Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: King Frederik X Of Denmark Takes The Throne Wearing An Omega Seamaster 300M On A NATO
Forget the "rules" of what counts as a dress watch. When you're the King, you can wear what you like.
Dress Watches · Page 48
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Classic Zodiac Sports Watch, an Affordable Seiko 5, and a Rare Favre-Leuba with the Full Kit
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Zodiac Aerospace GMT Starting this week off with a killer vintage Zodiac Aerospace GMT. Zodiac is definitely well known for their Sea Wolf divers, but the lesser-known Aerospace is a fantastic piece. It features a two-tone black and gray 24 hour acrylic bezel insert that is in great condition. The gloss black dial is crisp and clean, as are the steel stick hands. The GMT hand is painted red to stand out. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac symbol as it should be. The Zodiac caliber 75 automatic movement is clean and the seller states it currently runs well and keeps time. The watch comes on a cool vintage riveted oyster style bracelet that looks great with the watch even though it’s not original. View auction here Vintage 1953 Bulova Next up is a brilliant vintage Bulova dress watch with fancy lugs. The 27mm wide yellow gold fill case is excellent with no wearthrough that I can see in the pictures. The fancy lugs have a knotted look and are really unique and cool. The dial is the classic butler silver color with applied arrows and Arabic numerals and a sub-seconds at 6 o’clock. The dial looks original to me and is in excellent condition, paired with the original gold daup...
Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review
Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury” - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy
When Furlan Marri released their reference 2116-A, our editor Robin wrote, “the meca-quartz masterminds that rocked the watchmaking world go full-mechanical“. And indeed, not only did this automatic time-only watch make a good impression, but it also opened new horizons for the brand. Since its initial release, a salmon version has been presented, too. But […]
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve
Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938. The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...
Worn & Wound
Delma Announces an Affordable Swiss Made Tourbillon to Celebrate their 100th Anniversary
Delma is celebrating its Centennial Anniversary in 2024. Family owned and operated in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma watches has been in continuous production since its inception in 1924. To mark this tremendous milestone, they have created something quite special. Introducing the Delma 1924 Tourbillon. Yes, you read that correctly, a Tourbillon, limited to just 100 pieces. Historically, the Tourbillon complication has been reserved for ultra high-end watch brands to flex their horological muscles, while at the same time commanding equally high prices. In recent years, however, brands like Tag Heuer and Horage have brought these prices down to the realm of relative affordability. Delma wanted to do the same, while also making sure the movement was 100% Swiss. What is the big deal with Tourbillons? Simply put, the Tourbillon places the escapement and regulator within a rotating cage that revolves 360 degrees in 60 seconds, effectively negating any positional errors. Tourbillon calibers have a reputation for being rather delicate, and are often fitted to dress watches in precious metals. With the help of their Swiss supply partners, Delma has gone the extra mile to ensure these watches are shock resistant to 5000g and antimagnetic to 2000 gauss. This sporty 41mm hand wound watch is made of 316L stainless steel and is nearly completely brushed, except for the beveled edges lining the top of the case. There is a display back, to admire the movement and it is fitted to a matchin...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Neo-Vintage 40mm Rolex Sea-Dweller, A White Gold Lange 1, And A Vacheron Overseas Dual-Time
Plus a well-executed IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and a British Racing Green Breitling Bentley Premier.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Kieran Culkin Wearing An IWC Portugieser As He Flexes His New Emmy Award
A big watch on a big night for Mr. Culkin.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Accessible Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 20th Anniversary Edition
I won’t hide the reality: finding a genuinely elegant watch at a fair price isn’t the easiest of tasks. Dress watches, while often free of any complications, are not the most represented timepieces within the portfolios of accessible brands. Naturally, there are some candidates to consider, but finding an affordable dive watch is far easier. In […]
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates
Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]
Deployant
New: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon
Our Dragon watches coverage continues with the offering from IWC in the form of their popular Portugieser Chronograph. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: An Onyx Dial Rolex Day-Date (With Diamonds), A Full Gold 36mm Royal Oak, And A White Gold Cartier Tank Americaine On Bracelet
Plus a precious Jacquet Droz and a high-beat two-tone Zenith Chronomaster El Primero.
Monochrome
Introducing - IWC Welcomes the Year of the Dragon with a Burgundy-Toned Portugieser Chronograph
With watch brands across the board riding the Chinese New Year wave, there are no prizes for guessing which of the twelve animals represented in the Chinese Zodiac will be in the limelight this year. Admittedly one of the more attractive beasts to depict on a watch, the dragon replaces the rabbit of 2023 and […]
SJX Watches
Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial
Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch, but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...
Time+Tide
IWC celebrates the Year of the Dragon with a subtle yet handsome Portugieser Chronograph
Where other brands have gone overboard with dragons, IWC's crafted a tasteful piece that'll look good long after LNY.The post IWC celebrates the Year of the Dragon with a subtle yet handsome Portugieser Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G
Comprehensive review of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. With full analysis and competitive landscape.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon”
Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...
Quill & Pad
The Death of the Dress Watch: Is it Time to Write its Obituary?
As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, I feel that the time is soon approaching to write an obituary announcing the death of the dress watch. It is not that we didn't see this coming, nor is it an isolated event, but it still hurts.
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...
Hodinkee
Three On Three: Comparing In-House, Manually-Wound Dress Watches Under $20,000
The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.
Worn & Wound
Eat the Rich: How Watches Signify Class in Saltburn, The Menu, and More
The new class satire Saltburn features some prominent watch-shots-protagonist Ollie Quick (Barry Keoghan) wears a Casio, his friend Felix Catton (Jacob Elordi) can be seen sporting a Rolex Bubbleback, and Felix’s mother Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike) wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds, as Quick tricks his way into the family’s good graces before betraying them all. In films that seek to emphasize class differences, luxury goods like wristwatches are often easy visual stand-ins to show a difference between their worlds, a trick Saltburn is far from the first film to employ. From Saltburn, Barry Keoghan and Jacob Elordi wearing Casio and Rolex. Amazon Studios Ollie’s digital Casio fits in with the nice but inexpensive aesthetic of the social-climbing character, while Felix’s Rolex Bubbleback-reportedly Elordi’s own watch-speaks to the character’s inherited wealth and how he treats it as casually as the vintage timepiece he pairs with a Livestrong rubber bracelet. Felix’s mother, Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike), wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds befitting a socialite party girl who married into an old money family. At the end of the film, the link between class and watches is highlighted once more when a now-adult and wealthier Ollie is seen to have traded his Casio for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Other “eat-the-rich” films in recent years have used wristwatches similarly: Take, for another example, last year’s The Menu in which the ultra wealthy R...
SJX Watches
Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold
With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026
Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...
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