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GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 13

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2025

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier

Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...

Introducing: The Dennison ALD Dual Time Collection Fratello
Sep 3, 2025

Introducing: The Dennison ALD Dual Time Collection

When Dennison revealed its ALD series in late 2024, we were initially skeptical. The ’70s-inspired minimalist watches with quartz movements seemed to capitalize on a burgeoning trend for similarly styled vintage pieces. Yet, in person, the moderately-sized Dennison ALD watches convinced all of us on the team. Stone or wooden dials at an attractive price […] Visit Introducing: The Dennison ALD Dual Time Collection to read the full article.

Orient Gilds the Retro World Map SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2025

Orient Gilds the Retro World Map

Orient celebrates its 75th anniversary with a limited edition World Map, inspired by a 1969 fan favourite and priced under US$400. Distinctly retro in style, the World Map features an unusual world time arrangement using a striking map and rotating bezel for global time zones. It’s well priced and well made, and a break from the brand’s usual staples, which tend to be affordable but plain. Initial Thoughts It seems 2025 is a year of many anniversaries: Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, and of course, Orient. While never the most prominent Japanese watch manufacturer, Orient has built up a strong back catalog over 75 years, which includes the World Map. That said, I’d have preferred a reissue of the more formal looking World Trip, though I imagine the brand is saving that for the up-market Orient Star line. Beyond the watch, it’s important to remember that while Orient is a relatively small brand, it’s part of Seiko Epson, the company behind the Spring Drive UFA that made headlines this year (though a distinct entity from Seiko Watch Corporation that markets and sells Seiko and Grand Seiko watches). For the brand’s 60th anniversary, Orient equipped the Orient Star Skeleton with Japan’s first (and only) silicon escapement. With that in mind, it’s worth keeping an eye on Orient this year, as the brand has more to offer than just a pretty face. Post War Travel Ban and Boom In the aftermath of the Second World War Japan was devastated and isolated. ...

Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Jot N Pop, Stirling Timepiece’s Jarvis GMT, and The Return of Iconic Designs From Tom Bihn and Giant Mouse Worn & Wound
Aug 30, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Jot N Pop, Stirling Timepiece’s Jarvis GMT, and The Return of Iconic Designs From Tom Bihn and Giant Mouse

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Stirling Timepieces. Check out the new Jarvis Diver GMT and a link to their website below. Notorious EDC and Big Idea Design Create the Jot N Pop Photo courtesy of Dave Svarte These days, collaboration is the name of the game. Whether it’s teaming up with a famous soda brand (looking at you Seiko and Jack Mason), or two EDC powerhouse brands creating something entirely different. When our team was at Blade Show this year, we got a sneak peak of the first Jot N Pop prototype and knew it was going to be something special.  According to Tom Medovich, “The Jot N’ Pop is what happens when you mash up Big Idea Design’s Pocket Pro with the Beer Bomb. A titanium pen that’s built to do whatever you throw at it, as long as whatever you throw at it is writing stuff down or opening bottles.”  Regardless of how they came up with this idea, we can’t think of a more perfect tool for staying hydrated and taking notes! Built upon the design of the Pocket Pro, the new Jot N Pop is entirely machined from Grade 5 titanium (no plastic parts!), with a pocket clip made from grade 4 Ti for spring tension. Arguably the mos...

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2025

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT

I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...

Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global Fratello
Aug 28, 2025

Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global

Horage is a brand that has never seemed content to sit still. Its watches often blur the line between experimental design and technical innovation, and the Lensman series has been one of the clearest examples of that. Now, the family grows with the Lensman 2 Global, a watch combining worldtimer and GMT functions. The company […] Visit Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global to read the full article.

Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Fratello
Aug 28, 2025

Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

One of the most interesting developments in the world of watches recently is the use of color. We have seen a drastic shift in overall color use, particularly on dials, over the past few years. The conservative world of watches predominantly likes its dials to be black, white, or dark blue. Add any shade of […] Visit Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer to read the full article.

The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch Fratello
Aug 27, 2025

The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch

With the Contrail GMT, Nodus delivered one of my favorite affordable GMT watches that is currently available. The Los Angeles brand showed that an awesome travel watch does not have to cost more than €1,000. On top of that, the quality and level of finishing of the Contrail is nothing short of impressive. Stating that […] Visit The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 26, 2025

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained

Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move WatchAdvice
Aug 22, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move

In this review, I take a closer look at the new TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin-Time, a watch that blends heritage with modern functionality. From its striking green dial to its versatile GMT design, this is a timepiece built for both everyday wear and global travel. What We Love The new Twin-Time design pays homage to the 1955 original while feeling distinctly modern. The green sunburst dial is stunning in person, offering both visual depth and excellent legibility for the GMT hand and time display. The H-link bracelet not only enhances the luxury aesthetic but also introduces an innovative, tool-free link removal system. What We Don’t The absence of Super-Luminova on the indices reduces nighttime readability. The bracelet lacks on-the-fly micro-adjustment, limiting quick comfort changes. The redesigned GMT hand, while modern, may not appeal to everyone’s taste. Overall Rating: 8.7 / 10 Value For Money: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Introduced during this year’s Watches & Wonders is the revamped TAG Heuer Carrera three-hander collection. As you would have seen by now, a total of six new Carrera models were released, with the collection taking on the same silhouette as the older Carrera Day-Date with changes that make the timepiece modern and impactful. The New TAG Heuer Carrera Takes A Victory Lap When this collection was released, our very own Mario covered each model, dubbing the collection ‘Victory’ due to TAG Heuer’s upgrad...

Introducing: The Micromilspec Pilot GMT Dualtimer And Milgraph White Watches Fratello
Aug 22, 2025

Introducing: The Micromilspec Pilot GMT Dualtimer And Milgraph White Watches

Micromilspec is a hardcore watch brand from Oslo, Norway. The watches from this young and dynamic brand are rough, rugged, and ready for almost everything you can throw at them. The Milgraph, for instance, flaunts its rugged military capabilities with a cool sense of Scandinavian style, especially now that there’s a new version with a […] Visit Introducing: The Micromilspec Pilot GMT Dualtimer And Milgraph White Watches to read the full article.

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 19, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe.  Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall.  Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...