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Dress Watches · Page 4

Introducing: The Longines Master Collection Refreshed For 2026 Hodinkee
Jun 11, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Master Collection Refreshed For 2026

What We Know When Longines launched the Master Collection in 2005, it established the line as the brand's flagship dress watch offering—a position the line has held for two decades. Today, the Saint-Imier-based brand is announcing a comprehensive rethinking of the collection, spanning 30mm, 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm cases across some twenty new references. It's the second significant collection update Longines has made in 2026, following the successful and much-in-demand Hydroconquest refresh announced in March. All twenty references share the same core design language. Cases are stainless steel throughout. The barleycorn dial texture runs across the line, though the 30mm and 34mm models offer silver barleycorn only, and offer a two-tone option with yellow or rose gold-capped bezels and matching crowns. While the 39mm and 41mm expand to include blue barleycorn options. The 41mm also adds a variant with Eastern Arabic numerals, which is not offered in any other size. All models display hours, minutes, and seconds centrally, with a date aperture at 3 o'clock. The 30mm references are powered by the Caliber L592.5, a self-winding movement with a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of up to 45 hours. The 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm models all use the Caliber L888.5—also self-winding, also silicon balance spring—with a power reserve of up to 72 hours. Both are exclusive Longines calibers. Across all sizes, watches are offered on stainless steel bracelets with newly designed sho...

First Look - The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch Monochrome
Jun 9, 2026

First Look - The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch

Named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, home to the city’s Museum of Time, the Yema Granvelle collection (2025) embraced a more architectural and elegant approach, stepping away from the brand’s familiar world of dive watches and tool-oriented sports models, and offering a model with a distinctive cushion-shaped case and powered by one of […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Jun 9, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...

eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen Worn & Wound
Jun 5, 2026

eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Manually Wound Seiko Going to start off this week with a simple yet brilliant vintage Seiko. I’ve had a couple of these over the years, and it’s a great looking and reliable model. The steel case is around 36mm if I recall correctly, and this one is in excellent, unpolished shape. Classic round case with nice strong lugs. The dial is a bold blue, with a white bullseye ring and applied steel markers. Steel dauphine hands and no date give this a sharp, unique look that isn’t too flashy. The watch comes on the correct original Seiko beads of rice bracelet, which is so comfortable and great looking to boot. This example dates to April 1974. No movement pictures but the seller states it runs well, and my experience with these is that the movements are quite robust, like most Seikos. View auction here Vintage Waltham  Next up is a nice vintage Waltham sporty/dress watch. The 34mm steel case looks sharp and unpolished, with stylish thin lugs. The classic silver dial is super clean, with nice applied steel thin arrow markers. It has steel dauphine hands with lume lines in them, and the second hand has a nice red arrow tip to help it stand out. No pesky date window to mar the peac...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Hodinkee
Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12

What We Know TAG Heuer has said this is the year of the chronograph. In reality, for the storied brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds, that means it's the year of the Monaco. With a series of new releases for 2026, including updated versions of the core Monaco collection with an in-house chronograph movement and updated titanium case, as well as tweaked dial design and, most significantly, the innovative and bar-raising movement tech of the new Evergraf, TAG has leaned into the square-shaped timepiece that debuted back in 1969 and affirmed its position as the brand's flagship and iconic model.  So for the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026 this weekend, it shouldn't be a surprise that TAG is unveiling a new limited edition version of the Monaco to mark the occasion. The surprise here is that it isn't a chronograph. Rather, it's a time-only jump hour, utilizing the noted Spin Time movement from fellow LVMH property La Fabrique du Temps. It's called the TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, and it is certainly a unique and unprecedented interpretation of the mighty Monaco.  Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the brushed case is made of grade 5 titanium, with the crown on the right rather than the left, which is now obligatory on the Monaco chronograph. It features a sapphire crystal on both sides, meaning the skeletonized case is effectively transparent outside of the dial architecture at the center.  The design inspiration here is a 12-cylinder combustion motor, and the ...

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter Hodinkee
Jun 5, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter

June's upon us, everyone, and while technically it's still spring, let's all agree to go ahead and round up to summer right now. You're salivating for beach time, or checking the market for pointers about what to do regarding the SpaceX IPO, or you couldn't care about either, and your full attention is on what seems likely to be a wildly excellent NBA finals. Regardless of where your attention's generally pointed, let's look at some watches together before you're whisked off to full weekend mode. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Universal Geneve Super went for a mere €550, the Movado for CHF 2,600, the Rotary Compressor for £350, while the Rolex Submariner Ref 16800 somehow sold for only $60,000 HKD ($7,655). The Louis Vuitton Monterey II also sold. Strays Photo courtesy FauveParis. No-name skin divers will always get under my skin, and this week there's this sweet-looking Allaine. Or are you after an overwhelmingly 1980s quartz perpetual calendar from Corum? As you wish. How about an extraordinarily clean manual-wind Seamaster dress watch? Get it. Someone, please bid on this and *also* pay once you've won: this Autavia has popped up thrice over the last two months, and certainly one of you has a soft spot for modular chronograph movements that'll lead your favorite watchmaker to curse you, right? A Heuer triple calendar in 14k gold, perhaps? Ta da. A fantastic Jaeger-LeCoultre? Have at it. Finally, I don't know if this Omega Speedmaster 145.022 is actually NOS, but ...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026] Hodinkee
Jun 3, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]

Last week, we brought back the second edition of what will start to become a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Watches of Switzerland SoHo was once again the venue, and Editor-in-Chief James Stacey hosted a very fun evening. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of June. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Patek Philippe 5940J. Zenith Sporto. Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36. Casio G-Shock x Hender Scheme DW-5900UD-1. Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5180/1R-001 18K Skeleton. C by Romain Gauthier and a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in White Gold.  Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Rolex Land-Dweller 36 A nice variety of local beverages were on offer from Grotta. Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A. Tudor Black Bay 58 and a Rolex-GMT Master II "Batman". Timex Ironman, Tudor Pelagos, Breitling Aerospace. Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726A. Dennison Dual Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface, Univeral Genève FS, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sinn T50. Hodinkee's Editor-in-Chief James Stacey serving pizza and talking watches.  Rolex Oyster Perpetual.  Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V. Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570. Hodinkee's TanTan Wang and Pedro Vidal. Thanks to Upside Pizza for the pizza. Rolex Submariner, Jaeger-L...

Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jun 2, 2026

Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026

Oris has a habit of saving its strangest ideas for one watch a year. The Hölstein Edition started in 2020 as an annual limited release tied to the brand's June 1 birthday, and it has always leaned into playful reinterpretation. This year the company turned to the Artelier, the dress collection it relaunched a few months ago with mid-century-inspired dials. The result is the Hölstein Edition 2026, a 250-piece run with a few changes that go deeper than the finish.

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmidt And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties Hodinkee
Jun 2, 2026

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmidt And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties

It's become a Watches & Wonders tradition: Ben Clymer sits down with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmidt to walk through the brand's latest releases from this year's show. This year, that means the two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. Schmidt walks through each, and the conversation touches on a broader thread running through Lange's recent work—a push toward smaller, more wearable proportions, following last year's 1815 in 34mm. On the 36mm Saxonias, Schmidt explains the thinking: "The intention was always to go as small as possible, but there were two elements that we wouldn't sacrifice to get smaller or thinner. One is legibility, and the other is robustness." 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar The Lange 1 updates are subtle but deliberate—"small changes, but important changes," as Schmidt puts it. The two discuss what those differences actually are and how they add up, with Schmidt drawing on the brand's long view: "We've learned a lot in the last 20 years about case sizes and how to make watches sit comfortably on the wrist." Schmidt also shares some insight into the biggest challenge the team faced on the dial. For the full video, click here.

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmid And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties Hodinkee
Jun 2, 2026

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmid And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties

It's become a Watches & Wonders tradition: Ben Clymer sits down with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid to walk through the brand's latest releases from this year's show. This year, that means the two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. Schmid walks through each, and the conversation touches on a broader thread running through Lange's recent work—a push toward smaller, more wearable proportions, following last year's 1815 in 34mm. On the 36mm Saxonias, Schmid explains the thinking: "The intention was always to go as small as possible, but there were two elements that we wouldn't sacrifice to get smaller or thinner. One is legibility, and the other is robustness." 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar The Lange 1 updates are subtle but deliberate—"small changes, but important changes," as Schmid puts it. The two discuss what those differences actually are and how they add up, with Schmid drawing on the brand's long view: "We've learned a lot in the last 20 years about case sizes and how to make watches sit comfortably on the wrist." Schmid also shares some insight into the biggest challenge the team faced on the dial. For the full video, click here.

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 1, 2026

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph

H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series Fratello
May 31, 2026

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series

Jaeger-LeCoultre builds on last year’s smash-hit Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” in 18K pink gold with five new models. The simple yet clever addition of an 18K pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet renewed interest in this classic design. By pairing the case and dial with a matching metal bracelet, the Reverso regained its original essence. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series to read the full article.

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches Fratello
May 27, 2026

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches

It is easy to get lost in the intricacies of extremely complicated watches when exploring the creations of our beloved Haute Horlogers. Sometimes, though, you just want that level of quality and refinement applied to simpler things. Maybe you have a taste for uncomplicated base models, but you appreciate the rarity and craft of Haute […] Visit Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre SJX Watches
May 26, 2026

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre

The most talked-about release from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) at Watches & Wonders was the refreshed Master Control collection, which debuted on a surprising integrated bracelet. Available with or without perpetual calendar or power reserve complications, the Master Control Chronometre is powered by the latest version of the brand’s long-running cal. 899, which is now certified by both COSC and a new internal standard called the High Performance Guarantee (HPG). Initial thoughts Since the Master Control Chronometre debuted at Watches & Wonders, I have been asked multiple times whether it is a dress watch or a sport watch. Setting aside the issue of the false dichotomy that exists between these categories, the Master Control Chronometre presents itself primarily as a dress watch on a bracelet. While the bracelet’s angular facets evoke those of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the staid Master Control dial is what defines the look. The simple sunray finish and slim hands — not to mention the lack of any lume — firmly root the Master Control Chronometre in the dress watch category. The soft blue and brown dials are each attractive in their own right, with colour-matched date wheels to avoid any harsh transitions. While the text is arguably superfluous, the ‘Chronometre’ label is more interesting than the typical ‘Automatique’ text that mars most Master Control dials. In terms of the value proposition, it’s a tale of two metals. The stainless steel model isn’t...

Comments 2

  1. Anonymous
    the whole point of a dress watch is that it disappears on your wrist. precious metal cases, minimal dial, two hands. that's the formula.
    1. Anonymous replying to Anonymous
      totally agree on the invisibility factor, but i'd push back on "two hands only." a good three-hander with a clean dial still disappears just fine. it's really about restraint, not the hand count.

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