our panel is reminded that the category is essentially asking which watch is the most versatile, wearable, and appeals to the broadest demographic. And, yet, our peanut gallery is divided practically down the middle!
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For this Virtuoso V, Bovet opted for a salmon-colored lacquered dial without a guilloche motif. What could have been a vast, pink-colored wasteland becomes a beautiful oasis as this charismatic hue works so beautifully with the other elements of this interesting convertible timepiece.
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