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Dress Watches · Page 58

2,285 articles · Page 58 of 96
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II SJX Watches
May 31, 2022

Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II

Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
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Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi SJX Watches
May 26, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi

A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...
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Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Limited Editions at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
May 23, 2022

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Limited Editions at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

We covered the independents and complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction thats happens on May 27 and 28, so now we look at highlights from a recent crowd favourite: A. Lange & Söhne. Revered for its high-quality movements and impeccable quality, the modern-day brand has only been in operation since 1994 but has managed to build a diverse body of work. A good selection is on offer in the auction, ranging from the mega complications to the simple (albeit not particularly affordable today). Here we round up six limited edition Lange watches in the sale, including a pair of rare Lange 1s to the second-most-complicated Lange ever made, the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Merite, along with a pair of Handwerkskunst editions. Bidder registration and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIVis available here. Lot 816: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Sincere edition  Since its debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has become an icon of the brand that remains relevant today. After almost three decades, the concept of the watch and its design essence remain intact. Only few other watches have attained such cult status, putting the Lange 1 alongside timepieces like the Calatrava and Royal Oak. The present example is a limited edition of only 100 pieces produced in 2003 for Singaporean retailer Sincere. The dial is extremely unusual as it features two different guilloche patterns, instead of the typical smooth opaline finish found on most Lange 1 watches. Even other Lange 1 models...
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Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold SJX Watches
May 23, 2022

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold

Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold. Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways. The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements. At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original. What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch. Retro diver Though inspired by th...
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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
May 18, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...
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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline” SJX Watches
May 15, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”

Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...
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Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain SJX Watches
May 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain

A modern-day specialty of Seiko, artisanal crafts such as enamel and porcelain are found in several of the brand’s collections across the price spectrum, although they are perhaps most associated with Seiko’s line of affordable, mechanical dress watches, the Presage. While past Presage offerings with artisanal dials were typically paired with simple complications such as a power reserve indicator or date, the latest arrival keeps the dial clean. The Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain is made up of a pair of time-only wristwatches, the SPB239 with a white dial and the SPB319 with a light blue dial.  The SPB239 is accompanied with a metal bracelet Initial thoughts The latest Presage demonstrates a progressive evolution in the watchmaker’s aesthetics. Traditionally its automatic three-handers have always had a date, but the date window usually looked out of place. That was especially so for the artisanal dials, where date distracts from the beautiful, hand-made dials. In short, the fact the new Presage moves away from the date is a good thing. Also notable is the gently sunken dial. It’s executed almost seamlessly with a clean, gentle transition between the two levels. This contrasts with past Presage models that had complications, resulting in sunken indicators. In fact, the porcelain dial brings to mind another time-only watch with an enamel dial, the Breguet Classique 7147, which has an elegantly sunken seconds. The only thing I would change about ...
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Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “Gold Flux” Dial SJX Watches
May 12, 2022

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “Gold Flux” Dial

Launched in 2021, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was one of the simpler models in last year’s lineup but easily appealing. It is the first Lange 1 to have a dial made of aventurine glass, or “gold flux” as Lange labels it, a material rarely found on the brand’s watches but always popular when it makes an appearance. Conceived as a mens’ watch in 1998 – the average dress watch was still about 35 mm then – the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a feminine watch. It’s basically the Lange 1 for ladies and the base model for a variety of female watches, often in pastel colours accented with mother-of-pearl or diamonds. The new Little Lange 1 continues the theme with its sparkly dial, but it stands apart from recent models in several ways; it feels different, perhaps even masculine. We take a close look at the Little Lange 1 to weight its appeal. Initial thoughts Thanks to off-centred yet logical displays, the Lange 1 is one of the most distinctive offerings from the German watchmaker. And the starry, aventurine glass dial, along with the moon phase, create a charming, slightly whimsical appeal that isn’t present on the standard models, which are formal and serious looking. Despite the shimmering, reflective dial, the new model is understated on the wrist, thanks to its dark colours and white metal case. These tone down the sparkle of the dial, which comes from the metallic inclusions in the glass. More appealing but equally understated are the star-shaped ...
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English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...
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Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...
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The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship

The Atelier Wen Perception is a phenomenal example of a brand owner with a specific vision who refused to cut a single corner in the execution of their watch. This year, Cartier released a new version of the Tank Chinoise that pays tribute to Chinese architecture. But that same sentiment means significantly more coming from … ContinuedThe post The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2022

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance

You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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VIDEO: Cartier plays their greatest hits album along with a few new surprises… Time+Tide
Apr 3, 2022

VIDEO: Cartier plays their greatest hits album along with a few new surprises…

The Cartier Tank really needs no introduction, it is one of the few pieces that truly deserves icon status. But this year’s novelties from the Parisian powerhouse served up some worthy pieces that continue Cartier’s hot streak over the last couple of years. New additions to the Must and Pasha collections got Zach and Ricardo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Cartier plays their greatest hits album along with a few new surprises… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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