Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre: The Reverso Stories Exhibition - now in Singapore
To mark 90 years since the birth of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a boutique exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.
Dress Watches · Page 66
Deployant
Time+Tide
OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts…
I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition
While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca
Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 collection (#10)
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best on the basis of online traffic. At number 11, it’s the Cartier Tank Must Collection… While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 collection (#10) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11)
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 11, it’s the Cartier Tank Must Collection… The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119
The arrival of the next-generation Calatrava.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines DolceVita collection delivers statuesque dress watches at very keen prices
Longines really lives and breathes through its heritage models, with countless watches having been reissued, updated, and ultimately honoured through modern reinterpretations of their vintage counterparts. The 1920s and ’30s were a booming time for many industries, but it was perhaps one of the most pivotal points in history for the development of the wristwatch. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines DolceVita collection delivers statuesque dress watches at very keen prices appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Cartier Tank: A Revolution for Our Times
The Cartier Tank, through all its varied forms, possesses an unshakable aura of cool that transcends gender, cultures and centuries.
SJX Watches
Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2021
Twenty-twenty one was a landmark year in watch collecting just because it was so unusual (which applies to the rest of the world as well). And it so happens that it was also the 10th year of the site, an occasion we marked with our maiden SJX editions, which were created in collaboration with Habring² and Kudoke. Over the decade we have done what we like best – with tweaks and refinements along the way – which is comprehensive stories on watches or topics that matter or are merely interesting. We published almost two stories of this type each week throughout 2021. We’ve narrowed down the list of memorable stories to a few that we think are especially worth revisiting for their insight or through provoking nature. Enjoy the read (which might take awhile so find a comfortable spot). And the photos were pretty good too Technical deep-dives The best of the year’s reviews were detailed than ever, going beyond close-up photos to include illustrations that explain intriguing mechanics. One such story was the in-depth examination of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS written by Richard Lee and SJX, which details how the watch pursues chronometry with a traditional chain and fusee, but with a modern twist of complex going trains. The tourbillon within the FB RS We repeat the exercise with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119, an elegant watch that’s once again focused on chronometry, thanks to a movement constructed to delivery maximum energy with minimum thickness. Expla...
SJX Watches
Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021
A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...
Revolution
My 2021 Watch: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 is the classic timepiece that will outlast all the trends and his watch of the year, according to Revolution’s USA editor-in-chief, Bhanu Chopra.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal
Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...
![Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/habring2-erwin-star-sjx-loupe-this-1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]
An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...
Hodinkee
How They Made It: Meet The Woman Mastering The Masters for Jaeger-LeCoultre
How enameler Sophie Quenaon crafts the Reverso's hidden treasures.
Deployant
New: Piaget Altiplano Year of the Tiger grand feu dial by Anita Porchet
Piaget continues their Chinese Zodiac series for the Year of the Tiger, with a new métiers d'art piece with grand feu enamel cloisonné by Anita Porchet.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater - Two Faces, One Voice
An enduring classic of watch design meets a classic complication.
Time+Tide
Giving your dress watch a dressing down - four winning options for casual wear
I’m a big fan of dress watches. Much to my chagrin, they often come with the stigma that they can only be worn in certain situations. I stand firmly in the camp that dress watches can be enjoyed casually. Below are my picks for dress watches that look just as good dressed down as they … ContinuedThe post Giving your dress watch a dressing down – four winning options for casual wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour
When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: The 7 watch-collecting commandments of Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary
EDITOR’S NOTE: Imagine you could spent pretty much whatever you liked on watches. You had deep enough pockets to essentially ignore budgetary concerns and snap up virtually any new watch that you fancied. It’s a dream scenario for most watch lovers, but that’s the reality for Shark Tank investor Kevin O’Leary, thanks to his estimated … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The 7 watch-collecting commandments of Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock
When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Stéphane Belmont To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Patrimony Director will discuss the history of the Reverso.
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