Fratello
Cartier is a watch maison synonymous with iconic case shapes. Among them are the Santos, the Tonneau, and the Pasha. The Tank, however, must be the brand’s most famous creation. Within the Tank family, we have so many standalone icons, including the Tank Normale, the Tank Americaine, and the Tank Française. The Cartier Tank is […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Must De Cartier Tank to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Citizen Here is a brilliant vintage Citizen. The stainless steel case is unpolished with nice sharp edges on the bezel and killer lugs. The clean white dial has two vertical silver stripes that give it a really sporty look. Simple applied steel baton markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. Overall a classic looking Japanese sport/dress watch. The watch comes on a steel Jubilee-style bracelet that fits the look, but is not original to the watch. The crown is signed as it should be. No movement picture but it runs well per the seller. View auction here Texas Instruments Starburst Now this one is interesting! A vintage Texas Instruments Starburst digital watch that has an analog style display. The square case is gold plated, as is the integrated bracelet. The watch looks almost new-old-stock, and is in stellar condition with no wear. The dial has a gold radial starburst pattern, with a round digital display in the middle. It has LCD hands that show the time, as well as a day/date function. Really a trippy and unique vintage LCD watch that I haven’t seen before. The watch comes with the original box as well as the original instruction booklet. Works well per the seller, ...
WatchAdvice
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Worn & Wound
Maen has announced a new version of their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch, the 37 Ultra-Thin. This reference fills out the Manhattan collection, which also consists of watches with automatic movements in both 40mm and 37mm sizes, as well as ultra-thin (manually wound) watches in 39mm and, as of today, the smaller 37mm footprint. Maen has taken the somewhat unusual approach with this release of introducing a brand new dial texture along with it, as opposed to a more standard dial execution. I reviewed the first iteration of Maen’s ultra-thin last year and was impressed with the thin wearing experience and the solid built quality of the case and bracelet. That’s really the key in ultra-thin watches, I think. If you feel like the watch is going to snap in half and break at the bend of a wrist, it really saps the charm out of the whole experience. This is why the impossibly, wafer thin executions of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo are so impressive, and also confounding. They appear to defy the laws of physics, but on the wrist, they still feel solid, leaving the impression they can be worn confidently doing normal day-to-day things, for the most part. The Manhattan is not on the same level horologically speaking as the Octo, of course, but they operate under similar principles and have to defy similar concerns. I haven’t tested out the new 37mm version of Maen’s ultra-thin Manhattan, but I have spent time with every other iteration of the Manhattan, ...
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest Reverso Tribute was made to travel the world, but will it stand firm here in Australia? Let’s find out! What We Love: Brilliantly and intricately designed Smooth and tactile operation Additional quality-of-life features What We Don’t: The crown feels slightly small Larger than most Jaeger-LeCoultre Reversos No hacking seconds on the movement Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Whether it be in a sales environment, information gathering for an upcoming review, or just cool and interesting watches from friends, new and old, I’ve had the privilege of handling a great many timepieces. Sure, it shouldn’t really come as a surprise that a guy from Watch Advice spends time with his company’s namesake, but often there are limits as to what I am able to see. I believe that no timepiece from any brand (yes, including the one you’re thinking about) is out of reach. Despite this, some are significantly harder to chase than others. This can be for a number of reasons: perhaps there is a waitlist, or maybe the brand just doesn’t make that many watches annually, or the model is close to/has been discontinued. In time, however, I believe the time will inevitably come where it becomes available – and when it does, the fruits of your labour and patience will be all the sweeter. That’s the exact relationship I have with Jaeger-LeCoultre. Founded in 1833, the Swiss watchmaker has spent t...
Monochrome
First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]
Monochrome
Bovet, the historic Swiss brand founded in 1822, was revived by Pascal Raffy in 2001 as a temple of haute horlogerie. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with high-end complications decorated with lavish artistic flourishes. One of the more ‘straightforward’ collections in Bovet’s universe is the 19Thirty, a time-only model with a unique and […]
Worn & Wound
It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement. In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist. On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...
SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...
Time+Tide
This dressy Canadian GMT watch incorporates a complication that's rarely combined with pre-1950s aesthetics.The post Héron brings a welcome complication to the vintage-inspried dress watch with their Mirabel GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I hereby declare 2025 as the first year of the Age of Elegance. Please don’t confuse the era upon us with the opulence and glamour of the Edwardian age; the Age of Elegance focuses on understated modernity, functional style, and technical charm. Sophistication 2.0 takes design cues from the rich watchmaking tradition and elevates them […] Visit Imagining The Dress Watch Of The Future: What Could It Look Like? to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, Longines celebrated the 70th anniversary of its Conquest collection. The brand surprised us with three very attractive re-editions called the Conquest Heritage, each with a central power reserve indicator. But alongside those were two time-only models, one with a black dial and rose gold hardware and another with a silver dial and yellow […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion Vintage Longines Here we have a beautiful vintage Longines Jamboree. This is a great casual sporty dress watch, well suited for a day on the town or with a suit at a nice dinner. The 35mm steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges, and perfectly preserved original etching on the caseback. Nice slim lugs too. The silver dial looks clean, with slim applied steel markers and nice steel sword hands. No date window to mess with the soothing symmetry. The crown is original and signed with the Longines logo as it should be. The Longines caliber 230 manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Fantastic watch from a well respected manufacture that you don’t see too often. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf Next up is a classic and highly sought-after vintage diver, a second generation Zodiac Sea Wolf. This version has the gray acrylic bezel insert, which is in excellent condition, with only one small crack near the 20 minute mark. The steel case (around 35mm if memory serves) is unpolished with nice edges. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac crosshair logo as it should be. The original black dial is superb, with nice lume filled triangle markers at 12, 6 and ...
Monochrome
A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module. Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...
Revolution
SJX Watches
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
SJX Watches
As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...
Teddy Baldassarre
How does a vintage-watch lover end up loving the green-dialed Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? Before I answer that, let's get a little philosophical. The deeper you get into this watch hobby, the more you start to understand what a “you watch" is. You build a collection, no matter how big or small, that either jibes with your style, your wrist size, or your general vibe. For example, I tend to gravitate towards old things or things tied to some sort of meaningful historical context. I also tend to like things that everyone else doesn’t. This tracks almost identically with my music taste (a lot of Beatles, Beach Boys, and Velvet Underground mixed with an intense love for ‘90s and 2000s indie rock). This is why the two-tone Rolex Datejust holds a special place in my heart, along with vintage Submariners, classic gold dress watches, and basically anything in the 36mm size arena. Finding a niche like this, however, does not mean that you don’t daydream of cosplaying as someone else — someone who could effortlessly pull off a 46mm diver, or an IWC Big Pilot, or even an Urwerk. It’s like those moments when a Gracie Abrams song appears in your music shuffle and you hesitate to change the song but you’re also afraid to maybe admit, “This is actually good?” Now, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M has been around since 1993 (or, if you want a full history of the Seamaster, you can read it here), and the contemporary iteration was initially released in 2018. This update mad...
Fratello
We’re all more than familiar with the Speedmasters, Submariners, and Royal Oaks of this world. We’re even familiar with the Ingenieurs, Reversos, and Andy Warhols. But many watches in top brands’ catalogs are painfully overlooked. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re taking a look at a handful of them. You might not hear about these […] Visit Fratello Talks: Top Brands’ Overlooked Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else. Cartier Tank Louis Case The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...
Worn & Wound
It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick. Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...
WatchAdvice
I took the latest Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds for a spin to see if it really lives up to the hype. Is it truly as versatile and elegant as it looks? Here’s everything you need to know! What We Love Fits perfectly, even on my smaller 16cm wrist size! This is a very versatile watch that can suit a variety of occasions and outfits. With its dual time functionality, it is also an ideal travel timepiece. The flip mechanism of the Reverso never gets old, it is just fun to see! What We Don’t The manual wound movement might not be for everyone in today’s automatic world. A 30m water resistance isn’t ideal if you want to use the watch as daily. Price point can be a little high, especially for newcomers to the Reverso family! Overall Rating: 8.6/ 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watchmaking icon that was born in 1931, created to meet the demands of British polo players who wanted a watch that could withstand the rigours of the sport. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ingenious design of a reversible case protected the delicate watch during matches, with the dial being turned over to “hide” from impact. The Reverso blended functionality with Art Deco elegance of the 1930s, leading to a timeless design. Over the decades, the Reverso has gone from being a practical sports watch to a symbol of sophistication, elegance and innovation in the world of horology. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ...
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